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That aggravating 99-03 SD warped rotor problem solved

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Old 06-10-2017, 05:04 PM
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Thumbs up That aggravating 99-03 SD warped rotor problem solved

With the understanding that the front brakes generate up to 75% of a vehicle’s stopping force, as a result, they generate much more heat, over 500°F in heavy braking. Don't assume your warped rotor issues are solely up front.

Our 2002 diesel crew cab long bed 4x4 F350 SRW was exhibiting the classic and aggravating "rotor warp pulsations" upon braking. To both the driver and front passenger, the vibrations appeared to be coming from the front end so we focused on that first.

We completed a couple of DITY front brake jobs, rotors, pads, sliding pin lubes, and a front wheel bearing assembly replacement (one FWBA was sloppy at 93,000 miles). We properly broke in the rotors and pads. We initially tried high performance slotted drilled rotors with ceramic pads, on the 2nd try went back to OEM Motorcraft rotors and semi-metallic pads. These included front and rear two-step torque wrench assisted lug bolt tightening sequences following torque stick controlled impact wrench lug tightening, on the on the forged OEM alloy wheels with 285/75-R16 tires. Disappointing - No dice after two tries - slight reduction in vibration but problem continued.

Then we focused on the rear axle, putting new rear rotors and semi-metallic pads on and re-torqued the rear lug bolts on the forged OEM alloy wheels, and road tested the truck. Voila! problem solved it was largely the rear rotors that were the problem all along.

Finding - despite the fact that front brakes generate up to 75% of a vehicle’s stopping force, they generate much more heat, over 500°F in heavy braking, it is still possible to develop to develop warped rear rotors.

The Super Duty trucks have robust rotors/brakes. Over the low-mileage life of the truck, we engaged in gentle braking and routinely de-selected Overdrive to assist in braking, didn't do much towing, but occasionally carried heavy in-spec loads in the bed. We neglected to swap out the rear rotors and brakes in the troubleshooting process. The pads has 60% life on them at 93,000 miles mostly highway miles.

Hope this post helps a 99-03 F250/F350 owner with warped brake rotor issues.
 
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Old 06-10-2017, 06:11 PM
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Another thing to check is how the pads ride in the bracket. They need to float but with tension from the spring clips keeping them off the rotor during brake retraction. Oxidation dirt etc... gets between the bracket and the metal spring clips. This closes the gap the pads are riding in which in-turn binds the inner (typically) pad in the bracket preventing it from retracting when you let off the brake pedal. Thus it stays engaged on the rotor super heating the whole assembly rather efficiently. I've seen this melt axle seals. Some will file or grind off 10-20 thou from the pad ears (5/side or 10 /side) along with liberally greasing both sides of the spring clip. Before you install the pad fit it into the bracket and check for ease of movement. Many times the slider pins are blamed for this problem.
This applies to all 4 corners, not just the rears. The permanent fix would be stainless inserts machined into the bracket and using stainless spring clips as well as reducing the pad ear dimension a bit. In the salt belt, all bets are off. Your only defense is to pull them apart annually and check for this. Don't worry Ford will stick with this design for another 20 years so this info will be relevant for a while.
 
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Old 06-10-2017, 07:06 PM
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common problem

common solution.

its an interconnecting system..
troubleshoot the system.. not just part of the system.

short cuts cost more money.. most of the time.

maybe someone will read your report and learn something.
 
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Old 06-21-2017, 07:31 PM
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Thumbs up Good points...

@droldsmorland: Thank you. Good points. In our case, the brake pads has sufficient clearance to not bind in the caliper housings/or by tight retaining clips, and the slider pins were OK/re-lubed.

Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Another thing to check is how the pads ride in the bracket. They need to float but with tension from the spring clips keeping them off the rotor during brake retraction. Oxidation dirt etc... gets between the bracket and the metal spring clips. This closes the gap the pads are riding in which in-turn binds the inner (typically) pad in the bracket preventing it from retracting when you let off the brake pedal. Thus it stays engaged on the rotor super heating the whole assembly rather efficiently. I've seen this melt axle seals. Some will file or grind off 10-20 thou from the pad ears (5/side or 10 /side) along with liberally greasing both sides of the spring clip. Before you install the pad fit it into the bracket and check for ease of movement. Many times the slider pins are blamed for this problem.
This applies to all 4 corners, not just the rears. The permanent fix would be stainless inserts machined into the bracket and using stainless spring clips as well as reducing the pad ear dimension a bit. In the salt belt, all bets are off. Your only defense is to pull them apart annually and check for this. Don't worry Ford will stick with this design for another 20 years so this info will be relevant for a while.
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 08:14 AM
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One further note: “Warped" rotors really isn’t a thing. 99.9% of the time the problem is that the rotors have worn unevenly. This can be caused by things like poor manufacturing, poor materials, heat, etc., but it can also be caused by *lack* of use, i.e. the surface rust accumulates unevenly due to the pads, the way the truck sits, and so on - when the brakes start being used again they can experience uneven wear. So don’t assume that low mileage rotors won’t have uneven wear issue.
 
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