Blue Smoke Fuel Side

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Jul 23, 2017 | 10:08 AM

#16

Charmalu

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Sep 2016

Posts: 1,519

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From: Nevada

Quote:

Originally Posted by hturner12

-he meant your timing is still retarded not you personally. We dont slam on people. You have to remember you are getting advise from gearheads.

In this age of being "Politikly Korect" maybe we should change the terminology to
"Mechanically Challenged".

Charlie

Jul 24, 2017 | 07:10 PM

#17

jusromaine

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ok update.

Got my Keys lol. and fired it up. and it reduced the smoke but its still there. on full throttle. I advanced it a lot and it was still there but the rattle was just crazy. but I did take a few videos.

I have two different videos.

Jul 24, 2017 | 08:14 PM

#18

Macrobb

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The sound at idle won't really tell you where you need to be - take it out for a drive.
See what gives you more power, then stick there. It shouldn't be extremely clattery, but there should be *some* clatter.

...Then REDUCE THE FUELING!!!!!

Jul 26, 2017 | 06:52 PM

#19

jusromaine

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Ok I think I may know were the blue smoke may be coming from. But not 100% I have ran it with the cdr not going in too the turbo and I have come to see oil on the in take of the turbo and the air line for the boost gauge the line broke but the fitting is still there "one this still need fixing lol" but have noticed like oil splater out of that little hold. So I'm thinking it's time for rebuild turbo.? Do you think that could be it? I mean it's a little low but it has not really moved any that I can tell.

Jul 26, 2017 | 07:41 PM

#20

Macrobb

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jusromaine

IDIs will burn engine oil cleanly. You could /run/ an IDI on straight motor oil if you wanted, though it might be a little hard to start and might smoke black more due to the higher carbon content.

I was burning a quart every 50 miles on one IDI, massive amounts getting pulled through the CDR as well*... and no blue/gray/white smoke. Yes, you could get a little black smoke if I floored it, but that was totally a matter of adjustment of the IP fuel screw... Because I adjusted it back and forth until I got what I was happy with.

(*I added a custom filter to the CDR air and pulled out 8 ounces(!) of oil out of the CDR air in a single 50 mile trip).

Jul 26, 2017 | 07:53 PM

#21

jusromaine

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Ok, So is that something to not worry about too much? I haven't been able to fully drive it yet still got to put new tires on. but nearly finished every thing else. This baby was in bad shape bald tires. They took the shift tube out. The trans had a bad seal. Bad fuel. No air filter.
So I have replaced the IP/Injectors/ Re-turn Fuel / shift tube/ trans gasket/

But only paid 400$ for it.

But I do have to ask, When I got the IP its for OEM Spec's. So in thought I shouldn't have to turn the fuel down. and shouldn't have blue smoke and not having black smoke mabe gray. but then looking at it with the sun going throu it looks blue. so I don't truly what color it is.
Just starting to puzzle.

Jul 26, 2017 | 07:59 PM

#22

Macrobb

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jusromaine

But I do have to ask, When I got the IP its for OEM Spec's. So in thought I shouldn't have to turn the fuel down. and shouldn't have blue smoke.
Just starting to puzzle.

There were at least a dozen OEM pump calibrations out there(go look up specific part numbers), depending on truck/van, year, 7.3 or 6.9, etc.
Which spec does it meet?

Also, are you using matching(brand new) injectors for whatever spec it meets?

Are you at the same altitude as that spec?

In any case, the point is simple. Adjust it to where it works right and call it good. Better to have a properly-working truck than one that smokes.

If you replace injectors in the future? Re-adjust it. Add a turbo? Re adjust it. Move somewhere else? Re adjust it.

Its not a big deal to turn the fuel screw up or down to meet your actual fuel requirements(aka no smoke/very light haze at high RPM WOT accelerating), and then you know your EGTs will stay in check and you'll get the best performance and life out of your truck.