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70% eth only raises the temp 20-30 degrees or so ~ 830 mm hg = 16 psi
(specific heat changes though as does the heat transfer efficiency which is why most OEM's suggest 50/50?)
Either way,
If there's a steam generator operating in there or a head gasket is leaking....the pressures gonna rise.
Originally Posted by retiredsparky
Another unlikely possibility is a cracked head. Ford heads are pretty well made so that is uncommon in a stock motor.
I seem to remember Anthony (or someone else) say that just about ALL high time 6.0 heads have minor cracks that are not normally a problem because of their location........
Getting her in hopefully this coming week. Going to pull the heads and check everything out. Then determine what needs to be done and re do the head gaskets. I'll double check on block prep and all that. He's done quite a few and hasn't had a failure. He said it could be something as simple as a bad part (headgasket) but who knows. Heads were pressure tested, decked, oringed, new valves, valve guides, etc. He is going to put the coolant return kit on (I know, not many fans of them) and doing a regulated fuel return for just the price of parts. Was running Innovated Xtreme X tune on top of the Atlas 40 FICM tune but shouldn't be enough to pop the head gaskets. Also it's egr deleted (welded and straight BD Diesel up pipe)
I'm still not getting how people think it could be that. There is no exhaust going to the egr cooler. The up pipe goes straight to the turbo. Not being critical, I'm just asking how it could possibly be? FYI, if I run an older tune, I can't get pressure to build as high. I have to run the hot tune. When I first put the pressure gauge on I had to run it HARD and fast to get pressure above 10. Now it builds rather quickly just driving around. Seems like head gasket leak to me.
If he has a "straight pipe" that means that the EGR cooler could be leaking and STILL NOT cause the problem because there's no hot exhaust gases going to it.
The EGR cooler welded or not, is completely out of the picture.
I would say failed head gasket or cracked head.
I might suggest doing what works on a marine engine. Pressurize the cooling system to about 15-20 psi, close the valve and observe the gage. See if it holds pressure. If it doesn't, listen for leaks.
Ding,ding,ding, and we have a winner! The only true EGR delete is the one Anthony makes in his shop or the IPR ones. If it's welded it will still get pressure,henz the hotter tune makes it heat up more and blow coolant. Understand?
So it would have to go past the closed egr valve, and the cooler would have to be cracked which is wasn't when it was deleted. An wouldn't I lose coolant? Just trying to picture how this happens.
I said it before and I'll say it again.
Before you pull the heads pressure test the EGR cooler.
If you find it good then move on to the heads, But if you
find a leak in the EGR cooler then...
I think the speculation is the cooler may have a microscopic hole or crack from welding, and at higher pressures it's been said that the EGR valve lifts, (acting as a safety blow off if you still have the exhaust connection) so it could leak then. And checking it would certainly be less work then pulling the engine down.
Does the more intensive programming exhibit higher boost then the other one?