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I think I'll look at some used carbs to rebuild as suggested. Not sure about the fuel pump. I did have it off of the truck because I couldn't remove the fuel filter canister without a fight. I put a new filter and canister housing on it and a new gasket. Seemed to be pumping okay. Was yours leaking on the inside and you couldn't detect it? So far everything on the outside of the pump looks dry.
I got lucky that mine began leaking on the exterior and not down into the oil pan! That would have been all bad. And yes those damned cans will cement themselves to the pump. Mine would begin leaking only noticeably when parked on the incline of my driveway. The pump would just become wet and drip. Plus I felt it was pumping weak and causing some of my power issues. Big difference when I replaced it.
Salty that is the best set! I was going to throw that up this morning too. I printed them out last year on a referral from you and have done 3 carbs with it. Gave a set to my bud here for his 69 too. Small differences here and there but definitely a Bible for 2100 carbs!
I bought a used Autolite 2100, 1.14 venturi. Seems like a solid core to rebuild. If I'm not mistaken the jets are marked 57's. When I buy the rebuild kit I would like to order the correct jets for my 352 FE. What would be a good jet size to use?
What do the plugs look like now? Have to experiment a little bit. What size carburetor was specified in the manual versus what are you using now? Jet size is based on the particular engine/carburetor combo, and elevation. A bit smaller carb may need a bit larger jetting all things being equal. Usually... You should be reasonably safe starting with those jets. The idea is always to start out on the rich side of things and work down not the other way around!
Jets aren't expensive but they aren't giving them away either. Figure $10 a pair. Jump two sizes at a time.
Keep in mind jetting has absolutely nothing to do with idle, the original subject of this post. If you know someone with a selection of jets you could borrow for testing that would be the way to go. If one is picky jetting could take several different pairs and testing to get right. The old school way was to keep jetting down in size until lean surge or misfire was found at steady level cruise, and then jet back up two sizes. An O2 sensor is really the way to go here, takes all the guesswork out.
I just ordered the rebuild kit for the carb so when that is all done and back up running I'll take a look at the plugs for a reading. I've seen some recent posts about people using an O2 sensor for jetting/mixture. The sensor would obviously not be like today's cars/trucks with computer controls and such. Is this just installed and metered for testing purposes? What is used to check the sensor output readings?
Yep, an O2 sensor is installed in the exhaust. It's just used for tuning and can be removed, installed in a different vehicle, whatever. They include a portable "gauge" or controller, or a dash gauge can be installed permanently to monitor. They really take a lot of the guesswork out of tuning a carburetor.
tip on O2 sensor
Mount it as close to exhaust manifold as possible, it has to heat up crazy to work , if you don't have enough heat then you have to buy the more expensive Heated O2 sensor(s) and run 12v to them .
I am going to look into getting one when I get the carb rebuilt and installed. Does it have to be TIG welded or can I MIG weld it. I don't have a TIG setup. If it needs to be TIG I can probably remove the pipe after the exhaust manifold and take it to a shop to have it welded.
The bung can be installed however you want just so long as there aren't any pinholes or leaks. The O2 sensor itself must be powered whenever it's in the exhaust stream, so a dummy plug is installed when not in use.
Keep in mind if your local gas has ethanol or methanol this usually requires 2 jet sizes richer. So does a high flow exhaust system with headers and duals.