6.0 crank - no start
#1
6.0 crank - no start
I replaced my egr cooler a week ago, truck ran fine for 4 days. Went out to start 5th day, but it just cranked.
Scan-gauge reads:
IPR-84.7%
Sync-0
RPM-278
ICP-347
FICM-47.6 (even when cranking).
Oil pressure gauge shows good pressure while cranking.
I pulled out the IPR and replaced the screen, flushed spring/seat , replaced o-rings and reinstalled. There was very little debris on the screen though.
I have checked all connections and wire looms to the crank sensor, cam sensor and FICM.
It does seem odd that I lost syc and ipr pressure overnight. Could it be the PCM?
Scan-gauge reads:
IPR-84.7%
Sync-0
RPM-278
ICP-347
FICM-47.6 (even when cranking).
Oil pressure gauge shows good pressure while cranking.
I pulled out the IPR and replaced the screen, flushed spring/seat , replaced o-rings and reinstalled. There was very little debris on the screen though.
I have checked all connections and wire looms to the crank sensor, cam sensor and FICM.
It does seem odd that I lost syc and ipr pressure overnight. Could it be the PCM?
#2
#5
#6
I replaced my egr cooler a week ago, truck ran fine for 4 days. Went out to start 5th day, but it just cranked.
Scan-gauge reads:
IPR-84.7%. fully closed pressure regulator, trying to build pressure.
Sync-0
RPM-278
ICP-347 You need 550 plus
Oil pressure gauge shows good pressure while cranking.?
Scan-gauge reads:
IPR-84.7%. fully closed pressure regulator, trying to build pressure.
Sync-0
RPM-278
ICP-347 You need 550 plus
Oil pressure gauge shows good pressure while cranking.?
You've got a high pressure leak as noted above.
I would have to go back and think there's something relative to your oil cooler install, even though, that can't specifically be the issue because it's low pressure driven. Did you replace any injectors at the same time?
#7
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#9
Try pulling the ICP and starting the truck and see what it does. You probably have Standpipe and Dummy plug o ring issues. You could have a snap to connect fitting issue as well. The air test will help you "solve" where you are leaking at, but just as a general rule of thumb it's good just to replace the dummy plugs, standpipes and STC fitting if it's never been done before. Definitely do the air test though. You getting fuel in the fuel filter bowl by chance?
#10
Up and running!!
Thanks everyone for the help.
Here is what got me running:
I had cleaned the IPR valve, replaced the screen and o-rings. It looked brand new and the old screen was not ripped. But I had replaced the EGR cooler and oil cooler and every one who has posted help on the subject says that junk gets in the oil system....and they are right. I was so careful to keep things clean but apparently some dirt got in and made it past my screen on the IPR valve. I ordered all the parts to repair my hpop and dummy plugs just in case, but I replaced the IPR valve first and it fired right up.
One note though...it took a few minutes of the truck running before the Sync gauge showed a 1 symbol. I thought maybe I had a bad connection or wrong code programmed into the scan gauge because it was displaying a 0 symbol. I re-started the engine and the sync showed right up.
All is well now though. Also bought a new OEM IPR valve, but while I was waiting for it to arrive I put a $54.00 IPR valve in from Auto Parts Warehouse just to check to see if it was the problem. It is still in the truck and operating as it should. I will keep you posted if it fails, but for now I'm running it and keeping the Ford IPR valve in the glove box.
Here is what got me running:
I had cleaned the IPR valve, replaced the screen and o-rings. It looked brand new and the old screen was not ripped. But I had replaced the EGR cooler and oil cooler and every one who has posted help on the subject says that junk gets in the oil system....and they are right. I was so careful to keep things clean but apparently some dirt got in and made it past my screen on the IPR valve. I ordered all the parts to repair my hpop and dummy plugs just in case, but I replaced the IPR valve first and it fired right up.
One note though...it took a few minutes of the truck running before the Sync gauge showed a 1 symbol. I thought maybe I had a bad connection or wrong code programmed into the scan gauge because it was displaying a 0 symbol. I re-started the engine and the sync showed right up.
All is well now though. Also bought a new OEM IPR valve, but while I was waiting for it to arrive I put a $54.00 IPR valve in from Auto Parts Warehouse just to check to see if it was the problem. It is still in the truck and operating as it should. I will keep you posted if it fails, but for now I'm running it and keeping the Ford IPR valve in the glove box.
#11
Glad you got it resolved. It is hard to tell someone over the internet to buy an expensive new part when they have already pulled/inspected/cleaned it.
Glad to hear a $54 part is working. At a minimum, it can be a good troubleshooting option - even if a person didn't want a cheap part as a permanent solution!
Glad to hear a $54 part is working. At a minimum, it can be a good troubleshooting option - even if a person didn't want a cheap part as a permanent solution!
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