So I'm sure this question has been asked before.

Why physically delete the EGR coolers when you can install block-off plates? Does it all come down to the EGR valve still being on the truck? Obviously block-off plates is a cheaper solution(not that a full delete kit is extremely expensive).

Can someone please just explain why or why not?

And why?...lol.

 

Here's one thread. Pros and Cons

 

Thanks Jim. That helped. My main concern now is...if I leave the EGR valve and coolers in place, but "disabled" via tune, and one day switch to a tune that uses the EGR system...my valve may be stuck due to the soot buildup and not cycling the valve.

ALSO...if I remove the EGR coolers and valve...will the higher boost numbers related to running a Spartan tuner create over-boosting situations where I'd need a wastegate? I don't drive my truck hard...and rarely see 30psi on my boost gauge. Maybe I'd be okay?

Basically I'm worried that I'm damned if I do and damned if I don't related to removing the EGR coolers and valve.

 

I don't think there is a significant advantage of removing/blocking, so I didn't. Time will tell if I made the right decision.

 

Thanks Jim. The more I think on it...removing them would probably be best. As longs as they're in there...they can technically still leak...and dump coolant in the #8 cylinder and hydro-lock the engine.

I think I need to get them out of there. Seems like there would definitely be some added peace of mind. I can always address the turbo bark(surging) later...IF I experience it.

 

I left my EGR coolers in place and installed block off plates......Few reasons I did this......it's easier.....this method leaves EGR coolers in place to support cross over pipe and prevent it from breaking due to vibration. In really cold weather..heat from coolant flowing through the EGR coolers prevents the EBP sensor from freezing.
With block off plates installed there's no way coolant can leak into the cylinder unless it is able to leak around block off plate......if cooler does start to leak it'll leak onto ground. If for whatever reason i have to return to stock for emissions testing....this is easily accomplished.
Now downfalls to doing this.....engine bay is still more cluttered with coolers in place...and stock intake elbow is still installed.

 

I'm subscribing! It's a complicated decision and the pro's and cons are like watching a cage fight on TV.

Takes forever to see a knockout and you just get a beating until someone gives up/fails.

Not sure which way to go on this but it is on my list of take care of now so I'm hinged on removal and redirecting the ebpv via plumbing.

Just want this right!

Denny

 

sxrfun...You really do make some good points man. The pros and cons you list are like watching 2 lobsters duke it out on the ocean floor. You're cheering for both...but only one will win.

It’s official like a referee with a whistle. Denny is the master of similes. One day I shall rival his skill. Until then...I'm out like a boner in sweat pants.

 

Touche, quit dickin around Pic and read my new thread. (no pun intended)

:')

 

I had to man. I don't think it'll be the last time either.

On the way.

 

What I freaking cluster.....

Just pull the motor and trans, strap them to a pallet and ship them to me - then you'll have nothing to complain about and thereby no reason to live, though something tells me you have lots of things to complain about.

 

Copper...I have no idea what this means.

 

Copper,

Honestly it would be cheaper to go off roading and have the time of my life trashing it and wind up in an oak on the right of way of a state highway with a football helmet on.
However, as in the 7.3 forum for mega years I just (until now) upgraded to a dual mbrship in our FORD family and I like it. I have a plethora of info to learn on this rig as it may very well be my last one. (And I want to enjoy it enjoying me)


Sharing knowledge (if there's any to grab and give) that's what this is and what lands me here.

This unit is a bonus to having a radiator stuffed up your ***, and having someone give accent on how to make it a tad easier really helps with the situation.

If your willing to help. I'll strap it down tonight, if you want to hear someone complain, your FTE badge is in the wrong forum.

Denny

 

So I'm new to the 6.4 and have been reading all I can to make sure my new to me 180K miles 08 survives my ownership.


Where I need help is the a couple of problems I am reading here relate to failures of the EGR not cycling, Coolant leaks, and a failure of the coolers hydro locking the #8 cylinder (so I've read)


With the block off kit the hydro lock goes away, if we remove the EGR it needs a tune and what else?


Does the cooler fail (when it's time) due to boost pressure back feeding into the coolant track? or is there an oil component to the cooler that puts coolant into the oil? Is there some diagram out there showing the plumbing of the EGR coolers.


Any details will be appreciated. Cheers, Mike

 

I use to tell people to remove it all including the EGR valve. One issue now is here local we have to get smogs every year. They use to just look under the trucks and make sure the cat and DPF where still installed. Now they actually open the hood and have a hand out with pictures to show them where the EGR coolers and valve are, without the equipment you fail, with that being said to remove the EGR valve you will need a EGR delete tune or you will get a CEL .

If you use block off plates you need to make sure you utilize a tune that cycles the EGR valve, if it docent the valve can stick causing you a problem at a later date.

If the EGR is removed all you will need is a EGR delete tune that being said there are some other thing to consider; boost levels, Exhaust back pressure and cylinder pressure.

The boost levels are also higher when you delete the EGR because the factory EGR helps work as a waste gate on the factory setup. Depending on the tune you run this can be an issue. Some people think more boost great, the issue is when back pressure starts exceeding a point two things can happen the turbo can overspeed and the back pressure can exceed the spring seat pressure of the exhaust valves and cylinder pressures can spike causing head gasket faliure.

When the turbo overspeeds the air becomes turbulent causing the air to super heat result higher EGTS, turbo damage and turbo failure. This is something to have to consider running some of the hot tunes out there for the 6.4. This can be addressed putting a waste gate or running a mild tune and making sure your exhaust back pressure stays under 70 psi absolute, if your using a pid moniter most moniters are have static baro added of 14.5 which means if you seeing 70 PSI your actual is 55.5.

If you exceed 70 absolute exhaust pressure your playing with fire because at that point the valves could be pushed open causing the piston to hit the valve. In addition high EBP can result in high cylinder pressure. This is a concern because while the head bolts are larger in a 6.4 compared to a 6.0 the 6.4 has limits. Once pressures get to high you can get head gasket failure.

As far as cooler failure its hit and miss on the type of maintenance your truck had from the previous owner. If the Nitrates where check like they should and the coolant was maintained the OEM coolers can last a long time. The most common fix for the coolers if your concerned and want to keep them is to install new EGR coolers from Bullet Proof diesel. There design is much better then the factory and they come with a lifetime warranty.

Last but not lease these trucks due have an oil cooler. The oil cooler can plug up and cause the oil to over heat, they usually leak externally but can leak eternally which is less common. You can monitor the water vs oil temp cruising on flat ground, the delta should not be more then 10 degrees between the two max, if it exceeds that chances are the oil cooler is due to be replaced. The only other area of concern as far as water getting into the oil is the front cover on the engine. The water pumps mounts to the front cover. The water pump on the 6.4 GPM nearly is about double that of a 6.0 to help cool the additional EGR cooler and engine requirements. If the coolant additive becomes weak in the coolant or coolant runs low it can cause cavitation between the water pump and front cover resulting in the front cover being eroded through. Over time this will cause the front cover to develop a pin hole resulting in coolant in the engine oil. With high milage its something to have checked.

This might be a little more info then you where asking but id rather you have too much information in the decision process then to little resulting in issues you didn't plan for