Hi All,

Hoping to gain a bit more knowledge here. I seem to have screwed up big time on the last camping trip. I've placed this thread here because I have a question specific to the X (Mods please move if necessary). Here's what I have:

2003 6.0L X with stock receiver
2006 TT
10,000/1,000 Equalizer WD hitch

The X was loaded with 6 people (4 teenagers) and 2 dogs. All other weight was placed in the camper storage areas. After everything was loaded, the rear of the X was sagging a little bit. The rear wheel well was approximately 1.5" lower than the front wheel well for the first leg of the trip with the WD hitch set up. The trailer was level according to the eye (I did not put a level to it). Given that the trailer was level, I didn't modify my hitch in any way (by adding washers). On the second leg of the trip, the sag in the rear suspension seemed to get worse and handling while towing was not what I wanted it to be (a bit of sway and the ride was bouncy). So, before we set out again, I added a washer, got on some nice flat ground, and measured the wheel wells again with everyone in the car. The rear was about .5" lower than the front this time and the camper was level. The ride was much better (no sway or bouncing to speak of). Everything felt pretty solid. The bars however, were fairly difficult to put on when connecting the hitch. I did figure out after the fact that the overload springs are missing their stoppers. Additionally, before adding a washer, I noticed that the hitch paint was cracking and that I had actually expanded the receiver on the X. Not good. I believe based on measurement of the wheel wells front and back, trailer level, and trailer ball at the correct height for the TT that I have the WD hitch set up correctly in the first place. You can't tell from the pictures, but theres a good 1/16" play around all 4 sides between the receiver and the shank itself. I still have to put it on a flat table, but I also believe that my shank is twisted. So, two questions:

1. Am I missing something on the setup of the WD hitch?

2. I obviously need to replace my receiver in the near future. Will the F-250 of the same year range fit as a direct replacement?

Thanks in advance!!

 

Can you post pictures of the rest of the wd hitch and how it attaches to the camper frame?

Was the first leg was on the way to camp and the second was coming home? If so you may have had a few hundred pounds of water in different locations. (fresh moving to black and gray) Or if you were full of fresh on the way out and empty back.

 

1. Need more info.

2. No, only an Excursion hitch will fit.

 

No water in the camper (fresh/black/grey) in the camper at any time towing. Couple pictures of my hitch, but none on my camper. The bars sit on top of L brackets when fully connected. Found a picture online (side view) of one hooked up.

Thanks!

 

I used to own one of those hitches, worked great. A quick tip to help with finding the right adjustment, each washer is the same as moving the L bracket up or down one hole. You may still need to add or remove washers, but it makes it easier to figure out how many.

Not unusual to have some play between the shank and the receiver. Are you saying it has definitely opened up compared to the first tow? Could it just be some rust rubbed off?

As Mark mentioned, only an EX receiver will work. The frame angle is different on a 250/350. If your budget allows it, I can heartily recommend the Torklift replacement receiver.

If you are going by wheel well measurements for hitch setup, you need to do it a little different. First, measure the front and rear wheel wells without the trailer hitched at all. Drop the trailer on the ball and without the bars and measure again. Then with the trailer hooked up and the bars set, measure yet again. Ideally you want the front to be the same without the trailer as it is with the trailer and the bars. At a minimum, you want at least half of the change back. The rear is just going to sag however much it needs to based on the tongue weight. The important thing from a handling standpoint is to return the weight back to the front wheels.

With the bars set right, you want the trailer to be level or slightly nose down.

 

I'm currently towing with that same hitch.
I had noticed a crack developing in the weld between the cast ball mount section and the shank.
I found a used hitch to get enough parts for one complete hitch and just went thru the setup again.
Have you read thru the installation instructions on the Equalizer site?
One thing I see in the pics is you have more than the recommended max of 8 washers in the head.
Once 8 washers is reached the L brackets get moved to add tension.
I changed the rear springs in our Excur to stock F250 springs which helped support the tongue weight better.
Is your Excur 2wd or 4wd?
Do you have a rear anti-roll bar installed?
It won't help any with the weight distribution issues, but is a huge improvement in overall handling, especially when towing or higher center of gravity with 4wd.
What is the weight of your trailer and the tongue weight?
Ours is a 23' TH 7k.
If your trailer is getting close to 10k Equalizer recommends the 12k hitch.
There is a new style outside link plate I got with the used hitch which are a great improvement over the "box" plates providing a more solid anchoring of the L brackets.
The L brackets have the nylon jackets.
I tried various dry lubricants to stop the creaking, but hitch ball lube works well.
I raised the head one hole on the shank to level the trailer better, front is 1/2" lower than rear.
I have 8 washers and raised the L brackets one hole to get enough tension to get back to halfway on the front wheel well measurement.
The shank has always wobbled more than others so I tried a Stowaway hitch tightener which has worked very well so far.
The setup tows very well.

 

As the other current and past Equalizer WD hitch users have noted, your may be either under-sized or in need of further adjustments.
You never mentioned the trailer weight or tongue weight.
The EX does not have "helper" springs in stock form, I think that you are looking at your slapper style traction bars on the stock rear springs. They are only traction bars that will lift up and have their (missing) rubber snubbers contact the front of the main spring pack to limit rear axle wrap while under high torque situations. They DO NOT aid in any way with load carrying ability or capacity.
It is fairly common to have a wee bit of extra room around the shack while its in the receiver, there are very simple products (like the one shown) to help reduce any wiggle or rattle from that extra space.
As was said, the EX hitch is unique to the EX and a pickup truck hitch will not fit correctly, the receiver opening will be angled down about 20%. Someone here recently reported that the Econoline van hitches cross referenced with the EX but no further evidence or part numbers were offered. Both Curt and Torklift make replacement hitches for the EX, I have the same Torklift SuperHitch 20K as Eric and I too highly recommend it if your budget allows, it's a beast!

 

Since OP doesn't give the needed trailer weight or tounge weighs a reasonable estimation can be made.

Stock excursion rear spring rate is 420 lbs in.

Op states rear was sagged 1.5 below front and since the stock setup unloaded has the rear 1" above the front a reasonable guess is the back is compressed 2.5" on the first setup and 1.5" on the second.

420 x 2 x 2.5 = 2100 tongue weight on his first setup

420 x 2 x 1.5 = 1260 tounge weight second setup.

 

Thanks for this! I should go back a re-read my manual! I set this hitch up two years ago and I really should go back and set it up from scratch. I've been setting it up each time (or verifying it) based on the front being a little higher than the back (as opposed to returning it to it's original position).

As far as the play in the receiver, I'm fairly convinced that I've somehow stretched it. Which seems crazy to me. I'll post up a video of the play so everyone can see.

 

Thanks for the info! I'll take a look at the hitch tightener and make sure I have the most up to date L brackets.

I've not been through their website for instructions, but I did read the manual (2 years ago). Based on what y'all are saying, I clearly need to go back and set this up from scratch (especially when heading out on a long trip, loaded to the gills). The picture is deceiving, and I went and counted just to make sure, but I have 6 washers now and added a 7th on the second leg of the trip.

The trailer weight is approximately 4,770 (7,500 GVWR) and the tongue weight is 718 according to the specs. I admit I have not run it across the scale to verify this and I also admit I may have overloaded that a bit for the hitch I have. Tools and a spare tire up front in the camper may have done it.

I'll definitely be running it across the scale in the near future. And a new hitch may be in order with a higher capacity.

 

After re-reading the OG post I see the measurements were taken with passengers so those estimates would be tongue+cargo

Also, from the pics, I do not see evidence of the receiver being expanded but I do see the hole for the pin looks beat.

 

Thanks for this!

I've attached a crappy picture of what I'm calling the overload spring. I also have a rear sway bar (that I didn't install). I've looked at the referenced aftermarket hitches and I'm seriously considering them (just not sure what I'll do just yet). I know a guy (don't we all) that can cut out the existing receiver and replace it with a new piece. And I trust his welds, but I'm hesitant about modifying it. I've got a bit more thinking to do on that for sure. Iv'e got a friend that has the curt version on his Dmax and he absolutely loves it (and they're a bit cheaper).

 

Yes, the pin hole is beat to crap and is getting worse. As far as tongue weight, the 1260 number you reference seems plausible given what I've got up front in the camper storage. Spare tire for the camper, 22" toolbox full up, various wood blocks, etc.

At this point, I'm pretty convinced I was at a minimum over 1,000 pounds tongue weight and quite possibly may have ruined my shank. Good news is nothing is broken as far as welds on either the receiver or hitch (that I can see).

Clearly I need smacked up side the head because I know better.

 

That is the anti-wrap leaf not an overload. Replacement rubber snubbers are readily available.

 

Video of receiver play: