Probably. But there are other variables also. Try those 57's 1st. If it runs too lean let me know. I prolly have some 59's I'll mail you.

 

Ok thanks. I have the carburetor all disassembled and cleaned. Just waiting for the rebuild kit to arrive and it should go together pretty easily.

 

Making good progress on the rebuild. The exploded view that came with the rebuild kit showed some early and late diagrams for some of the different carbs that it is made for. I took the old carb off of the truck and did some detective work and a side by side comparison. The original was a 1.21 venturi and the carb that I am rebuilding is a 1.14. I think that it is probable that a previous owner put the carb that is on the truck together with parts from several carbs. It has a manual choke like the one that I bought and the choke linkage is similar. The carb air horn has a casting in it for a vacuum pull off which I think didn't come out until after 1970. The inside venturi cluster looks to be an earlier version. According to the instructions there is a plastic plate that goes under the venturi screw and was supposed to be used on 1964 through 1965. I found this plate on my old carb. I think it might be used to keep the fuel from splashing when the accelerator pump actuates? Should I use this plate on the new carb? It looks like it take the place of the round gasket that goes under the main venturi hold down screw. Also the original vacuum port for the distributor advance was a permanent install on the old carb. The new carb has threads where this vacuum line attaches to. I need to find a threaded x barbed hose connection. Does anyone know the size of these threads? The instructions show a fuel inlet port that the steel fuel line threads into. On my old carb I just had the fuel line brass flare connection threaded directly into the carb. There were no leaks but I would like to do the connection properly. Do I need to find one of those brass male x female connectors? I think the fuel line from the fuel pump is 5/16th. What is the size of the fuel inlet threads?

 

That plate would keep the air flow from hitting the accelerator pump squirts. I wonder if it wasn't a "fix" for certain vehicles experiencing some certain problem. IMHO leave it off. But don't throw it away yet. I don't know what size that fitting is but I can tell you it is the fitting that always comes with 5/16" brake lines at a local parts store.

 

There are two fitting sizes that I need to find. The fuel inlet size should be easy to find. The tough one is the vacuum advance fitting on the right side of the carb. I thought I found the right one at a hardware store. It is a 1/8" pipe thread x barb fitting but it is slightly too big. I tried a fitting off of an old crossover brake line that I have for sizing purposes. It seemed to thread in but I didn't want to force it. Not sure what size the fitting is but it has 24 threads per inch. I am stuck with this thing. I've gone on some carb parts sites but have come up short.

 

My factory ford manual gives specs as to whether or not that air distribution plate is installed on your particular carb. Worth looking up.

 

1.23 is not oem on a 352, way too big.

 

I went with a smaller carb and bought a 1.14 core on Ebay. It is in good shape and has the manual choke which I have been looking for. I am just about done with the rebuild. After lots of running around today to several auto parts stores and hardware stores I figured out the vacuum port fitting size. It is 3/8-24. I am going to order one online and hopefully the carb will be up and running by the end of the week.

 

For those rebuilding carbs, just call Mike the owner at Welcome to Mike's Carburetor Parts - Your Number 1 Carburetor Parts Store . He knows the 2100 series like the back of his hand. You can get what you really need and he has a great set of videos on his site and YouTube for explaining their function and how to rebuild them. They even do a tech message/email line. Tell them what you have for year/make/model/engine and your location and he will set you up. He called me back personally and talked me through the first rebuild. I'll bet he was on the phone with me for 45 minutes just talking shop. Great resource and he occasionally has used carb parts to help your build.

 

I got the rebuild kit from Mike's. I've also seen their rebuilding videos which helped me with disassembly/reassembly. I just ordered the fittings and I should have them in a couple of days. I took the old carb apart and I can see why it wasn't running good. It had something that looks like slush all throughout the inside. It is probably the varnish that broke down when I put new fuel and Sea Foam in the tank.

 

Oh man, at least you figured that part out though! Nothing worse than no idea what is causing the issues.

 

1.23" is not too big for a 352. the 1.23" venturi carbs are just 356 CFM

A 1.33" would be fine on a 352.

Ideally would should look for a 2100 not an emissions a 2150.

 

Ideally would should look for a 2100 and not an emissions a 2150 as is currently fitted.

The Air distribution plate (the baffle plate on the venturi) was used to increase throttle response and was usually only fitted to 289's 302's 255's and the 3.8L V6
Think of it as a back yard fix to prevent throttle lag/bog.

Booster assy's are not really interchangeable as they are set up for each engine CUI the inlet diameters for idle circuitry and power circuitry are different.
If they are mismatched to the engine it will never run properly including idle.

Think of the booster assy's in 2 groups 302 and under and 351 and above 302 and below booster assy's have restricted booster inlets. So it is NOT advisable to use them on engine above 302 displacement or mid and full throttle lean conditions may occur.



Be sure you have the right booster assy for your engine.

Give us a pic of the bottom die of the bosster assy and we can tell you if it is at least in the 351 and up group.

The fuel inlet on your carb is to accept a standard 3/8" steel fuel line with a Double/SAE 45° Flare.

This carb had a remote filter most had a 1/8" NPT boss for the fuel filter to screw in to with the fuel line screwing or connected by a piece of rubber hose in to the filter.
The rubber hose connection was dumped later due to the risk of fire the hose would fail/leak then spray fuel all over more often than not being ignited by the close proximity distributor, later vehicles were plumbed with steel from pump to carb with no bits of rubber hose in between.

If I recall correctly there was a Ford fuel filter that had a male SAE 45° Flare end that would screw in to carbs with that boss JEFFFAFA would know for sure.


Matthew

 

I'm not mixing and matching parts from the different carbs. I am going to use the booster assembly that came with the carb that I bought. As far as the brass inlet fitting. When I got the truck there was a pieced together steel and rubber fuel line coming out of the pump with an inline fuel filter. I think one of the past owners didn't realize that there was a filter inside of the pump canister and cut the steel line to put in an inline filter. I replaced the fuel pump canister filter and made up a solid fuel line from the pump to the carb with flare fittings. The flare line worked fine on the carb without an inlet fitting and the new carb also has a threaded boss with a flare inside. I am using a 1/2" x 1/2" brass fitting on the carb sot that I can use a wrench to hold tension while I tighten down the line coming from the pump. I will work without the inlet fitting but I think it is safer to use one so that there isn't the risk of cracking the carb while tightening down the nut.

 

I remember the C5AZ9155B had bigger threads. Still available from Ford.