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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 02:27 PM
  #31  
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From: Spanaway
Just thinking .
Have a look at the high pressure when at the max usage.
Did you put a new orifice in it when you did the work?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 02:30 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Just thinking .
Have a look at the high pressure when at the max usage.
Did you put a new orifice in it when you did the work?
this is getting discouraging. Pressures are good max ac and all. However, ac is hot in the cab. Everything says should be cold in the cab. It wasn't. The vacuum valve on the coolant line isn't actuated so the valve is open. Vacuum line is plugged in. When I pull it off it doesn't feel like its sucking vacuum. Don't think its the pump though as it will shift vents no problem. Valve went bad all of a sudden? Vacuum leak? Would that stop the ac from being cold in cab? Would it cause the compressor to shut off?

and yes new orifice tube

oh and to add to it the compressor will no longer come on. Maybe thetes a major relay that controls all of this I knocked lose?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 03:12 PM
  #33  
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From: Spanaway
If your noting getting vacuum to the contrl you need to be
sure that you still have vacuum at the tank. I'll look and see
if there is a diag PDF for the vacuum system. There is some
line routing info in SECTION 412-00 Climate Control System - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 03:34 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
If your noting getting vacuum to the contrl you need to be
sure that you still have vacuum at the tank. I'll look and see
if there is a diag PDF for the vacuum system. There is some
line routing info in SECTION 412-00 Climate Control System - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.
ya I'm going through them now. The compressor doesnt turn on one does that valve close but the vents will change from face to defrost etc.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 04:20 PM
  #35  
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Alright so some good news dont know how but got the vacuum pump to run and the compressor came on so thats promising. The a.c. is still hot in the cab though. The line with the orifice tube in it gets ice cold but inside cab is warm I don't get it. The vacuum pump was definitely not running and the valve was not closed followed DTR video on troubleshooting it and it came on and closed the valve and the ac compressor also came on. I'm wondering if the evaporator is clogged? Maybe not allowing air flow? Sorry I kinda ask questions as they come I dont know how this system works much so I'm trying to make sense of it all. If the evaporator is clogged can I clean it? If so where? Or do I need to just replace it? Also I read the troubleshooting guide and it seems to be for the climate controlled trucks like with the digital display so Idk if mine will work the same.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 04:52 PM
  #36  
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I bought an evaporator and will install it next week. If anyone has any ideas let me know but for now I'm banking on the compressor being good and the rest of the system being new and working.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 06:19 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by VictorwithaC
I bought an evaporator and will install it next week. If anyone has any ideas let me know but for now I'm banking on the compressor being good and the rest of the system being new and working.
I'm no AC expert (far from it), but just from what you have posted: the system works well (now) as long as it is not in the MAX setting, is that correct?

But when in the Max (recirc. cabin air) setting is when the cab begins to warm?

If the evap was plugged (no air flow through it), you should never get cold air. So I'm thinking it has more to do with the air flow routing THROUGH the Evap. Not sure how the blend-door works, but I do recall another AC problem thread that it turns out some piece of material was blocking that door from functioning correctly...

On edit: here, I found this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/...nd-door-361491
 
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 06:35 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
I'm no AC expert (far from it), but just from what you have posted: the system works well (now) as long as it is not in the MAX setting, is that correct?

But when in the Max (recirc. cabin air) setting is when the cab begins to warm?

If the evap was plugged (no air flow through it), you should never get cold air. So I'm thinking it has more to do with the air flow routing THROUGH the Evap. Not sure how the blend-door works, but I do recall another AC problem thread that it turns out some piece of material was blocking that door from functioning correctly...

On edit: here, I found this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/...nd-door-361491
that's what he said but its the same on both not just max ac. Sorry about that. But I am gonna look at everything when we do the evap to ensure all passages are clear.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 08:23 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
I'm no AC expert (far from it), but just from what you have posted: the system works well (now) as long as it is not in the MAX setting, is that correct?

But when in the Max (recirc. cabin air) setting is when the cab begins to warm?

If the evap was plugged (no air flow through it), you should never get cold air. So I'm thinking it has more to do with the air flow routing THROUGH the Evap. Not sure how the blend-door works, but I do recall another AC problem thread that it turns out some piece of material was blocking that door from functioning correctly...

On edit: here, I found this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/...nd-door-361491
I just read that post and I wonder if that is part of my issue. When the blend door is closed on max ac should the heater core be completely blocked off? When I pulled the cover off the heater core under the dash you could feel the air rushing in but also over the hot heater core (this was when the valve wasnt working). My actuator works I watched it move but didnt think of the physical blend door.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 08:43 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by VictorwithaC
I just read that post and I wonder if that is part of my issue. When the blend door is closed on max ac should the heater core be completely blocked off? When I pulled the cover off the heater core under the dash you could feel the air rushing in but also over the hot heater core (this was when the valve wasnt working). My actuator works I watched it move but didnt think of the physical blend door.
Based on the "lite" reading I've done on your issue, I personally would not be chasing after another heat exchanger as the problem; just based on how many folks have had issues with the air flow in our, and even later, series of Ford trucks...

And I will confess I didn't look at even one of Sean's most appreciated PDFs...

I am guessing here, based on the posts and threads one comes up with searching on your symptoms...

Good luck,
Scott
 
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 08:51 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
Based on the "lite" reading I've done on your issue, I personally would not be chasing after another heat exchanger as the problem; just based on how many folks have had issues with the air flow in our, and even later, series of Ford trucks...

And I will confess I didn't look at even one of Sean's most appreciated PDFs...

I am guessing here, based on the posts and threads one comes up with searching on your symptoms...

Good luck,
Scott
I did look through the pdfs but unfortunately it seems they continuously refer to the newer style controller. At least the troubleshooting. I'm gonna replace the condensor as its not a big job and I get the ac emptied and charged for free now so might as well. But I'm gonna look now at the blend door too as I think with the heater core cover off under the dash I may be able to touch it and feel it move or not move.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2017 | 03:43 AM
  #42  
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From: Spanaway
I just got in the house a bit ago. I had a project that bit me in the ***.


Condenser is the one in the front of the radiator.
The evaporator is the one in the heater box.

What one are you doing? If your going to open
the system again did you pick up an orifice tube?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2017 | 05:53 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
I just got in the house a bit ago. I had a project that bit me in the ***.


Condenser is the one in the front of the radiator.
The evaporator is the one in the heater box.

What one are you doing? If your going to open
the system again did you pick up an orifice tube?
I'm gonna do evap I already did condensor, orifice tube, and dryer.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2017 | 08:37 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
Sorry can't help you on pressure readings - your AC guy should know. If you replace the condenser, a friend told me always replace the receiver/drier whenever you replace other components in the system, as I think that is where it filters the refrigerant?

I don't think they are that expensive, but haven't checked for our trucks. Hope someone with more knowledge can step in here...

Scott
If changing the dryer then the orifice valve should also be changed. About 10 bucks.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2017 | 08:55 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 69cj
If changing the dryer then the orifice valve should also be changed. About 10 bucks.
I did. Changed dryer, condensor, and orifice tube. I'm waiting on the evaporator to change next.
 
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