I have a 93 F150, 302 AOD 4x2 with the super cooling option. ( well I assume it is because it is supposed to have the towing package and I did find the additiona transmission fluid cooler.) I flushed and filled the radiator this past weekend. I drained all the coolant removing the upper and lower radiator hoses. Forcing water through both the engine and radiator until the water was clear. I flushed in alternating directions to really clean it out. When I went to refill it, I was only able to get about 10 qts of antifreeze/water in. I was expecting to get somewhere between 16 and 18qts. Is there an air bleed screw somewhere to insure I got all the air out of the system? The fluid level has not changed since I filled it, but I have a hunch there is still air in the system. When I hold the upper radiator hose, I swear I can feel burbling. I appreciate the help.

regards,

Bryan

 

The tech manual for my 92 E150, 5.0l says to bleed the heater core by removing the upper and lower hoses. I was successful on the upper hose by loosening the clamp and hose under the front cowling but not at the heater core. The hoses to the core have special connectors that are difficule to open. I also filled the radiator with the engine running. Seemed to work. ( My problem was that the heater core would not warm up after I drained the system to put in a new trermostat). Good Luck!

 

I don't have a problem with the heater core warming up, it seems to warm up fine. The temperature gauge needle is in the same place. I am just concerned that I was unable to put back in the amount of antifreeze that the manual says it takes. Does your service manual say anything about bleeding the radiator or engine coolant? In most cars I have had there is some type of bleeding recomendation, whether it be a bleed screw, or a particular hose to disconnect.

If I understand you correctly, to bleed the heater core of air, you remove the hoses? If this is the process of bleeding the heater core, does your Ford service manual suggest anything for bleeding the radiator? Or is bleeding the heater core of air the way to bleed the radiator of air? Thanks

regards,

Bryan

 

&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp I strongly suspect the reason you only got 10 quarts in was due to the fact you didn't drain the block of coolant. Had you punched out the freeze plugs you'd have eliminated nearly all water/coolant in the system. And since you flushed with pure water, some of which potentially remained in the block, chances are your system is not at a 50/50 mix. You may want to test with a hydrometer if it's an issue.
&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp Any air in the passages will probably exit through the recovery reservoir in a short time, just keep refilling it as needed. Although it may be too late, the heat control should be set to max when flushing. This ensures the most thorough possible flush and expunges any air isolated in the heater core circuit. Hope this helps!

 

You are correct I did not punch out the freeze plugs. I did however put in 2 gallons of antifreeze, which as you say is less than 50%. Is there any other way to drain the block without punching out the freeze plugs? I have never done this before and am a little uncomfortable with it. Are they easy to get back in? I am assuming you need new ones. How many are there? Do all have to be removed? I don't mind doing it again, as long as it it done correctly. In my mind the other option I have is to simply drain it again and add just antifreeze. Being that the current mixture is below 50%, if I drain the existing mixture, excluding the block and add just antifreeze I should be above the 50% mixture. What do you think?

I did have the heat set to max, and I flushed out the heater core by placing the water hose against the heater core inlet and outlet until it ran clear. I disconnected the inlet and outlet hoses from the waterpump and flushed from there. Any additional help is appreciated.

regards,

Bryan

 

Ijust did my 93 5.0 and had a similar problem.I filled it with a 50/50 mixtureand then slightly over filled the burp tank. I then let the truck warm up at idleso as not to oveer heat it if there were an air lock in it. after running for a while I shut it down and let it cool a bit ant the tank level went down so I just topped it off and drove off to work. No problems but I should test my mixture level again now that it is getting cold out. My hydrometer broke so I need a new one, don't want the mixture too fat or it will enhance corrosion. I have never removed my thermostat so I don't know if it has a bleed hole in it.If it didn't I would drill a 1/16 in. hole in the outer edge of it to help the air get past the thermostat when it is closed. This greatly helps when changing fluids. Sometimes an airlock will occure directly below the thermostat and it won't open at the right temp. causing the motor to over heat momentarily. I know because this happened on a Rangeer that I had. I haad a hell of a time to get all the air out of that system.

 

I am no expert on your motor but usually you don't need to "punch" out the freeze plugs to fully drain the block. Almost every motor I have ever worked on has a threaded drain plug on the side of the block for this purpose. Often there are 2 plugs, especially on V8s.

If you don't drain the block you will usually have quite a bit of water in the block. What most mechanic books recommend is to figure out how much anitfreeze you need to get your 50/50 mix or whatever and add that to the syetm, then top off with water. Be sure to check the coolant level and add water over the next few days, you will often need to add quite a bit over a week until all the bubbles are out.

Many engines also do need to have the air bled out, usually through a bleeder screw or by removing one or both heater hoses. Basically you want to try to find the highest place in the cooling system and bleed there. Air tends to gather in the high places. Bleeding as much air as you can is important for more than just cooling efficiency. There was a recent study run by radiator shops and GM and Texaco where they discoverd that air in the system can lead to premature clogging of the cooling system due to junk gathering in the air pockets.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

Thanks Jim.

I don't have access to a service manual. Is there any one out there who can tell me for sure if that block has drain plugs/bolts? I will try and get under the engine to be sure but I would hate to turn the wrong bolt. If I can't figure this out. I will have to drain it again and fill it back up with just antifreeze. I was able to get in two gallons of antifreeze and 2 quarts water. If I can get in 10 quarts of anitfreeze then at least I know I will have a 50/50 concentration. Actually I would have a little more. If I drain it again, do I need to remove the thermostat? Is removing just the lower radiator hose sufficient?

That brings to mind another question. The water pump has two hoses that go to the heater coil. which is the inlet? The upper or lower? If I remove the both hose till all the air is out of the engine, turn the engine off, re-connect the inlet hose leading the heater coil and running the engine will full heat until the coolant comes out of the outlet hose. If I then reconnect the outlet hose to the water pump would that remove most of the air? Thanks

regards,

Bryan

 

Some more comments about the drain plug.

The plug is usually either a very simple plug, looks like a short bolt sticking out of the block, usually about 9/16 sized head. It is usually all by itself and normally low on the block and usually near the center of the side of the engine.

The other "style" plug is actually the engineers making use of a handy hole. The other type of plug is often a fairly large thing, about the size of a big spark plug and usually made of metal and plastic. That is a knock sensor, which is used by many engine computers to detect knock so the computer can adjust the ignition timing. The knock sensor is removable but is clumsier to get at and or remove because of its size and other possible interference like motor mounts. It is removable but may take a little more work.

I am lazy and usually I don't worry about the water left in the block, I just adjust the coolant/water ratio to compensate for the water left in the engine. This only works if the water in your area is relatively clean and soft and if you are not a fanatic about bottled water. The way I figure, when I do a flush and clean, I do several plain water flushes and drive to work and back during the first week. this pretty much gets rid of any crud and remaining chemicals in the engine. Then on my last flush and fill I drain as much as I can, and I don't mess with the drain plugs, then I add the amount of anitfreeze that would make up 50% according to the owner manual. Then I top up with bottled water. This means that I have maybe 10-25% city water, 50% antifreeze and the remainder bottled water. I top up several times during the first week.

This is pretty much the method I have done in almost 1 million miles of driving and servicing my cars. So far so good, never had a radiator failure or any major cooling system work.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

Thanks Jim, I really appreciate it. My problem is that I fully expected to put in 18 quarts and did not realize there would be 8 qts of water left in the block. I put in 2 gallons of antifreeze and then started to put in distilled water, I only got about two quarts in and did not know why. Until you enlightened me of course. So I will simply do it over. Can't hurt anything but the pocketbook right? I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again for your help.

Have a great thanksgiving, I know I will. I think this thanksgiving is going to be a somber yet unifying one for all of us.

Bryan