will not idle
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
I'm not mixing and matching parts from the different carbs. I am going to use the booster assembly that came with the carb that I bought. As far as the brass inlet fitting. When I got the truck there was a pieced together steel and rubber fuel line coming out of the pump with an inline fuel filter. I think one of the past owners didn't realize that there was a filter inside of the pump canister and cut the steel line to put in an inline filter. I replaced the fuel pump canister filter and made up a solid fuel line from the pump to the carb with flare fittings. The flare line worked fine on the carb without an inlet fitting and the new carb also has a threaded boss with a flare inside. I am using a 1/2" x 1/2" brass fitting on the carb sot that I can use a wrench to hold tension while I tighten down the line coming from the pump. I will work without the inlet fitting but I think it is safer to use one so that there isn't the risk of cracking the carb while tightening down the nut.
1.14 Venturi carbs were used on engines as small as 289.
You can not just go by venturi size to match a carb to an engine.
The fact that had an air distribution plate makes me suspect that is was off a smaller displacement engine.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: MA
The air distribution plate was off of the carb that I removed from the truck not the carb that I am rebuilding. This was the carb that had what appeared to be parts from different carbs due to the top cover having Motorcraft stamped into it and the holes for a vacuum pull off. The body of the carb had a manual choke which wouldn't have been on a carb with a vacuum pull off. The carb that I am replacing it with is a C5TF-B which is a manual choke 1.14 venturi carb that came on some 352 FE truck engines. The new carb appears to have all of it's parts that it was manufactured with. I'll get some pictures of it tonight when I get home.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
C5TF-B:
1965 F100/350 with a 352 and M/T. Parts list 21A.
C2OZ9B511A....discharge ball weight.....109" O.D. .88" long.
D1PZ9A523F.....booster venture assy.....identified by "PF".
Note,
I didn't look for any replacing part numbers since as of now I don't think you need to locate them. I mainly wanted to post the other info to double check what you have.
1965 F100/350 with a 352 and M/T. Parts list 21A.
C2OZ9B511A....discharge ball weight.....109" O.D. .88" long.
D1PZ9A523F.....booster venture assy.....identified by "PF".
Note,
I didn't look for any replacing part numbers since as of now I don't think you need to locate them. I mainly wanted to post the other info to double check what you have.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
I would and yes .109". Just being cautious. Chances that a 1965 carb has never been rebuilt are slim. And as you can tell by your 1st carb, sometimes a rebuilder company batches carb parts together and soaks them all at once. Not necessarily keeping the same carb's parts together. It is cool that the tag was still there. But that is no guarantee the carb didn't come from some parts store at one time. And a mechanic transferred the tag to it.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: MA
Ok I checked out the venturi's. I found a stamping on the bottom underneath the gasket?
Old Carb: B3 T2 or B3 12 I can't make out the numbers clearly.
New Carb: a small number 4 and next to that in bigger letters MC 3.
Old Carb: B3 T2 or B3 12 I can't make out the numbers clearly.
New Carb: a small number 4 and next to that in bigger letters MC 3.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
"MC" is correct. MC was part number C5TZ9A523A originally. later replaced by D1PZ9A523F (PF)
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: MA
Got the carb rebuild done and bolted on. There is a problem with the throttle linkage. The hole on the new carb where the throttle linkage rod is supposed to go is too small. There are other holes available but they don't work and keep throwing the retainer clip off of the rod. I may have to look for a thinner rod or take the carb back off the engine and try to drill the hole out to a bigger size. There is good news though, I bolted it on, set the manual choke set screw on the cable, and it fired right up. A couple of leaks from the fuel fitting were fixed by tightening them down a little. It seems to be running very good. I did a preliminary mixture setting just to get it going. After I get the other issues worked out I'll check vacuum and timing and get it dialed in just right.
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