Trouble installing new a/c compressor
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Trouble installing new a/c compressor
I got the new compressor bolted in. I got the new accumulator in. I got the new orifice filter in and the hose lines (one to the accumulator and the other to the firewall), of which the other ends come together and connected it to the compressor. Added PAG oil.
Then I read I need to rotate the compressor clutch about 20 times before attaching the vacuum pump. Unable to rotate by hand (too tight), so I purchased a tool of which did not even come with simple instructions.
Somehow was able to get it to rotate, but then OIL started coming out of where I attached the two hose line connection. Thought I must not have seated it flat against the compressor so removed the bolt and adjusted the hoses and rebolted to specified 15ft.lbs. Tried rotating compressor again, oil leaking again! Frustrated, it's all in such a cramped location, unable to clearly see what I'm doing much less see what the problem is. Any advice would be appreciated.
Then I read I need to rotate the compressor clutch about 20 times before attaching the vacuum pump. Unable to rotate by hand (too tight), so I purchased a tool of which did not even come with simple instructions.
Somehow was able to get it to rotate, but then OIL started coming out of where I attached the two hose line connection. Thought I must not have seated it flat against the compressor so removed the bolt and adjusted the hoses and rebolted to specified 15ft.lbs. Tried rotating compressor again, oil leaking again! Frustrated, it's all in such a cramped location, unable to clearly see what I'm doing much less see what the problem is. Any advice would be appreciated.
Fleet Mechanic
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Should be able to rotate compressor shaft via the bolt that holds the clutch plate on with a ratchet... maybe 8mm socket size.
Leak at compressor to Hose Manifold Assembly - The two O-Rings in place and not damaged? They need to stay in their grooves while you put the hose manifold assembly on. If they moved, and you even nicked one a tiny bit, then need new O-ring. IIRC, the hose manifold assembly has like a raised "collar" around each hole, to help it stay aligned with respect to the two holes, but you have to get it down and in place without dislodging the O-rings out of their shallow grooves on the compressor body. Then need to hold the manifold assembly "block" down nice and tight by hand as you tighten the fastener, so nothing moves.
Leak at compressor to Hose Manifold Assembly - The two O-Rings in place and not damaged? They need to stay in their grooves while you put the hose manifold assembly on. If they moved, and you even nicked one a tiny bit, then need new O-ring. IIRC, the hose manifold assembly has like a raised "collar" around each hole, to help it stay aligned with respect to the two holes, but you have to get it down and in place without dislodging the O-rings out of their shallow grooves on the compressor body. Then need to hold the manifold assembly "block" down nice and tight by hand as you tighten the fastener, so nothing moves.
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Definitely easier said than done. I can fit only one hand up from beneath to get the manifold assembly "block" in place. Coming in from the wheel well area to get the bolt in the hole. Using two extensions on a ratchet with a pivoting socket coming from above to screw it in....
All the hoses and lines and harnesses and frame metal in the way, should I have connected the assembly block to the compressor before bolting the compressor back in? Is there something else I can "unbolt" to gain more access?
Thanks for your reply.
All the hoses and lines and harnesses and frame metal in the way, should I have connected the assembly block to the compressor before bolting the compressor back in? Is there something else I can "unbolt" to gain more access?
Thanks for your reply.
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Unfortunately, I have no magic words to help. When Ford went to the modular engine family starting in the 1997 F-150, the A/C compressor went from up top where it was easy to get to, to stuffed way down low out of sight out of reach, in a "We hate everybody who works on A/C!" location.
IF you could position then bolt the manifold block on, with the compressor not bolted down, and still manage to get the compressor back into place without stressing hose connections, sure. With such low torque needed on the manifold block, it's not like the compressor is going to twist much, but you still have to hold on, and if there's no convenient place, like part of a bracket within reach to set it on/press it against, you have to hold up the weight of the compressor with one hand while you try to put O-Rings in, put block on, press and hold block down in position till fastened, etc. That don't sound easy neither!
I looked up in the 1997 shop manual to see if they had any wisdom on the modular engine position for A/C... no. They act like the engine is not in the truck and floating in space. No help.
IF you could position then bolt the manifold block on, with the compressor not bolted down, and still manage to get the compressor back into place without stressing hose connections, sure. With such low torque needed on the manifold block, it's not like the compressor is going to twist much, but you still have to hold on, and if there's no convenient place, like part of a bracket within reach to set it on/press it against, you have to hold up the weight of the compressor with one hand while you try to put O-Rings in, put block on, press and hold block down in position till fastened, etc. That don't sound easy neither!
I looked up in the 1997 shop manual to see if they had any wisdom on the modular engine position for A/C... no. They act like the engine is not in the truck and floating in space. No help.
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I came to realize that although I read about the need to rotate the compressor clutch, the missing detail was WHICH DIRECTION to rotate it. So I will add that detail myself.....
Always rotate in counterclockwise direction, otherwise the oil will be pushed out of a PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. This I mistook as oil leaking from the port connection.
So I had it connected correctly all along, just rotating the wrong way.
Have a vacuum on the system now, the rest should be smooth sailing.
Always rotate in counterclockwise direction, otherwise the oil will be pushed out of a PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. This I mistook as oil leaking from the port connection.
So I had it connected correctly all along, just rotating the wrong way.
Have a vacuum on the system now, the rest should be smooth sailing.
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That don't sound right at all!
I assume like all other vehicles, your 2004 uses the grooved side of the belt to drive the A/C compressor, right? And the engine crankshaft turns CW as viewed from the front. So the compressor's shaft will turn CW, not CCW, as viewed from the front.
Oil should never be coming out of the blow-off safety valve on the manifold... they don't open till something like over 500 PSI!
I assume like all other vehicles, your 2004 uses the grooved side of the belt to drive the A/C compressor, right? And the engine crankshaft turns CW as viewed from the front. So the compressor's shaft will turn CW, not CCW, as viewed from the front.
Oil should never be coming out of the blow-off safety valve on the manifold... they don't open till something like over 500 PSI!
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