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In my experience, the one time when slop (a shank migrating around in the receiver tube) isn't a problem is when a weight distribution system is used. The spring bars usually exert enough leverage on the shank that it's shoved tight against the inside top of the receiver tube to the point where it will not budge in the slightest.
I paid more attention to our WD hitch this last trip and agree there isn't a problem.
The tension provided by the WD hitch presses the ball mount firmly against the top of the receiver tube and there is no slop movement.
The "groaning" from the Equalizer bars is also gone now that I wipe down the bars at the beginning of a trip and apply a little ball lube.
The hitch tightener U-bolt/plate setup does work well with our other 3 trailers that are not used with a WD hitch.
If you have a welder, the hitch pin is an easy fix. Buy what is call a weld washer, drill it to 5/8 and then weld it in on both sides with the the pin and hitch in place(or you will have to bore it thru with a drill and it may be off center). It will eliminate all pin slop.
lots of places sell these, artec ind, ruffstuff specialties, DIY4x, etc.
If you have a welder, the hitch pin is an easy fix. Buy what is call a weld washer, drill it to 5/8 ....
All my hitch pins are 5/8" shank.
Wouldn't the hole being drilled in the receiver be 3/4" or so?
Is this the type of weld washer?
This weld washer would add 1/4" on each side.
Put air bags on the rear. Hook up, people inside, full tank, use airbags to level truck, lower hitch to level trailer, done. Worked for me. Put all the control back in the steering wheel. Trailer did as told.
I tow a 24' enclosed with 4000 lb cars inside....no issues.
In my experience, the one time when slop (a shank migrating around in the receiver tube) isn't a problem is when a weight distribution system is used. The spring bars usually exert enough leverage on the shank that it's shoved tight against the inside top of the receiver tube to the point where it will not budge in the slightest.
My original concern was that I had a problem that stretched the receiver. I'm ok with a little slop, but if I'm set up so poorly that I've actually damaged the receiver, I needed to know (and I got some super pointers )
Put air bags on the rear. Hook up, people inside, full tank, use airbags to level truck, lower hitch to level trailer, done. Worked for me. Put all the control back in the steering wheel. Trailer did as told.
I tow a 24' enclosed with 4000 lb cars inside....no issues.
I've actually thought about air bags...almost purchased a set. I need new springs all the way around as I've got some sag going, want more weight carrying capacity, and need more up front for the swap I'm about to get into. Do you run any sort of anti-sway with your trailer?
Last edited by EXSwap; Jul 25, 2017 at 08:13 AM.
Reason: Misspelled a word
If you have a welder, the hitch pin is an easy fix. Buy what is call a weld washer, drill it to 5/8 and then weld it in on both sides with the the pin and hitch in place(or you will have to bore it thru with a drill and it may be off center). It will eliminate all pin slop.
lots of places sell these, artec ind, ruffstuff specialties, DIY4x, etc.
Originally Posted by R&T Babich
All my hitch pins are 5/8" shank.
Wouldn't the hole being drilled in the receiver be 3/4" or so?
Is this the type of weld washer?
This weld washer would add 1/4" on each side.
I didn't know about the weld washers....my fix was gonna be 1/4" plate welded to both sides (with a hole of course) and maybe across the top to make sure it stays nice and stiff. My other option would be to have my guy cut out the 2" and put a 2.5" in it's place. The aftermarket hitches are very appealing though and that's probably the long term solution.
I've actually thought about air bags...almost purchased a set. I need new springs all the way around as I've got some sage going, want more weight carrying capacity, and need more up front for the swap I'm about to get into. Do you run any sort of anti-sway with your trailer?
Funny story, I had my truck 'resprung' and after that there was no need for the air bags. Bought my stuff from ATI.
Anyway, yes, I use a WD hitch all the time but no anti sway via hitch. Had one years ago and it broke, never replaced. Once you get your rig leveled you should have full control from the drivers seat. With new springs and a rear sway bar, you should be good to go. Oh yeah, E tires as well.
Funny story, I had my truck 'resprung' and after that there was no need for the air bags. Bought my stuff from ATI.
Anyway, yes, I use a WD hitch all the time but no anti sway via hitch. Had one years ago and it broke, never replaced. Once you get your rig leveled you should have full control from the drivers seat. With new springs and a rear sway bar, you should be good to go. Oh yeah, E tires as well.
I'll have to see how the existing rear sway bar I have performs with the new springs once I get them on. I may want to go with the Helwig setup, but we'll see. For sure on the 10 ply tires. I'm not sure I'd even consider driving an X very far without them, let alone hauling stuff around.
I'll have to see how the existing rear sway bar I have performs with the new springs once I get them on. I may want to go with the Helwig setup, but we'll see. For sure on the 10 ply tires. I'm not sure I'd even consider driving an X very far without them, let alone hauling stuff around.
I went with an OEM rear sway bar from a super duty. All I had to do was either get the SD rear shock mount or cut the massive plate off the existing one.
... I may want to go with the Helwig setup, but we'll see. For sure on the 10 ply tires. ....
The Helwig anti-roll bars are a big improvement over the stock F250 bars.
A small increase in diameter of an anti-roll bar is a large increase in tension.
I'd upgrade the springs, install a set of Helwig bars and then see if you need anything more.
Upgrade your trans cooler if you haven't already - don't believe the temp gauge, it just indicates "OK", it's not a real gauge.
I don't think "10 ply" tires are actually made anymore.
Our Load range E tires are 3 plies polyester, 2 plies steel and 1 ply nylon.
I noticed in one of your pics you are using an angled hitch pin.
I use the one with a combo lock (I hate keys) and it was causing issues with the pin hole and binding up.
Grinding a bit off the angled end will allow the pin to swivel without binding.
Adding a piece of 5/8" hose works well as a spacer to keep the angled part from rounding the receiver hole.
Do these get welded to the outside of the receiver tube or do you drill a hole large enough for it to fit into?
I like the ones with a shank on them that goes into a hole drilled into the receiver tube.
The shank weld washers are chrome moly and provide 1/2" of pin support on each side.
Do these get welded to the outside of the receiver tube or do you drill a hole large enough for it to fit into?
I like the ones with a shank on them that goes into a hole drilled into the receiver tube.
The shank weld washers are chrome moly and provide 1/2" of pin support on each side.
outside. So you have the receiver wall (3/16) and the washer(1/4 if using the diy4x) so you are almost at 1/2. these are mild steel. Mine seem to be holding up, but a bent pin will still wallow them out.
... So you have the receiver wall (3/16) and the washer(1/4 if using the diy4x) so you are almost at 1/2. these are mild steel. Mine seem to be holding up, but a bent pin will still wallow them out. ...
But, if your receiver holes are wallowed out the receiver wall will not support the pin, only the washer.
A bent pin will only wallow out the hole if the bent part gets in the hole which will not happen as shown earlier by sliding a piece of 5/8" hose over the pin.
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