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My window motor on the pass. side just up and quit. When I checked voltage it dropped down to 8 V when I pushed the switch. When I pulled it out and tested it, it ran good and felt torquey. I cleaned it up good on the inside and the brushes still had some length to them and reistalled the motor. It worked for a few days and did it again. I went tp the junkyard and got another and it was real clean on the inside. It worked for a day. The widow doesn't seem to be in a bind. It is easy to pull up by hand while the motor is out. I guess I just need to break down and buy a new one.
If you get a new motor, it's suggested that you find a quality aftermarket version as opposed to OEM, unless you are one of those rare types who knows how to get Motorcraft parts from a dealer without having to take out a small loan! Strange how neither is working properly, but it could also be coincidental. An electrical issue should not be left out as a possibility! Perhaps someone else here would be kind enough to elaborate on potential problems?
I nailed a deer with my truck too. The front bumper got him good. Only cracked the plate holder a little bit.
I am tired of messing with the window motor. It has 12.45 VDC going to it but pulls it down to 8.5 when the switch is pushed.
Enough trial and error, mostly error, NAPA has a remanufactured one for $59. That is where I am headed.
I wish all the deer would die that easily and efficiently. I lost my entire driver's side light assembly, chrome wheel well accent, the whole bloody door, and have dents up to the tailgate. The ******* got a shattered neck and severed leg in return.
But anyway... that sounds like quite a draw for a power window motor. Yes they place quite a load on the electrical system, but if two of them up and failed and it wasn't by coincidence, perhaps you're looking at poor workmanship or poor electrical connections. Did you investigate them both after they failed? If anyone applicable is reading this, the operating specs for one of these would be appreciated!