2000 F250 big filter and big exhaust, no chip.

I have not seen anyone with these type of symptoms.

If I let the truck sit for an extended period, the colder it is the shorter the period, when I start it, I get a chug that seems like one or two of the cylinders is not firing. As the truck warms up the chugging will go away. It goes away a little faster if I drive the truck and then turn it off for a while. I have noticed that after it starts running "normal", that every now and then it will just miss a little, bit like one beat. If I plug it in no problem. Now come the questions I have that I haven't been able to find answers for. May not be searching the correct words. Since it is summer and pretty warm all the time it really doesn't happen.

1. Injectors, right?

2. If I get the injectors done I should get the GP's and wire bundles done also correct?

3. Rebuilt, remanufactured or new and what type? I've seen some post about size of injectors.

4. Will a mechanic replace with injectors I buy and bring in?

5. Is there any risk in driving it and waiting to fix it? Work will be taking me several hundred miles from home and don't really want to get stuck...

I know I have been a member for a while and don't have a lot of knowledge to pass on but I really do appreciate those of you that are diesel/mechanical inclined and help those of us that aren't.

Oh and does anyone in the Fort Worth area want to make some side money doing this job?

Thanks,

Steve

 

Most good diesel mechanics would prefer that you tell them the symptoms as you have told us and then let them try to figure out what the problem is. You might save a lot of money by doing that. Since you said the problem only happens when it is cold, there are glow plugs that start to wear out that can affect cold running, a glow plug controller same effect, bad power cable connections to the controller same effect.

You have most likely ruled out the injectors, but that is not for sure. Go talk to a few mechanics and listen to how logical and thoughtful they are. You need a troubleshooter who will listen to you and fix your problem without replacing unneeded parts.

It is a hard to give an opinion without any idea of year, mileage, improvements or repairs and how recently they have been done.

Larry

 

Larry,

Thanks for the reply. I did preface my questions by saying it's a 2000 bigger filter and exhaust. Should of said it's got 240,000 miles. No recent maintenance. I forgot to mention I took it to a mechanic who did a resistance check on the GPS. Found #1 bad. A couple others were close. I've always been lead to believe that glow plugs were just used when starting. He said that there was a test, I don't remember the name, that he could do when it's happening that would tell about the injectors. The big problem is that if I leave it overnight now, with the warm temperatures, that the problem won't show. Sorry haven't been sleeping well so forgot to add this stuff earlier.

 

The primary symptom of worm injector poppet valves/seats is a cold misfire that clears up as the engine warms.

 

You are right about glow plugs-they only function for about 2 minutes max after starting. I misunderstood the length of time your truck misfires.

 

Well what little reading I just did on this it sounds like replacing the injectors is the way to go.

So will a mechanic not let me bring injectors in for him to replace? Sounds like it would save me a lot of money if I did.

 

Here's the deal with that (coming from an automotive technician background):

Most places WILL NOT WARRANTY parts defects on customer-supplied parts so while labor may be covered on any failure not directly related to the parts installed, anything wrong with the parts or a failure caused by the parts will have to be covered by you. The parts mark-up helps the shop cover the cost of any warranty that may be incurred with a second tear-down or parts replacement in the case of a failure.

Would you go to Denny's with your own bacon, eggs, and bread and expect them to cook it for you just to save money?

I realize that repair work is expensive (I spent a long time in the business) and saving money is important. However, places have to keep the lights on.

 

I do understand what you are saying but the difference is buying them online for about $1200 from him is $2400 plus. That is a big difference.

Steve

 

100% mark-up is ludicrous. Who is supplying parts? 35% is typical for an off-the-street guy.

 

Steve, have you said where you are located yet? A lot of the FTE members here know of trusted shops all over the country and there may be one near you.

 

Replacing injectors is not a technical/hard job. If you can do a brake job you can do injectors. It's just time consuming. With the money you would save you could install a much better set of injectors.

 

Yep not hard at all. Lookup the instructions on Riffraff Diesel, swamps Diesel and other vendors to see what is involved. I did mine a few weeks ago. Removed on Friday night and installed on Saturday morning. To me the hardest part is putting the wires back on the glow plugs.

 

I have an '02 with similar symptoms and after a lot of reading I think it's related to the oil I'm using. I've found mention of "stiction" , or in actual terms carbon deposits gumming up the injectors. I've had CPS issues but this doesn't seem to be the same thing. I started using Rotella a while back and at first when I started having issues I thought of everything but oil sludge/deposits. Will be switching oils after this one as it's already paid for and waiting in the shop.

I found a good write up of a BUNCH of different oils tested, wear characteristics, thermal breakdown etc. Diesel oils didn't test very well as a whole. Found several snake oil sales efforts but one in particular I'm going to try. My next oil change I'm planning to add a pint of atf and run it until warm to help wash out / pick up the carbon. Drain, filter, etc. and add Archoil to the oil change. They offer a money back guarantee.

It's probably frowned on to put the link in so I'll copy and past a blurb from their site.

"PowerStroke Application
AR9100 fixes injectors in Ford PowerStroke 6.0L and 7.3L trucks and other HEUI Injection vehicles (Navistar T444E and VT365) by cleaning and lubricating stuck spool valves. Stiction is eliminated along with associated cold start problems including rough idling, cylinder misfires and loss of power and acceleration. We are so confident in these results we offer a 100% money back guarantee if our product does not eliminate HEUI injector stiction issues within 100 miles. One 16 oz bottle of AR9100 treats up to 16 quarts of engine oil and is sufficient for one PowerStroke treatment. For further information on AR9100’s PowerStroke 6.0 & 7.3L benefits, please access the PowerStroke FAQs and DieselPower Magazine article below."

 

Stiction is a problem the 6.0 suffers from but not the 7.3. Rotella is a quality product and i SERIOUSLY doubt it's the source of your problem. Would stay away from oil additives of any kind for a 7.3.
You should start a new thread with your symptoms, particulars about your truck , and what you've done so far.

 

The injectors in a 7.3 PSD don't have spool valves. Sounds like all hat, no cattle to me.