Wiring issue???
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I'm confused. You said "I tried battery to frame,to motor to cab...." Are you saying that you ran a ground from the frame to the motor and then to the cab?
Also, everything works properly if the key is turned 1/2 way between Start and Run? But, you say that you "adjusted the ignition switch just the way the book says." Which book?
I ask because you also say "if you turn the key all to accessory there is no power." That and the fact that everything works correctly with the key halfway between Run and Start strongly suggests an ignition switch problem, and most likely adjustment thereof.
As for installing a pushbutton start, how would that fix an ignition switch problem? The accessories and horn have nothing to do with the Start circuit. so all installing a start switch would do is to confuse things even more.
Also, everything works properly if the key is turned 1/2 way between Start and Run? But, you say that you "adjusted the ignition switch just the way the book says." Which book?
I ask because you also say "if you turn the key all to accessory there is no power." That and the fact that everything works correctly with the key halfway between Run and Start strongly suggests an ignition switch problem, and most likely adjustment thereof.
As for installing a pushbutton start, how would that fix an ignition switch problem? The accessories and horn have nothing to do with the Start circuit. so all installing a start switch would do is to confuse things even more.
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Freshman User
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i even tried different grinding spots from under the dash right to the battery and nothing makes a difference
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Then it isn't a ground problem, and we can move on.
Last I knew you have two problems, but there have been lots of discussions as well as confusing statements, so let's just make sure we are in agreement on what problems you have:
Last I knew you have two problems, but there have been lots of discussions as well as confusing statements, so let's just make sure we are in agreement on what problems you have:
- The engine won't shut off if the lights are on and the switch is in Run.
- But the engine will shut off with the lights on and everything else works correctly if the switch is halfway between Run & Start. I ask because you said "everything works properly if the key is turned 1/2 way between Start and Run", and to me "everything" includes the engine shutting off when the lights are on.
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Then it isn't a ground problem, and we can move on.
Last I knew you have two problems, but there have been lots of discussions as well as confusing statements, so let's just make sure we are in agreement on what problems you have:
Last I knew you have two problems, but there have been lots of discussions as well as confusing statements, so let's just make sure we are in agreement on what problems you have:
- The engine won't shut off if the lights are on and the switch is in Run.
- But the engine will shut off with the lights on and everything else works correctly if the switch is halfway between Run & Start. I ask because you said "everything works properly if the key is turned 1/2 way between Start and Run", and to me "everything" includes the engine shutting off when the lights are on.
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From: Northeast, OK
the first problem was the truck wouldn't shut off unless the lights were off. I changed the switch and that problem went away. Now when the truck is running the horn doesn't work unless the lights are on. Also the marker lights are dim and the horn is very loud If I turn the key between the run and start spot the horn gets louder and the lights get brighter
I'm sure you think I'm being difficult. But I'm just trying to understand as I cannot solve what I don't understand.
So, let's try this again:
- With the engine running and the ignition switch in Run the horn doesn't work unless the lights are on. But, with the lights on it works at the proper volume. And, in that situation the marker lights, and only the marker lights, are dim. All other lights are on full brilliance.
- With the engine running and the ignition switch half way between Run & Start the horn works full volume and the marker lights go to full brilliance - and everything else on the truck still works.
- With the ignition switch turned to Accessory the engine shuts off but nothing that is supposed to work in that position has power. That includes the radio, power windows, digital clock, etc.
FTE Legend
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From: Angier, NC
I still think the systems are trying to find ground any way it can.
The thing is to find what system has the ground issue.
My guess it is the lighting system.
I got a question for people that may know.
Does the head light switch body have a ground lug on it and if so is there a wire connected to it and ground?
I don't remember them for the truck when I pulled the wiring from my trucks and they are put away at this time to check.
The thing is to find what system has the ground issue.
My guess it is the lighting system.
I got a question for people that may know.
Does the head light switch body have a ground lug on it and if so is there a wire connected to it and ground?
I don't remember them for the truck when I pulled the wiring from my trucks and they are put away at this time to check.
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From: Virginia
The light switch does not have a ground, there is no purpose for it. The light switch handles all hot wires, no ground wires present. All the ground wires for the lighting are on the other side of the bulbs, and make their way back to the negative of the battery through various paths.
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Ok, you fixed the issue where the engine wouldn't shut off. Good! But I'm still struggling to quantify the problems completely, and your wording isn't making it clear. Statements like "Now when the truck is running the horn doesn't work unless the lights are on. Also the marker lights are dim and the horn is very loud" really make it hard to understand. I don't know if the horn has three volumes - none, very loud, and louder, or what.
I'm sure you think I'm being difficult. But I'm just trying to understand as I cannot solve what I don't understand.
So, let's try this again:
I'm sure you think I'm being difficult. But I'm just trying to understand as I cannot solve what I don't understand.
So, let's try this again:
- With the engine running and the ignition switch in Run the horn doesn't work unless the lights are on. But, with the lights on it works at the proper volume. And, in that situation the marker lights, and only the marker lights, are dim. All other lights are on full brilliance.
- With the engine running and the ignition switch half way between Run & Start the horn works full volume and the marker lights go to full brilliance - and everything else on the truck still works.
- With the ignition switch turned to Accessory the engine shuts off but nothing that is supposed to work in that position has power. That includes the radio, power windows, digital clock, etc.
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From: Northeast, OK
Kev - I hate to be a pain, but if we are going to solve this we are going to have to be very precise on the conditions. I say that because you did not comment on many of the conditions I included. For instance, you didn't talk about the accessory position. Nor did you mention the marker lights, or comment on the other lights.
You specifically asked for my help, and I am willing to help you. But you are not helping me help you. What I need you to do is to respond to my three conditions and explain whether I have things right and, if not, what is wrong. Do not leave anything out as I cannot figure it out unless I have all of the facts.
You specifically asked for my help, and I am willing to help you. But you are not helping me help you. What I need you to do is to respond to my three conditions and explain whether I have things right and, if not, what is wrong. Do not leave anything out as I cannot figure it out unless I have all of the facts.
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Kev - I hate to be a pain, but if we are going to solve this we are going to have to be very precise on the conditions. I say that because you did not comment on many of the conditions I included. For instance, you didn't talk about the accessory position. Nor did you mention the marker lights, or comment on the other lights.
You specifically asked for my help, and I am willing to help you. But you are not helping me help you. What I need you to do is to respond to my three conditions and explain whether I have things right and, if not, what is wrong. Do not leave anything out as I cannot figure it out unless I have all of the facts.
You specifically asked for my help, and I am willing to help you. But you are not helping me help you. What I need you to do is to respond to my three conditions and explain whether I have things right and, if not, what is wrong. Do not leave anything out as I cannot figure it out unless I have all of the facts.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Saskatchewan Canada
i just bought a 1980 f150 with a 86 frame and this truck has a wiring issue I just can't figure out. The truck starts and runs fine, but if the lights are on you can't shut the truck off with the key. As soon as you shut the lights off the ignition works fine. Any ideas on what could be going on??
Well, this thread has already covered a lot of common issues and maybe I am missing something here, but exactly what parts are being used from which truck? If I recall correctly, the wiring on an 80/81 has some differences from 82 to 86 and if you are using the 86 drivetrain, you may also be running EFI, so it would be helpful to know what your configuration is.
On that ignition switch, if you are not getting the accessory position, you have a faulty switch or adjustment. There is another possibility here if you have tilt steering and that would be a broken actuator lever inside the column. There are plenty of articles and videos on this, Google is your friend. Resistance is futile!
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Well, this thread has already covered a lot of common issues and maybe I am missing something here, but exactly what parts are being used from which truck? If I recall correctly, the wiring on an 80/81 has some differences from 82 to 86 and if you are using the 86 drivetrain, you may also be running EFI, so it would be helpful to know what your configuration is.
On that ignition switch, if you are not getting the accessory position, you have a faulty switch or adjustment. There is another possibility here if you have tilt steering and that would be a broken actuator lever inside the column. There are plenty of articles and videos on this, Google is your friend. Resistance is futile!
On that ignition switch, if you are not getting the accessory position, you have a faulty switch or adjustment. There is another possibility here if you have tilt steering and that would be a broken actuator lever inside the column. There are plenty of articles and videos on this, Google is your friend. Resistance is futile!
This is the second ignition switch and I'm pretty sure the switch is set up right. There is a pin hole in the side of the switch that marks the neutral position I put the key in the off position, and I put a drill bit in the side to switch to hole it in place. Bolted it down and pulled the drill bit out
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Kev - You said that Accessory doesn't do anything. But then you say the radio, heater, etc all work fine - but you didn't say whether that is with the key in On or in Accessory. So, can you see why I'm confused?
But your procedure on the ignition switch looks good - if you got the right hole to put the drill bit in. There are several holes, and the one you want is not easy to see. But with the bit in there it locks the switch in the Off position - although the bit is small enough that it would be easy to break it if you forced the key.
So, are you sure you did the ignition switch alignment correctly. I ask because it really seems like the switch is the problem. And NotEnoughTrucks is right - the tilt wheel columns are notorious for breaking internally, and that may be part of the problem. So, is your column a tilt unit?
Also, did you bring any components over from the 86 besides the frame. NotEnough is right that the early 81 trucks had some wiring differences, so any part from a later truck is suspect.
But your procedure on the ignition switch looks good - if you got the right hole to put the drill bit in. There are several holes, and the one you want is not easy to see. But with the bit in there it locks the switch in the Off position - although the bit is small enough that it would be easy to break it if you forced the key.
So, are you sure you did the ignition switch alignment correctly. I ask because it really seems like the switch is the problem. And NotEnoughTrucks is right - the tilt wheel columns are notorious for breaking internally, and that may be part of the problem. So, is your column a tilt unit?
Also, did you bring any components over from the 86 besides the frame. NotEnough is right that the early 81 trucks had some wiring differences, so any part from a later truck is suspect.
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I would be amazed if the famous piece that breaks in the column is broken in his, since usually they will not start when this piece breaks, and also the shifter won't move if he has a automatic.
But I am also leaning toward something in the column. What I would do is drop the column down again, take the actuator rod out of the new switch, bolt the switch back down, and then operate it with your fingers or a screwdriver. See if the switch has definite detents you can feel and if it's put in those detents, does everything work normally? Can you pull it way back by hand and get accessory position to work? If so, I think there is something wrong mechanically in the column.
Turn the key by hand back and forth with the column still dropped and the switch still disconnected. Is the key stiff and has spots in it that could be interfering with the electrical switch? Does it refuse to turn backwards as it should to go to accessory? Or did the switch go back to accessory but nothing worked(electrical problem).
But I am also leaning toward something in the column. What I would do is drop the column down again, take the actuator rod out of the new switch, bolt the switch back down, and then operate it with your fingers or a screwdriver. See if the switch has definite detents you can feel and if it's put in those detents, does everything work normally? Can you pull it way back by hand and get accessory position to work? If so, I think there is something wrong mechanically in the column.
Turn the key by hand back and forth with the column still dropped and the switch still disconnected. Is the key stiff and has spots in it that could be interfering with the electrical switch? Does it refuse to turn backwards as it should to go to accessory? Or did the switch go back to accessory but nothing worked(electrical problem).
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I would be amazed if the famous piece that breaks in the column is broken in his, since usually they will not start when this piece breaks, and also the shifter won't move if he has a automatic.
But I am also leaning toward something in the column. What I would do is drop the column down again, take the actuator rod out of the new switch, bolt the switch back down, and then operate it with your fingers or a screwdriver. See if the switch has definite detents you can feel and if it's put in those detents, does everything work normally? Can you pull it way back by hand and get accessory position to work? If so, I think there is something wrong mechanically in the column.
Turn the key by hand back and forth with the column still dropped and the switch still disconnected. Is the key stiff and has spots in it that could be interfering with the electrical switch? Does it refuse to turn backwards as it should to go to accessory? Or did the switch go back to accessory but nothing worked(electrical problem).
But I am also leaning toward something in the column. What I would do is drop the column down again, take the actuator rod out of the new switch, bolt the switch back down, and then operate it with your fingers or a screwdriver. See if the switch has definite detents you can feel and if it's put in those detents, does everything work normally? Can you pull it way back by hand and get accessory position to work? If so, I think there is something wrong mechanically in the column.
Turn the key by hand back and forth with the column still dropped and the switch still disconnected. Is the key stiff and has spots in it that could be interfering with the electrical switch? Does it refuse to turn backwards as it should to go to accessory? Or did the switch go back to accessory but nothing worked(electrical problem).