400/434 valvetrain
#16
Finally found root cause of this thing coming apart... After disassembly of the heads I found 2 valves with rotators so FML... Waiting on single groove valves and 10* retainers, locks, and new Springs to come in. Rod on#4 is definitely toast so shopping rods or gonna recon another of my multiple sets and slap in some ARP rods bolts again... Shoulda checked the guys work when I got heads back first time but hey 4 years and lots of spray? Surprised heads held up this long
#23
#24
Get some good one piece stainless valves and get rid of the rotators. Check retainer to guide clearance. Have the heads milled for spring seat cups, p.c. seals, studs and guide plates if you going to run it hard or better yet, look for a set of Australian heads so you can get some real compression out of it.
#25
Get some good one piece stainless valves and get rid of the rotators. Check retainer to guide clearance. Have the heads milled for spring seat cups, p.c. seals, studs and guide plates if you going to run it hard or better yet, look for a set of Australian heads so you can get some real compression out of it.
#26
Check piston to valve, spring bind, spring installed height, retainer to guide clearance, valve seal clearance, rocker clearance all the way through the cycle. Check all the valve tip heights, make sure they are all within .005. Degree the cam in too, don't just take the hand that is dealt to you, you make your own luck in engine building. If you are going to really lean on it I'd get the heads cut for spring seat cups, those springs will need a lot more stability with high revs. Check push rod length, aftermarket cams could be ground on a different base circle than a stock one and with milling the block, heads, seat and valve grinding you probably have way too many things changed for it to use the stock length and don't forget to add the lifter preload figure (I use .030) to the length you come up with.
#27
Check piston to valve, spring bind, spring installed height, retainer to guide clearance, valve seal clearance, rocker clearance all the way through the cycle. Check all the valve tip heights, make sure they are all within .005. Degree the cam in too, don't just take the hand that is dealt to you, you make your own luck in engine building. If you are going to really lean on it I'd get the heads cut for spring seat cups, that spring will need a lot more stability with high revs. Check push rod length, aftermarket cams can ground on a different base circle than a stock one and with milling the block, heads, seat and valve grinding you got too many things changed for it to use the stock length and don't forget to add the lifter preload figure (I use .030) to the length you come up with.
#28
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