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P0022 cam

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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 09:01 PM
  #1  
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P0022 cam

So quick question I can post the video but figured this may be easy to explain.

My wifes 06 expidition 5.43v runs rough loud and dies. Not all the time just when it's to hot. I got a code it's p0022 cam sensor. I changed both started the rig up and heard loud rattling like metal maybe chain. It lasted for a the length of my video 1.4mins give or take then went fine, i turned the car off and back on everything seems fine. I know I got her oil done after driving from AK through canada to North Dakota. She had metal/plastic in her oil. I had all plugs done and actually i re did the 8th cylinder plug because it was miss firing and i pulled it by hand with only the socket no ratchet.

Suggestions feedback? I'm thinking the chain is going bad if not already bad. Only 113k miles my 04 f150 5.43v lasted 250k before motor swap


cheers
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by shaggyb00m
So quick question I can post the video but figured this may be easy to explain.

My wifes 06 expidition 5.43v runs rough loud and dies. Not all the time just when it's to hot. I got a code it's p0022 cam sensor. I changed both started the rig up and heard loud rattling like metal maybe chain. It lasted for a the length of my video 1.4mins give or take then went fine, i turned the car off and back on everything seems fine. I know I got her oil done after driving from AK through canada to North Dakota. She had metal/plastic in her oil. I had all plugs done and actually i re did the 8th cylinder plug because it was miss firing and i pulled it by hand with only the socket no ratchet.

Suggestions feedback? I'm thinking the chain is going bad if not already bad. Only 113k miles my 04 f150 5.43v lasted 250k before motor swap


cheers
You've just answered your question there, with the quote highlighted in bold red. It's time to do some replacement of the timing drive components, by the sounds of what you've described. What other parts internal to this engine are you aware of, that are made of plastic?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 09:52 PM
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Ya I kind of figured... Just really needed the confirmation of that ;p ...guess i may to take it to some mechanic to do that work.

Not sure what internal parts are plastic on this engine, i'm no mechanic i just replace parts on mine and hers to keep them alive. I know on hers it died 3 times today and finally gave the p0022 code so i figured i would change the cam sensors. I've been told once those go back your SOL on the 5.4 3v engines.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 09:59 PM
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Go ahead and drop oil pan look for plastic jamming oil pu screen .

Most likely chains eating timing cover . Timing job for sure . It's not that bad if you are willing .
You've just run across another common problem ,loose plugs . Failure to torque them in to 25 foot pounds . Number 4 and 8 especially since even the shops don't like to do the hard ones let alone do it right .
If you look at postings you are right there with others . Full timing oem parts around $1400 if done right . Oem select ebay and some parts on amazon .
Plus you are in super cold country and it seems people don't change their oil often enough because of the cold . We have noticed a severe amount of sludge in canada engines like choc cake frosting . I guess the running at near 200 degrees then every night way below zero condensed water in oil . Point is a lot of clean up and failure of oil getting to the necessary parts . This engine already has flow problems . Recommend old style ratcheting metal tensioners that don't have seals to blow out plus a melling 340 or 360 oil pump .
Come back if you decide to tackle it, most people can do it .This forum has got good people to help out .
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 10:05 PM
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Ya I have a master mechanic friend back in AK that always helps and can tell me whats wrong everytime but not i'm here lol.... I try and do her oil every 2,000 miles just because mine had 250,000 miles when i finally did the engine. I need hers to last a lil longer. I know when I did the number 8 plug it pi**ed me off because i paid $900 2 or 3 months ago for this place to do them. I hadn't got the courage to try them don't have the spark puller tool, but my f150 needs the plugs done so her car is the ginnie pig LOL!

cheers to both of you thanks!
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 10:26 PM
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Just saw your last post .

This engine can be saved usually , but to have it done the labor/parts will eat you . A reman usually runs $7500 installed, hard choices . We have talked novices thru this even recently . Forget a junk yard engine, too expensive and too many miles .
The chain guides are plastic . New plastic tensioners blow their seals out lowering oil pressure providing even less tension on chains . Chains stretch and start whipping and break guides ,plastic falls down to oil pan blocking oil pu screen reducing oil pressure some more . Chain can jump time , lash adjusters and rollers starving for oil . Chain starts eating aluminum cover etc .
Cam sensors tell you phasors aren't working as commanded . The pcm electric pulses vcts to release dirty engine oil to hydraulically move phasors /cams . The small screens and passages get clogged with dirt from the carbon from combustion . So now you know why not to do extended oil changes and to use full syn no more than 5k . Use a lower number vis as per your book for your climate location during winter .
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 10:31 PM
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Lisle tool should be on hand if orig plugs

Runs around $ 60 on amazon . Plugs/boots must be done correctly , always put new boots on . Read ford TSB on plugs change . Use vin to make sure you put the right redesigned plugs/boots in there .
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by redfishtd
This engine can be saved usually , but to have it done the labor/parts will eat you . A reman usually runs $7500 installed, hard choices . We have talked novices thru this even recently . Forget a junk yard engine, too expensive and too many miles .
The chain guides are plastic . New plastic tensioners blow their seals out lowering oil pressure providing even less tension on chains . Chains stretch and start whipping and break guides ,plastic falls down to oil pan blocking oil pu screen reducing oil pressure some more . Chain can jump time , lash adjusters and rollers starving for oil . Chain starts eating aluminum cover etc .
Cam sensors tell you phasors aren't working as commanded . The pcm electric pulses vcts to release dirty engine oil to hydraulically move phasors /cams . The small screens and passages get clogged with dirt from the carbon from combustion . So now you know why not to do extended oil changes and to use full syn no more than 5k . Use a lower number vis as per your book for your climate location during winter .
My 04 150 I had a friend do it for $1k because he owed me one lol... Engine remain was $3900. He didn't realise the front end had to come out in order to pull motor so I paid him extra but all in all 1k 1month worth it. No rust on my truck with 280k miles now.. New tranny 5k miles ago $1329 from bestbuytransmissions
 
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