Hi Guys. A few weeks ago I had no headlights and the amp gauge would go to full discharge when I'd turn them on, and then both worked the next day! Last night I only had one light but amp gauge read normal, today I have two lights again. What the.... is going on, lol. I guess a switch is in order?


How do I remove the switch from the dash and how do I remove the pull-out shaft/****? Any advice on this issue would great! Thanks. -Steve

 

What year is your truck?

Typically with the fifties headlight switches the **** and shaft gets pulled out before the nut holding the switch in gets removed. The trick is to pull the switch to the headlight position then push down on the spring loaded button on the switch and pull the **** the rest of the way out.

 

It's a '41 ton and a half. Anything different with those switches compared to the fifties models?

Steve

 

Pull the shaft out as far as it will go. Behind the dash use a small screwdriver to lever the lock tab to release the shaft, pull the shaft all the way out and unscrew the bezel to remove the switch. There is a small slot under the switch to insert the screwdriver. Most likely the wires will be soldered to the switch so you will have to follow them back to where they can be disconnected in order to remove the switch completely.

 

I did not know the wires are soldered on. I assumed they were screw and eyelets or blade-type connectors. I ordered a replacement switch from Mac's. Will the new one need to be soldered or are there other connectors on it?

I guess that's why there is a pigtail offered in the catalog as well seeing most are probably destroyed trying to separate them!

Thanks for the info on the removal of it. I hope to get it apart over the weekend.

Steve

 

I found it easier to just order the new pigtail. I used spade connectors instead of the globbed on solder that was there. That way if you put one on wrong, you can get it back off.

 

You soldered the pigtail on to the switch and put the spade connectors at the other end of the pigtail? How does the stock wiring come apart? Are there disconnects on the wires now or do you cut the wires and that's where the spade connectors come into play?


I have not looked under there yet so I don't know what the stock arrangement is. Just trying to figure out ahead of time what connectors, terminals, splices, etc. I'll need.


Thanks for the info.


Steve

 

Yes, there are disconnects on the wire harness and switch pigtail wires. Follow the switch wires back to where they can be disconnected. I've seen some replacement switches available with screw on lug terminals and some with the pigtail wiring pre-installed. The factory switches utilize solder type lugs. If you purchased the factory type switch you will need to solder on the pigtail wiring and connect them to the harness where they were disconnected.

 

Okay, now I know what I'm up against. Yes, I ordered the stock-type switch.


Thanks for clearing up the wiring picture I had in my head!


Steve

 

I could have been clearer, I guess. I meant spade connectors on the switch side of things.

 

No, it wasn't that you weren't clear- I did not realize any of it was soldered to start with. I envisioned removable connections all around.

I have no problem soldering any of it- but I forgot we were talking about a vehicle that was made before we had all the "modern" types of connections! We are spoiled with spade connectors, butt spices and heat shrink. And most switches nowadays come with a pigtail attached with some sort of plug. Heck, most folks nowadays don't even know about the above mentioned modern electrical fittings! Everything is "plug and play" as they say. Most have no ability to complete the "some assembly required" part of the instructions...

Steve

 

46fordwire0001.pdf 46fordwire0002.pdf

Just in case you need them.

 

Okay. Thanks!