Cruise control light won't come on when the ON switch is depressed, and won't set at speed.

I ran the diagnostic test. The light came on initially to indicate it was in the test mode, did not flash 5 times to indicate bad solenoid, flached once when ON was pressed, but did nothing when the next swinch was pressed on the right side, Both switch lights come on when the headlights are on.

I replaced the cruise control deactivation switch. Brake fluid drained out. Put in the new switch that came with a jumper so the connectors will match up. Horn works with engine running. Main fuse not blown (trip computer works).

I guess my 2 possibilities are blown fuse on the recall harness and bad switch on the right side.

The easiest fix is the blown fuse on the recall harness. How do I check this?

 

There is a water resistant inline fuseholder in the recall harness. 2 amp fuse was not blown. Everything looked corroded. I cleaned it up the best I could and replaced the fuse. Both of my test lights are broken, but I intend to verify that the circuit is hot when I get another light. It is supposed to be hot all the time.

Once I do that, I'm at a loss as to where to go from here.

 

You need diagrams?

 

 

 

 

I can post the pinpoint tests if you know which one you want.

 

WOW! I'm going to have to digest this first. Thanks!

 

One bad ground can throw the whole system off. Check the grounds first. You can do this visually, but it is best to do it with a multi-meter from the plug.

 

Nicmike nice work I am having same issue as jspringator. I just haven't started trying to work on it.. Judt following along as he goes so I know what to do. Other issues for me right now are more important.

 

First the cruise quit, then it started throwing a 720 code. After having it at the mechanics for a week, I got it back. Same problem. I checked the negative battery clamp. The original clamp corroded away, so I installed an aftermarket terminal. I tightened one of the loose retraining strap bolts and the code went away. I probably need to soldier the wires into a lug for a permanent connection. It would be easier to tighten the strap, locktite blue it, and flow soldier around the connection points.

The corroded negative clamp cost me about $2,000 in COP replacements. You would thng a Ford dealer wuld be astute enough to recognize the problem. was on vacation and hd no ither option. Chronic COP problems = bad grounds. I did add a parrallel ground between the frame and chassis.

I also had an issue with the switch under the brake pedal. It was replaced, and the cruise worked immediately after. If the brake light works is that switch OK?

 

Well. I got the cruise to work. The brake signal wire had been hacked into a brake controller.


by https://www.flickr.com/photos/44561435@N02/, on Flickr

What a mess. The plan is to reconnect the green wires. The red wire goes to the brake controller.

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/44561435@N02/, on Flickr

It works, at least for now. I have no idea what that lug is for; I couldn't pull it off.

I can't imagine anyone would leave a job like this. Looking around I found 2 or three wires that had been cut with no ends on them. I'm going to try solder these wires somehow, but it is not going to be easy.

The little green light comes on when the cruise is on. I seem to remember another light that came on when you turned the cruise on. If there is, it doesn't come on. That recollection could be from another car.

 

Only one light in our X. It comes on when set only.

 

I soldered the wires, taped them and now it doesn't work. I wonder if the soldering blew a fuse.

 

Ran a jumper between the end of the 2 wires and it works now. I guess I'll get a strand of wire and wrap it around the existing wire and solder the ends.