bypassing RABS
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
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From: W (BY GOD) V
You likely have (IMO) a sticking/cocked piston, brakes pads frozen (no free movement) and or incorrect line pressure.
The reference in Post #5 regarding RABS was excellent BTW. If you followed those instructions to the T, the RABS valve should not be causing this. I think it unlikely a RABS failure at the same exact time as a front brake service unless something in the hydraulics triggered it.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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In the original thread, you posted (1st and 6th post) this is your 2nd rebuilt caliper and it is still dragging, am I correct?
You likely have (IMO) a sticking/cocked piston, brakes pads frozen (no free movement) and or incorrect line pressure.
The reference in Post #5 regarding RABS was excellent BTW. If you followed those instructions to the T, the RABS valve should not be causing this. I think it unlikely a RABS failure at the same exact time as a front brake service unless something in the hydraulics triggered it.
You likely have (IMO) a sticking/cocked piston, brakes pads frozen (no free movement) and or incorrect line pressure.
The reference in Post #5 regarding RABS was excellent BTW. If you followed those instructions to the T, the RABS valve should not be causing this. I think it unlikely a RABS failure at the same exact time as a front brake service unless something in the hydraulics triggered it.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 193
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checked and bled the dragging caliper three times and no air and it is functioning properly.dropped it off at a reputable shop to diagnose.i highly doubt its the booster at this point but maybe.i have never been beat by a brake system before 
.i will update with the problem or a picture of the new truck if they cant find the problem
.i will update with the problem or a picture of the new truck if they cant find the problem
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 219
From: W (BY GOD) V
It seems the quality of rebuilt twin piston calipers is questionable no matter who the re-builder is. If the caliper piston(s) is frozen and/or the pads not lubricated properly, the there will be a hard brake pedal with little actual braking resulting. This will fool a MC test by clamping the brake hose(s), which is risky in itself (IMO).
A better MC test would be to remove the lines one at a time @ the MC and use a block-off fitting to test.
Testing the RABS Valve will be much easier with the use of a block-off fitting @ the MC rear brake line port after the MC has been found good.
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