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Me and the wife are stranded on the side of the road in our 69F 100 the Ignition switch has went out we went to the auto-parts store and got a new Ignition switch but we cannot get the Tumblr into the switch... any tips... it getting dark
The ones I'm familiar with, there is a small hole in the front. Insert the key and turn all the way to the left to ACC. Insert a straightened paper clip in the hole and push. Should pop right out. Installation is the reverse, basically.
Could start the truck using the new switch, without the key or tumbler, if necessary?
Do you have access to a paper clip or a piece of tie wire? (copied and pasted)
Take a medium size paper clip and open up one end so you have a little shaft. Put the key into the ignition and turn to the left to accessories. Put the paper clip punch or shaft into the little hole and feel around until you feel it go in about a 1/8" continue to turn key assembly counter-clockwise until the tumbler assembly comes out with the key. Lay that aside somewhere. Turn the Bezel Counter-Clockwise while reaching under the dash to hold the switch itself. Unscrew the Bezel. Drop the switch down. Release tabs that hold the harness gang-plug to the switch. Reverse the entire procedure. When you get the Bezel back in and tight, take the key with the tumbler slide it straight in and to the right and it will snap into place and you are done.
If you can't get it to work, turn the key to RUN and mebbe jump the solenoid?
Me and the wife are stranded on the side of the road in our 69 F100.
The ignition switch has went out, we went to the auto-parts store and got a new ignition switch (which type?) but we cannot get the tumbler into the switch.
Any tips? It's getting dark.
The original 1968/69 F100/750 & Passenger Car; 1970 F100/750 (before serial number F90,001) ignition switch (C8AZ-11572-A) shorted out and caught fire!
1970: FoMoCo replaced it with a new switch kit (D1AZ-11572-C / MotorcraftSW-1054) that included a pigtailed wire harness w/plug.
It plugged into the switch, then pigtailed wires were spliced into the existing wiring harness.
There were no US Gov't mandated recalls back then, it was up to the dealers to inform the customers of the POS switch and its replacement.
Some dealers did, but some did not. So, if your switch does not have spliced wires, it's the original POS!
I was able to go in to the store and get a paper clip, I also found it much easier to install the ignition switch in the dash THEN install the tumbler instead of trying to hold it.
Thanks every one!!!! Got her home.... BUT still ended up arching the silanoid... got a new one... low and behold the side post are WAY too short to accommodate all the hot wires.... going to need a cupler of some sort.
If you can't get it out or in tumbler out or in as your watching the sun go down.
an you say your stuck on the road side.
A fast lesson learned waiting to get home before tinkering with trying to install the new part.
If you can't get the old girl started then, I'd would just Hot wire the old girl by just running a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the coil+ side an then use a screw drive, crossed the large+ term. on the solenoid an the closest small terminal.
This will engage the starter. Remove jumper wire to kill engine .
Orich
Newer replacement switch
Old fire starter switch
Ok so some more fun stuff, got the new solenoid installed, truck cranked up, go to shut it off, no luck... so I go pull the battery cable... STILL running, then I pull the coil wire and it shuts down... WTH is going on now????
If you can't get it out or in tumbler out or in as your watching the sun go down.
an you say your stuck on the road side.
A fast lesson learned waiting to get home before tinkering with trying to install the new part.
If you can't get the old girl started then, I'd would just Hot wire the old girl by just running a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the coil+ side an then use a screw drive, crossed the large+ term. on the solenoid an the closest small terminal.
This will engage the starter. Remove jumper wire to kill engine .
Orich
]
There should be a resistor between the battery and the coil. Otherwise the coil might burn out.
Ok.... more fun. So last night after it got dark I decided to call it a night. Got up this morning to find out why the truck wouldn't shut of, I crank it... it starts but starter won't disengage no matter what position the switch is in. I disconnect the coil to stop engine, Engine dies but truck is still turning over, disconnect ground, and it stops. Do you think it is the new ignition switch... or could the new solenoid cause that?
Every think is hooked up the same as when it was running well.
Many times the new Chinese solenoids are junk. I have seen it where for some reason the contacts fuse together so the starter keeps turning over. Some say due to low battery voltage.
Many times the new Chinese solenoids are junk. I have seen it where for some reason the contacts fuse together so the starter keeps turning over. Some say due to low battery voltage.
Man I wish I could get decent parts for this thing It would make life a lot easier. I will swap out the ignition with the old one just to rule that out as an issue, then go get yet ANOTHER solenoid and try it.
I also need to find a way to properly extend the side post of the solenoid it has a hard time fitting all the hots.
Ok so I went out and put the old ignition in to check to see if that was the issue, check that every thing was good, went to reconnect the batter and it tried to crank on it's own. The solenoid has to be stuck or something... man these things are made like garbage. Going to get another one.
I dissected a new one I had sitting on a shelf , for about a year, when it wouldn't work. Steel contacts all rusted. Now, when I visit a junkyard I collect Motorcraft ones.
