When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I recently purchased a 1947 Ford Heavy Duty with an 8BA flathead v8. I am planning on putting a 1937 cab on the frame that has been sitting in a sinkhole on the family property for the past 40+ years. I am also going to build a flatbed for the rear of the truck and decided that I want to swap out the current 2-speed rear end for a 5 ton rear end out of an 800 series military truck. I am also looking at picking up a 5 ton front end out of an 800 series truck and a 2.5 ton transfer case in order to switch the truck over from 2wd to 4wd. My biggest concern is with the steering. Is it possible to convert the steering on the '47 to a more modern type of steering or am I going to have to do some fabricating? I know that some fabricating will be involved but want to limit the actual amount needed to a minimum. Also has anyone else done this before? If they have pictures would be much appreciated.
Ambitious to say the least. Flatty rebuilds are $$$$ and almost every block will have cracks. Most CAN be fixed but a good builder will tell you to get a different one if it's cracked in the valve area. Also I realize where you live and the shortage of tin but I wouldn't even disturb a cab that far gone from it's slumber. With the kind of investment the rest of the truck is, find a solid cab out west for $1000 and spend another $1000 getting it shipped.
Cabs already been pulled out of the ground and just needs to be hauled out of the sinkhole and I want to use this cab because it belonged to my great uncle. Also not too concerned with the condition because I will be making the '47 into a mud truck
Are you seriously going to try to make a flat head turn those differentials? It took a Cummins 250 (I think) to turn them in the M800 series. Found it.
That would take some kind of magic gearing wouldn't it?
How much more different can it be for a flathead to turn an axle with 6.44 gears vs the current 2-speed rear end with 8.80 and 6.40 gears? I would think the biggest problem would be you can't put as much of a load underneath the truck because the truck wouldn't be geared for pulling the maximum amount. But I wouldn't really be using it to haul anything, more for show and a mud bog here and there. As for the motor it should put of roughly 120hp being a 255 Mercury block with Ford heads that bump up the compression. I'm not expecting to go fast just want to build something unique. If it doesn't work I'll try to find an 8v92 or a 12v71 and toss that in the truck and save the flathead for another project. Could always make a flathead powered late 80's one ton. Have those trucks in spades.
I had a pair of those axles once and remember they were unbelievably heavy. Add the weight of tires and wheels and it might be too much for the frame without some serious stiffening mods, especially if it will be bouncing through the mud. The flathead might work but it will be maxed out all the time and probably won't last very long. Interesting build to say the least.
So I pulled the heads off the motor today and looked inside, and the is water in the one cylinder and the heads are both cracked, so planning on rebuilding the motor and replacing the heads cause the block doesn't have any cracks in it as far as I can tell. Was wondering if anyone could see anything that I am missing.
Passenger side Drivers side
Hard to tell. I'll tell you it's a lot of work getting one like that unstuck. Can't get some of the pistons out without disassembly, can't disassemble some of the stuck pistons as you can't get to the rod nuts. Here's a trick I use and it's never failed me.
When I ran outa diesel I poured in some brake fluid (burns well) then some marvel mystrey oil and atf and anything else. The marshmallows were just a photo op for fun. I have a cabinet shop on ten acres of woods so if I need to roast something I have plenty of scrap lumber. If everything else in your build is sourced from other vehicles, you must be a masochist to use a seized up flattie for your motive force. I use them because they bolt right up, are original to my vehicles and I have a $#!+ ton of them around for parts. If that wasn't the case I'd be looking for something readily available and cheap to rebuild and produces a bunch of power to weight, and maybe takes a tranny that is often coupled to a transfer case.. Oh wait, sounds like a small block.
Thought I'd post this photo of a toyota fj60 very much like the Canadian diesel version I have. 3.4 liter 4 cyl NA, 5 spd, PS, PB, vacuum assist hydraulic clutch, 16" split rims, with a wheel to wheel width measurement within 3/8" of a 42-'47 jailbar truck. However I will need to lengthen the wb to 114". All I am trying to point out is that if one will think outside the box, there are chassis available that dont leave the wheels sticking way outside the body. Looks like some rough characters here. I'd want them on my side in a rumble.....
