Dash - Left side has no power
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 229
Likes: 3
From: St. Louis
Dash - Left side has no power
78 F250, 4x4, 400
I have a strange one here. The left side of my dash has no power. I have everything replaced to include gauges, circuit board, voltage regulator, etc. The oil pressure, left blinker, and fuel do nothing for some reason. Obviously a wire must be shorted or cut but perhaps it is something else.
Has anyone ever seen this issue?
I have a strange one here. The left side of my dash has no power. I have everything replaced to include gauges, circuit board, voltage regulator, etc. The oil pressure, left blinker, and fuel do nothing for some reason. Obviously a wire must be shorted or cut but perhaps it is something else.
Has anyone ever seen this issue?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
1976/78 F100/350: TWO different printed circuit boards, which one did you install?
D6TZ-10K843-B .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Amp & Oil Pressure GAUGES / Marked: D6TF-10C956-BA / Obsolete
1976/79 F100/350; 1976/91 Econoline; 1978/79 Bronco.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
D6TZ-10K843-C .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Amp & Oil WARNING LAMPS / Marked: D6TF-10C956-CA / Obsolete
1976/78 F100/350 & Econoline; 1978 Bronco.
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1975/79 F100/350; 1975/80 Econoline; 1978/79 Bronco:
The instrument cluster backs were made of a composition material that can TURN TO DUST before your very eyes!
1981: FoMoCo introduced hard plastic cluster backs for Econolines, these were also the "service part replacements" for the POS cluster backs.
There are TWO different types: E1PZ-10848-A with oil/amp gauges (1981/91 Econoline); E1PZ-10848-B with oil/amp warning lamps (1981/86 Econoline).
Both are obsolete, but Carpenter has both of them.
D6TZ-10K843-B .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Amp & Oil Pressure GAUGES / Marked: D6TF-10C956-BA / Obsolete
1976/79 F100/350; 1976/91 Econoline; 1978/79 Bronco.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
D6TZ-10K843-C .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Amp & Oil WARNING LAMPS / Marked: D6TF-10C956-CA / Obsolete
1976/78 F100/350 & Econoline; 1978 Bronco.
---------------------------------------------------
1975/79 F100/350; 1975/80 Econoline; 1978/79 Bronco:
The instrument cluster backs were made of a composition material that can TURN TO DUST before your very eyes!
1981: FoMoCo introduced hard plastic cluster backs for Econolines, these were also the "service part replacements" for the POS cluster backs.
There are TWO different types: E1PZ-10848-A with oil/amp gauges (1981/91 Econoline); E1PZ-10848-B with oil/amp warning lamps (1981/86 Econoline).
Both are obsolete, but Carpenter has both of them.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 229
Likes: 3
From: St. Louis
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
Maybe for some reason, some terminals on the cluster harness connector are not making contact with the traces on the IP PCB, where the connector plugs in.
If the pressure-bearing parts of the cluster around the light bulb holes will crumble, then the same thing could happen at the connector 'jack.'
If the pressure-bearing parts of the cluster around the light bulb holes will crumble, then the same thing could happen at the connector 'jack.'
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 114
Likes: 11
From: Mendocino county Califor
Maybe for some reason, some terminals on the cluster harness connector are not making contact with the traces on the IP PCB, where the connector plugs in.
If the pressure-bearing parts of the cluster around the light bulb holes will crumble, then the same thing could happen at the connector 'jack.'
If the pressure-bearing parts of the cluster around the light bulb holes will crumble, then the same thing could happen at the connector 'jack.'
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 229
Likes: 27
I would take a step back, and look at the wiring plug. The oil pressure gauge probably needs a power and a reading from the gauge. The turn signal and fuel gauge should be one wire to each. Left turn signal should be green/white. Fuel gauge should be orange. Also, make sure your grounds are good. If that side is not getting power, none of those instrument panel things will work.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 114
Likes: 11
From: Mendocino county Califor
I would take a step back, and look at the wiring plug. The oil pressure gauge probably needs a power and a reading from the gauge. The turn signal and fuel gauge should be one wire to each. Left turn signal should be green/white. Fuel gauge should be orange. Also, make sure your grounds are good. If that side is not getting power, none of those instrument panel things will work.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
I dont know of anyone that sells them, what is wrong with the ones you have?
If the tabs that hold it into the plastic is broken off then the only way I can think of a fix would be to find another plug with wire long enough to splice it into your harness.
Now you dont have to splice inthe whole plug just remove the 1 wire you need to replace and splice it into your harness.
If the plastic part is bad and need to change it mark down all the wire colors and where they go in the plug and remove each wire.
Note there are tools used to remove the spade part from plugs, dont try and use a small screw driver as you will mess up the spade.
Dave ----
If the tabs that hold it into the plastic is broken off then the only way I can think of a fix would be to find another plug with wire long enough to splice it into your harness.
Now you dont have to splice inthe whole plug just remove the 1 wire you need to replace and splice it into your harness.
If the plastic part is bad and need to change it mark down all the wire colors and where they go in the plug and remove each wire.
Note there are tools used to remove the spade part from plugs, dont try and use a small screw driver as you will mess up the spade.
Dave ----
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 114
Likes: 11
From: Mendocino county Califor
I dont know of anyone that sells them, what is wrong with the ones you have?
If the tabs that hold it into the plastic is broken off then the only way I can think of a fix would be to find another plug with wire long enough to splice it into your harness.
Now you dont have to splice inthe whole plug just remove the 1 wire you need to replace and splice it into your harness.
If the plastic part is bad and need to change it mark down all the wire colors and where they go in the plug and remove each wire.
Note there are tools used to remove the spade part from plugs, dont try and use a small screw driver as you will mess up the spade.
Dave ----
If the tabs that hold it into the plastic is broken off then the only way I can think of a fix would be to find another plug with wire long enough to splice it into your harness.
Now you dont have to splice inthe whole plug just remove the 1 wire you need to replace and splice it into your harness.
If the plastic part is bad and need to change it mark down all the wire colors and where they go in the plug and remove each wire.
Note there are tools used to remove the spade part from plugs, dont try and use a small screw driver as you will mess up the spade.
Dave ----
but I dont know enough about the connectors to know if gm used their own or of some person invented one style that all manufacturers use
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
If you have a junk yard near you, what I would do is locate an older Ford there which has that same style of metal terminals, and just cut all the wires off, leaving a few inches for pigtails. Then bring that connector home and remove the terminals with the same color wire as your bad ones, cut off the bad ones, and splice in the new ones and clip them into your connector block.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 114
Likes: 11
From: Mendocino county Califor
If you have a junk yard near you, what I would do is locate an older Ford there which has that same style of metal terminals, and just cut all the wires off, leaving a few inches for pigtails. Then bring that connector home and remove the terminals with the same color wire as your bad ones, cut off the bad ones, and splice in the new ones and clip them into your connector block.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 500
From: Kenai
I'm not certain where to source those ends, but they are available. I just got a wire harness from Centech and it has new ends for the instrument panel clip. I found the ends (I think) for the turn signal switch, as the TS switch I bought from Dennis carpenter had different length wires, and I want to correct that.
look at
clipsandfasteners.com
look at
clipsandfasteners.com
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 114
Likes: 11
From: Mendocino county Califor
I'm not certain where to source those ends, but they are available. I just got a wire harness from Centech and it has new ends for the instrument panel clip. I found the ends (I think) for the turn signal switch, as the TS switch I bought from Dennis carpenter had different length wires, and I want to correct that.
look at
clipsandfasteners.com
look at
clipsandfasteners.com
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
The wire terminals are available:
http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Pr...=D5AB-14474-FA
The plastic connector shell P/N is:
panel with warning lights: D3AZ-14489-C
Panel with gauges: D4ZZ-14489-B
http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Pr...=D5AB-14474-FA
The plastic connector shell P/N is:
panel with warning lights: D3AZ-14489-C
Panel with gauges: D4ZZ-14489-B