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Ok so I went out and put the old ignition in to check to see if that was the issue, check that every thing was good, went to reconnect the batter and it tried to crank on it's own. The solenoid has to be stuck or something... man these things are made like garbage. Going to get another one.
Auto parts store parts are mostly made in China. The dizzy condensers and starter solenoids are CRAP!
Find a boxed Ford or Standard NOS or NORS solenoid on FleaBay. MAYBE a local shop has a dusty one on a shelf somewhere. Ford type starter solenoid was used for decades on a whole bunch of stuff, not just Fords, so they are out there, and not too much money. Electrical and Ignition parts - always buy the good stuff.
The quality solenoids are noticeably heavier with solid copper posts. Next make sure ALL starter, solenoid, grounds, cables, and connections to starter, block, frame, and firewall are clean bright and shiny tight down to bare metal. The solenoid itself also needs a good ground to the fender or firewall. If cables are old replace them. The drug store replacement battery and ground cables in the blister packs are JUNK. Then charge the battery up with a charger overnight. Even new or late model trucks, if they get any corrosion on the electrical connections and grounds it will cause all kinds of trouble so it's no surprise what happens on these old trucks.
So I just got back inspecting one of my rental houses, I'm getting back to work on ol Ruthie. I bought a "gold" duralast solenoid this time. So the original is dead, the second one beep on the multi meter when you put red to the "I" terminal and black to the ground side... the newest one doesn't do that....
Alright time to go get my hands dirty.
What happens if you jump the hot battery post to the start terminal on the solenoid?
As mentioned above, check all connections. Esp. grounds.
Come to think of it, it was a Duralast Gold I had the was NG . It didn't last...
OK, so it looks like I was dealing with a bunch of issues all at once.... bad solenoid, fixed... loose ground to starter....fixed.... bad ignition switch and tumbler... fixed.....
AND the thing that kept showing up intermittently.... I think it is the neutral safety switch, not sure what it is called, you know so it wont start out of park?
So it would crank then not crank over and over, you know how back in the day you would hold the gear lever hard up in to the park so it would start, well this was opposite, I actually pulled down a little with the key engaged.... and Vroom!
So it looks like I was chasing like 5 problems at once. Think I have it figured out now, just need to know what in the column I need to replace
From what I understand (earlier post) you disconnected the (+) BATT cable and she still ran, correct? That's a BIG no-no! Many moons ago it was common the disconnect the (+) terminal from the battery to check if the generator was charging and kept the engine running. NOT ANY MORE! When one disconnects the (+) BATT cable from a running engine, this causes a voltage spike that can and will fry sensitive electronics...a regulator (especially if one has a 3g upgrade), fancy new radios, mebbe even a fusible link.....
Something to check is that fusible link connecting to the solenoid.
Solenoid remedies: If the vehicle still wants to crank after started, or runs with the key off, betcha credits to Navy beans the contacts in the solenoid are semi soldered closed, allowing those electrons to travel around their merry way. This happens occasionally and what I do is smack the solenoid a few times, depending on my mood, with a plastic screwdriver handle. Most times it will free up the contacts.
Agree with Tedster9 on double checking the grounds, connections, etc....check the BATTERY terminals again for any little bit of corrosion.
I gather you didn't see where Bill (Numberdummy) posted the solenoid FORD part number? And posted it's available from Ford?
FORD parts ARE NOT made in China.