I need to replace the front and rear brake pads, the rotors are all good. Is there an after market pads that u guys recommend that will perform better than the oem pads? Ford quoted $ 100.00 (parts only) for the set of front pads.

I read on this forum about the ART pads and rotor, can I use the ART pads with the stock Ford rotors?

Help need to replace the pads asap, Ford tech told me I only have 3 mm pads left on the front.

 

I replaced the rotors and pads on my X for the 4 time (90,000 miles ) with Hawk pads and PowerSlot rotors. They now have about 10,000 miles on them and have already warped AGAIN! The 3 sets of OEM rotors and pads got about the same mileage before warping. The hard truth is the X brake system is poorly designed.

 

Actually rotors don't warp and cause this, but they wear a thin region in the rotor due to the pads touching the maximum axial runout of the rotor. It's usually 2 places 180° apart with the inner and outer rotor surfaces. The pulsation you feel is the hydraulic pressure and torque variation as you pass through the transition from thin to thick. Vehicles like this with a high scrub radius are more prone to the issue resulting in steering wheel nibble when it's the front rotors.

This is typically a problem for people who do a lot of highway driving as the wear during braking (on-brake) is low and the abrasion during highway driving (of-brake) catches up. One solution is to use a vary abrasive brake pad so the wear during braking is high enough to wear the rotors true.

But the route cause is that the pads do not have enough clearance to the rotor when the are supposed to retract. While caliper sliding pins can have a great effect on this, this particular brake design has a bigger issue with the pad's ends getting rusty and locking in the torque brackets. The clearance is taken up and the pads do not move freely. Those V-Spring installed from 2001 on were supposed to aid in this, but they cannot overcome the amount of hangup the rusted pad ends create.

The brakes need to be inspected every two years or sooner (if in high corrosion areas) with the ends cleaned and greased if needed. It's not unusual to find you need to hammer out the pads from the torque brackets due to the rust build up.

 

The most important thing that you can do to prevent rotor warp is to insure that the lug nuts are torqued properly. Ford reduced the torque specs on the lugs several years ago. Other Ex owners have found that proper lug torque nearly eliminated warped rotor problems.

 

I went with ceramic pads from a local NAPA dealer. As I recall the fronts were about $70. Been very happy with the results-much better stopping-less dust.

 

Just wondering where folks who have brake rotor and pad problems think you fall on this 'scale' of early vs. late braking? Do you let off the 'gas' early and let your speed bleed off before applying the brakes (long before you get to the red light or stop sign)? Or do you come up to the stopping point at nearly 'full' speed and then apply the brakes?

Someone mentioned this concept to me once and I find that before buying the 7.3PSD X, I was a 'late braker' who came flying up to the intersection (we're not talking about panic or emergency stops) and really leaned into the brakes. Even had those metal guards to prevent brake dust from accumulating on my wheels (Durango with the 5.9). When I got the diesel, I became obsessed with trying to maximize the mileage and starting backing off the throttle early and braking as gently as possible to try and 'time' lights, etc. Does this has an effect on rotor warping, etc?

So -- are you an early braker or a late braker?

 

I also went with the ceramic pads from a locoal PepBoys. Haven't had any problems with em, less dust, and never had warped rotors yet. From when I bought it used with 50k on it till now with 74k on it - the brakes have been great.

 

Called Napa their ceramix pads made by United brakes has lifetime warranty for $ 81.00 for the front. The parts guy told me that he has the same pad on his Suburban and made a comment of that it hardly wears out. I think I'll go for the Napa ceramix. Oh btw I called applied Rotor Technolgy twice to ask more detailed question regarding their pads, I am still waiting for the reply.

 

When I bought mine, ART was a one-man shop. He's out of the office for several days at a time.... but he always returned calls. Just give him a little time.

 

I have 75,000 miles on my '03 X with original pads and rotors. I always rotate tires and specify 165# torque on front lugs. I rotate evry 5,000 miles, and usually notice a little warped rotor feeling around the 4500 mile mark.
03' 4x4 EB 6.0L

 

I have an 03 X and found the stock brakes about a "5". (10 being Best). I changed to Performancefriction.com Carbon metallic Pads. Braking was up graded to an "8". I now have 20000 miles - rotors are perfect - very little wear on pads - virtually not dust and super braking. PFC pads all around go for a $100.

Good braking,Richard Knoxville,Tn