Trailer Hitch Issues
Drill the hole slightly undersized, put the washer in the freezer over night, heat up the receiver a bit and drive the shank washer into the hole.
I don't think there is much side-to-side or rotational force on the pin hole, just forward-backward.
Drill the hole slightly undersized, put the washer in the freezer over night, heat up the receiver a bit and drive the shank washer into the hole.
I don't think there is much side-to-side or rotational force on the pin hole, just forward-backward.
Chain hooks under the propane rack keep the chains from laying on the ground in the rain.
A slice of PVC pipe helps line up the holes in the jack pad and a magic marker line helps find the top hole.
Properly placed holes in the propane nut handle and cross support allow a combo lock to be installed.
A simple loop of bungee keeps the trailer cable supported.
I replaced the stock tongue jack with a Husky HB4500 and it's worth every penny. It has a nice long extension range and comes with the adjustable pad. I had to use 2 blocks of woods with the old jack. Have not had to use wood blocks anymore.
I've not been through their website for instructions, but I did read the manual (2 years ago). Based on what y'all are saying, I clearly need to go back and set this up from scratch (especially when heading out on a long trip, loaded to the gills). The picture is deceiving, and I went and counted just to make sure, but I have 6 washers now and added a 7th on the second leg of the trip.
The trailer weight is approximately 4,770 (7,500 GVWR) and the tongue weight is 718 according to the specs. I admit I have not run it across the scale to verify this and I also admit I may have overloaded that a bit for the hitch I have. Tools and a spare tire up front in the camper may have done it.
I'll definitely be running it across the scale in the near future. And a new hitch may be in order with a higher capacity.
Rather than making an educated guess, I'd recommend you definitively determine the trailer's tongue weight. Do this when the trailer is fully loaded and ready to tow, and be aware that the weight of anything stowed in the tow vehicle behind its rear axle MUST be included in that tongue weight figure.
If you have a 1000 lb system, and are using the shank that was included with the system, the shank is only rated for 1000 lbs per Equal-i-zer. If your actual tongue weight is exceeding the capacity of the spring bars you're using or the capacity of the shank, it would explain the damage of the shank you've described. I'd recommend calling the folks at Equal-i-zer, they're very helpful, and might be persuaded to set you up with a new shank. They continually impress us with the way they treat their customers and stand behind their products.
If the shank is moving around more in the receiver tube than it used to, or it's been 'stretched' as you suspect, DO NOT TOW with that receiver hitch. If you use the link I've provided, you can see information on how to precisely determine your trailer's tongue weight, as well as suggestions on a replacement receiver hitch.
https://www.etrailer.com/expert-125.html



