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I'm curious as to what the community thinks. I've never heard this before until today. To me (I'll never claim to be a mechanic) it seems like it would work but doesn't the radiator cool the hot coolant? Like hot in, cool out?To test for a bad radiator use a infrared thermometer. At running temps check the top of the radiator and then the bottom. If there is more than a 20* difference chances are the radiator needs to be replaced/cleaned.
I'm curious as to what the community thinks. I've never heard this before until today. To me (I'll never claim to be a mechanic) it seems like it would work but doesn't the radiator cool the hot coolant? Like hot in, cool out?To test for a bad radiator use a infrared thermometer. At running temps check the top of the radiator and then the bottom. If there is more than a 20* difference chances are the radiator needs to be replaced/cleaned.
Sorry, but I'm not following. If the radiator has more than a 20 degree cooling impact you say it needs cleaning/replacing? Are you assuming that this means that the radiator is plugged and getting reduced flow? I guess it could be, but you wouldn't be maintaining normal coolant temps (190-195) if it were. So I would think that this test would be ONLY if you have unexplained lack of cooling. Looking at your data, you are getting a 44 degree drop and seem to be maintaining proper coolant temps. I would say you are fine.
Using an infrared gun could have merits to pinpoint a section of a radiator that is plugged. Slowly scanning back and forth, up and down looking for large temp swings compared to nearby areas, could show you the extend of the blockage.
Provided you can get clear access to measure.
Providing YOU knew the flow rates across all the tubes.
Heat exchanger design and values have a whole host of variables, fluid flow rates, air flow rates, specific heat of the coolant (medium), proportionality of medium being cooled and by what to some extent.
This would work if there was data based on field-testing. 10 people took values and recorded the base coolant T, air T, absolute humidity, engine RPM (for coolant flow rate), fan rpm (for air flow rate) and probably a few other things Mark K would better understand. Unless Mark K already knows the coolant heat exchanger's delta
But just giving a value like 20F, for all vehicles isn't going to work. It's going to be very vehicle model specific in any case if you want to get into the gritty.
We, as mere mortals not heat transfer engineers, would not. I'm just saying we would have to document the variables we can and document the delta on a new vehicle and use that as a benchmark. We would then need to have peoples results with clogged units and excessive heat issues to document theirs. Or we just have a comfort point. New we saw a 50°F delta, at 25°F I'm going to replace it. Or whatever value you want.
Just saying you can't grab an internet value and go for it.
I've just been doing cooling fan work on our Lincoln LS, a PITA vehicle that is well known for its undersized radiator. During the winter when I was observing the temp normal highway driving resulted in 192°F, could go to 240°F sitting in traffic with a bad fan. Now during the summer, highway with working fan (PWM control at 0) is 220°F. Sitting in traffic with fan working (PWM at 40%) is 210°F. I don't think it's delta is going to be the same as the PS. Maybe it is, but the variables have a wide effect.
Sorry guys, I think I carried this discussion a little too far, too obstructionist.. The previous night and yesterday my body was not doing too well and as my wife has said, I get a little onry. Actually on some occasions she has another term.
I would think that one could also just drain and stuff a video bore scope in
and look for any obstructions at the channel openings. Also doing all the
normal cleaning of the outside of the radiator will help there too.