So some programmers "disable" the egr valve.

There is also a kit to "block off" the egr valve.

Will the stock egr be fine once it isnt being used?

what about this "EGR cooler" ? is the stock one fine, again, once it is disabled and the hot gases arent punishing it?

What does the EGR have to do with wastegate, is it integrated somehow?

I am 6.4 EGR dumb ....

Initially the DPF seemed like the major hurdle, but now it seems like the EGR systems is a battle all its own...

 

I haven't seen many who delete their EGR cooler. I'd recommend leaving it on and disabled if you are still under the factory warranty period. Replacing these coolers isn't a simple job, and showing up at the dealer with a broken motor without these attached may be a bad idea.

This engine does not use a wastegate.

 

My understanding is that excess boost is bled off thru the EGR. So you would need to account for that if doing a delete.

I think with the 6.4 it is a challenge and that is why people decide not to do the delete.

 

so by disabling it, does that expose the unit to less heat thus mitigate failure ?

 

yes, in "theory"

 

interesting...... so unless anyone says otherwise, i'm going to assume the disable will cure all evil....

ps does this disable also disable the egr cooler?

(i am not familiar with the plumbing )

 

There's no valve for the cooling system there, coolant always flows through the EGR cooler unless you physically remove it.

I believe it would disable the EGR valve, which would shut off the flow of exhaust gases through the coolers.

 

Thanks bud,

I think that most would agree that it's the heat that kills the cooler; and the exhaust that kills some of the mileage, so it seems that disabling it would really move those threats away from worry

 

That's what I've always figured. But remember that under warranty you stand nothing to loose if the cooler fails and blows it up. All you stand to loose is possibly some downtime, which isn't that common for an EGR failure, and some fuel.

Just remember that you stand to loose your warranty if something else goes. Is it worth the risk to gain some fuel economy? You're the only one that can answer that; for me it wasn't worth it.

Whatever makes you happy, I wish you the best of luck with it.

 

bump and subscribe

 

Alright so I guess we narrowed this down to a question of how reliable the EGR system can sit on the motor and do nothing without leaking etc.

Downtime, for me is not an option. This truck goes to the dealer for a fix, I go straight to a rental place and pay 1800$ per month to rent a regular cab 4x4 bagger out POS.

Yes, it does cost that much, I called.

 

The EGR valve needs to cycle to prevent it from sticking. If it’s DISABLED to long I think it would give you problems with soot buildup. The Spartan tune Disables it on the higher tunes but allows it to cycle at Idle decreasing the probability of this issue.

The Egr cooler's seem to have been pledged with problems since the 6.0, although the 6.4 doesn’t seem to have that problem as often, there still has been a few that have failed and cause the engine to hydro lock causing extensive engine damage.

Options for the EGR cooler's
Remove the EGR cooler's and install block outs.
Upgrade the coolers ( there is a company that sells Upgraded Egr cooler of a better design then the OEM for high performance applications).

Keep in mind your warranty is in harms way with any of these changes.

 

Hummmm, Let see, the EGR allow cooled exahust to enter the intake and burn the "unburnt gasses" before passing these out the tail pipe...

Hot gas introduc ed into the intake along with some degree of soot..... this sound like it would impact longevity in a big way. Plus there is a rather large intercooler to try to bring down intake air temps to make better power. The EGR add "Cooled Gasses" back into the system......

Disable the valve and soot buildups in the cooler..... this stuff when oxidized will eat thru just about anything after a while, how thick are the coolant tubes???

Over boost for those with a big foot will cause some real damage the EGR valve in ford wisdom acts as a pressure relief or blow off valve....


If your in to Green than all this stuff stays put and you have crap fuel mileage and short longevity, not a problem for most folks that trade every few years...... For other folks that are looking to make the investment last 250,000 or 500,000 miles There has got to be a better way.

If you remove this stuff and break the motor... you are screwed full stop.

Pay your money and take your chances.... My money is onthe blowoff valve and deleting the whole 9 yards. My 6.9 went 429,000 mile before I traded up to a 7.3 power stroke. The 1999 7.3 went 312,000 before trading up to a 6.0......... 120,000 bunch of problems with coolers head studs, egr, power( lack there of) and now I have a 6.4...... some of this "stuff" have wondered off, the sewer pipe helped power and mileage... more can be done. Dumping hot gas and soot int the intake sounds like a bad thing to do, I might leave the gate open and see if that stuff wanders off. If it all goes south Ferd is not going to wanrantee it anyway or at best it will be a **** fight.

Pay your money and make your choice, me I choose a 6.7 inline sans "Stuff" as the replacement.

Cheers.

 

I have a similar question about EGR removal/disable:

I replaced my EGR because it was stuck from so much soot. The new EGR reroutes the coolant lines so there aren't any going to the new EGR.

I want to get better mileage and my tuner (Superchips) came with an EGR delete tune. However, the guru at Superchips said he wouldn't tune it unless the EGR was removed.

I have the block off kit for the coolant lines that run to the old EGR. It makes sense to remove these since they don't do anything wit the new EGR installed.

Is there a block off kit where the EGR is mounted? Has anyone pulled their EGR and what were the results?

Thanks in advance!

 

subscribed.

From what Rudy has told me the block off stuff removes the Coolers (yes two) bu tthe issue is boost or in this case over boost. without a waste gate and the EGR removed there is no place to port an over boost. Suggested that I use the Tuner to set defuel limits to control amount of boost.

I am heading down to Rudy's for a Dyno day 5 March to have some custom trans tuning done and possibly a new Suncoast Torque Converter installed or at least ordered.

Cheers