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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 03:30 PM
  #46  
R&T Babich's Avatar
R&T Babich
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
I'm wondering if the shank type weld washer can be installed without welding.
Drill the hole slightly undersized, put the washer in the freezer over night, heat up the receiver a bit and drive the shank washer into the hole.
I don't think there is much side-to-side or rotational force on the pin hole, just forward-backward.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 03:49 PM
  #47  
brandon_oma#692's Avatar
brandon_oma#692
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,787
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From: Northern Illinois
Originally Posted by R&T Babich
I'm wondering if the shank type weld washer can be installed without welding.
Drill the hole slightly undersized, put the washer in the freezer over night, heat up the receiver a bit and drive the shank washer into the hole.
I don't think there is much side-to-side or rotational force on the pin hole, just forward-backward.
I do not see that working at all. It would either get knocked out putting the pin in or going down the road. If you can't weld it you would be better off drilling out the holes for a larger pin. Drill the ball mount and receiver together so it all lines up. Bad part is now you need to drill out any ball mounts you want to use. You are modifying a "rated" towing product. (so is the weld washer route but....) Now that truck needs it's own ball mounts. no sharing with others.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 08:39 PM
  #48  
pennsylvaniabo's Avatar
pennsylvaniabo
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From: chambersburg, PA
Originally Posted by R&T Babich
But, if your receiver holes are wallowed out the receiver wall will not support the pin, only the washer.
A bent pin will only wallow out the hole if the bent part gets in the hole which will not happen as shown earlier by sliding a piece of 5/8" hose over the pin.
correct, mine had hardly seen a hitch but had it slightly and so i just did a washer, not a shanked one.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2017 | 11:04 AM
  #49  
R&T Babich's Avatar
R&T Babich
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Originally Posted by EXSwap
I totally dig the bar storage! That's on the list for sure! I always end up standing the bar up on the trailer or chucking them in the back of the X. Neither of which are great storage solutions......
Here's a couple of other little enhancements.
Chain hooks under the propane rack keep the chains from laying on the ground in the rain.
A slice of PVC pipe helps line up the holes in the jack pad and a magic marker line helps find the top hole.
Properly placed holes in the propane nut handle and cross support allow a combo lock to be installed.
A simple loop of bungee keeps the trailer cable supported.
I replaced the stock tongue jack with a Husky HB4500 and it's worth every penny. It has a nice long extension range and comes with the adjustable pad. I had to use 2 blocks of woods with the old jack. Have not had to use wood blocks anymore.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2017 | 11:29 AM
  #50  
etrailerTeam's Avatar
etrailerTeam
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Joined: Dec 2016
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Originally Posted by EXSwap
Thanks for the info! I'll take a look at the hitch tightener and make sure I have the most up to date L brackets.

I've not been through their website for instructions, but I did read the manual (2 years ago). Based on what y'all are saying, I clearly need to go back and set this up from scratch (especially when heading out on a long trip, loaded to the gills). The picture is deceiving, and I went and counted just to make sure, but I have 6 washers now and added a 7th on the second leg of the trip.

The trailer weight is approximately 4,770 (7,500 GVWR) and the tongue weight is 718 according to the specs. I admit I have not run it across the scale to verify this and I also admit I may have overloaded that a bit for the hitch I have. Tools and a spare tire up front in the camper may have done it.

I'll definitely be running it across the scale in the near future. And a new hitch may be in order with a higher capacity.
You're on the right track by resetting the system from scratch, this is something that should be done each time the tongue weight of the trailer changes by more than a hundred or so pounds.

Rather than making an educated guess, I'd recommend you definitively determine the trailer's tongue weight. Do this when the trailer is fully loaded and ready to tow, and be aware that the weight of anything stowed in the tow vehicle behind its rear axle MUST be included in that tongue weight figure.

If you have a 1000 lb system, and are using the shank that was included with the system, the shank is only rated for 1000 lbs per Equal-i-zer. If your actual tongue weight is exceeding the capacity of the spring bars you're using or the capacity of the shank, it would explain the damage of the shank you've described. I'd recommend calling the folks at Equal-i-zer, they're very helpful, and might be persuaded to set you up with a new shank. They continually impress us with the way they treat their customers and stand behind their products.

If the shank is moving around more in the receiver tube than it used to, or it's been 'stretched' as you suspect, DO NOT TOW with that receiver hitch. If you use the link I've provided, you can see information on how to precisely determine your trailer's tongue weight, as well as suggestions on a replacement receiver hitch.

https://www.etrailer.com/expert-125.html
 
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