Wiring issue???
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2017
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Kev - You said that Accessory doesn't do anything. But then you say the radio, heater, etc all work fine - but you didn't saywhether that is with the key in On or in Accessory. So, can you see why I'm confused?
But your procedure on the ignition switch looks good - if you got the right hole to put the drill bit in. There are several holes, and the one you want is not easy to see. But with the bit in there it locks the switch in the Off position - although the bit is small enough that it would be easy to break it if you forced the key.
So, are you sure you did the ignition switch alignment correctly. I ask because it really seems like the switch is the problem. And NotEnoughTrucks is right - the tilt wheel columns are notorious for breaking internally, and that may be part of the problem. So, is your column a tilt unit?
Also, did you bring any components over from the 86 besides the frame. NotEnough is right that the early 81 trucks had some wiring differences, so any part from a later truck is suspect.
But your procedure on the ignition switch looks good - if you got the right hole to put the drill bit in. There are several holes, and the one you want is not easy to see. But with the bit in there it locks the switch in the Off position - although the bit is small enough that it would be easy to break it if you forced the key.
So, are you sure you did the ignition switch alignment correctly. I ask because it really seems like the switch is the problem. And NotEnoughTrucks is right - the tilt wheel columns are notorious for breaking internally, and that may be part of the problem. So, is your column a tilt unit?
Also, did you bring any components over from the 86 besides the frame. NotEnough is right that the early 81 trucks had some wiring differences, so any part from a later truck is suspect.
-yes, I'm sure I installed the switch right.
--no, i bought the truck like this. The previous owner built this truck and he parked this truck because it had a "wiring issue". I didn'think it would of been this bad
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Freshman User
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whats the "famous piece" and how do you check it see if the steering is the problem?
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Here's a link about the piece in the column. By the way, the local parts stores carry this piece now, that's how common it is for it to break.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...k-in-park.html
You have to pull the steering wheel, the turnsignal switch, and get down in there to get to it. You probably should be in there anyway though to check for other problems also.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...k-in-park.html
You have to pull the steering wheel, the turnsignal switch, and get down in there to get to it. You probably should be in there anyway though to check for other problems also.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,178
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Here's a link about the piece in the column. By the way, the local parts stores carry this piece now, that's how common it is for it to break.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...k-in-park.html
You have to pull the steering wheel, the turnsignal switch, and get down in there to get to it. You probably should be in there anyway though to check for other problems also.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...k-in-park.html
You have to pull the steering wheel, the turnsignal switch, and get down in there to get to it. You probably should be in there anyway though to check for other problems also.
My truck has a 4-speed, so am wondering if my truck even has this piece and if I should consider a precautionary replacement. If it matters, I keep my tilt locked in one position, and never change it.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Not sure where better to ask, but the thread referenced above is 8 years old. Is this infamous piece found on all tilt columns, both auto and manual? Or is it only on auto trucks?
My truck has a 4-speed, so am wondering if my truck even has this piece and if I should consider a precautionary replacement. If it matters, I keep my tilt locked in one position, and never change it.
My truck has a 4-speed, so am wondering if my truck even has this piece and if I should consider a precautionary replacement. If it matters, I keep my tilt locked in one position, and never change it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 116
From: Saskatchewan Canada
Not sure where better to ask, but the thread referenced above is 8 years old. Is this infamous piece found on all tilt columns, both auto and manual? Or is it only on auto trucks?
My truck has a 4-speed, so am wondering if my truck even has this piece and if I should consider a precautionary replacement. If it matters, I keep my tilt locked in one position, and never change it.
My truck has a 4-speed, so am wondering if my truck even has this piece and if I should consider a precautionary replacement. If it matters, I keep my tilt locked in one position, and never change it.
The symptoms of a broken actuator can make the link between the actuator rod and the key cylinder very sloppy, which often makes it difficult to turn the key to the start position. It also could cause a problem with locating the "off" position when adjusting the switch contacts. I am wondering if this might be the case and the inaccurate adjustment shows up as the inability to turn the switch to the accessory position?
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It is covered here: Steering Columns - ???Gary's Garagemahal. But the answer is that the part in question was used on all 1980 - 1989 E, F, and U 100's through 350's that had tilt wheels. But, in Dec of 1988 Ford replaced that part with another one. Hopefully it fixes the problem.
Ignition Actuator Replacement on an '85 w/tilt - Ford Bronco Forum
Hope I'm not hijacking the thread. Should we move this to a new one? You see, I have a couple more questions:
1) If this piece breaks on me at some remote location, is there a reasonable workaround to get the truck started and limp home? I carry enough tools to do some basic work. For example, I'm wondering if I could drop the steering column and then grab the rod with a pair of pliers to actuate the ignition switch.
2) Does anybody make an upgraded (read: stronger) version of this fragile part?
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
If it ever happens on the road, all you need to do is take the short little cover off that goes around the column near the cluster. You will need see a metal rod on top of the column and it will move when you turn the keyswitch. Take the keyswitch and turn it as far as you can like you are trying to start the truck, and then take some pliers and grab the rod on top of the column and shove it downward toward the cluster. It should start.
Then if you have a automatic, it probably won't move out of park. To get it to move out of park take a small screwdriver and in the same metal rod area poke backward up the column toward the steering wheel to align the broken piece so the lever will move. That is what the notch is for in the lower portion, to keep the tranny lever from moving in the off position.
This link supposedly has a easier way to install this piece.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-easy-way.html
Then if you have a automatic, it probably won't move out of park. To get it to move out of park take a small screwdriver and in the same metal rod area poke backward up the column toward the steering wheel to align the broken piece so the lever will move. That is what the notch is for in the lower portion, to keep the tranny lever from moving in the off position.
This link supposedly has a easier way to install this piece.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-easy-way.html
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2017
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Here's a link about the piece in the column. By the way, the local parts stores carry this piece now, that's how common it is for it to break.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...k-in-park.html
You have to pull the steering wheel, the turnsignal switch, and get down in there to get to it. You probably should be in there anyway though to check for other problems also.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...k-in-park.html
You have to pull the steering wheel, the turnsignal switch, and get down in there to get to it. You probably should be in there anyway though to check for other problems also.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,178
Likes: 1,174
If it ever happens on the road, all you need to do is take the short little cover off that goes around the column near the cluster. You will need see a metal rod on top of the column and it will move when you turn the keyswitch. Take the keyswitch and turn it as far as you can like you are trying to start the truck, and then take some pliers and grab the rod on top of the column and shove it downward
[/hijack mode off]
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 116
From: Saskatchewan Canada
The illustration in Franklin's post (#56), shows why and where the actuator breaks. The shortened replacement procedure referred to is kind of controversial and it is worth reading the link to find out why.
I would not cut the actuator as described. That extension serves the function of a guide and it slides in a close tolerance channel. Cutting off that last 1\4 inch dramatically shortens the effective length of the guide and greatly increases the chance of binding which will result in yet another broken actuator. That said, the shortcut does work, but you take your chances. The main reason for considering this is the tilt spring which must be compressed during assembly. It actually is not difficult when you try it, but it is somewhat unsettling when everything springs apart on disassembly. Take your time and work logically. It takes me about an hour to do, but I have done it several times.
I would not cut the actuator as described. That extension serves the function of a guide and it slides in a close tolerance channel. Cutting off that last 1\4 inch dramatically shortens the effective length of the guide and greatly increases the chance of binding which will result in yet another broken actuator. That said, the shortcut does work, but you take your chances. The main reason for considering this is the tilt spring which must be compressed during assembly. It actually is not difficult when you try it, but it is somewhat unsettling when everything springs apart on disassembly. Take your time and work logically. It takes me about an hour to do, but I have done it several times.
