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I have a 79 f150 4x4 with a 400m and had a solenoid stick and get the starter hot before I could get it unhooked. While I got the solenoid fixed the starter Definately took some abuse so I took it off and went to my local rebuilder. After some time talking I found that I could upgrade to a more powerful gear reduction starter for less than the rebuild and it smaller size and less weight. For you guys wanting to look into this a 460 starter for a 93 460 engine bolts directly up. Just need one for manual or auto depending on what you have. As for the wiring it gets really simple One hot cable from battery to fender solenoid and one that same post attach the one from the starter so the big post on the starter is always hot. On the other side of the fender solenoid attach a 10 gauge wire to the small post on the starter then when you turn the key with the factory wiring set up it still engages the starter This should help with room for headers later. Hope this information helps and I know I learn a ton everyday from this forum
I have a 79 f150 4x4 with a 400m and had a solenoid stick and get the starter hot before I could get it unhooked. While I got the solenoid fixed the starter Definately took some abuse so I took it off and went to my local rebuilder. After some time talking I found that I could upgrade to a more powerful gear reduction starter for less than the rebuild and it smaller size and less weight. For you guys wanting to look into this a 460 starter for a 93 460 engine bolts directly up. Just need one for manual or auto depending on what you have. As for the wiring it gets really simple One hot cable from battery to fender solenoid and one that same post attach the one from the starter so the big post on the starter is always hot. On the other side of the fender solenoid attach a 10 gauge wire to the small post on the starter then when you turn the key with the factory wiring set up it still engages the starter This should help with room for headers later. Hope this information helps and I know I learn a ton everyday from this forum
Thanks-good to know...
Might a guy run the large lead from the back side of the starter solenoid (OEM style) and run a jumper from the large to small starter lugs? That's the way my 77 460 starter is set up. Don't know why-somebody else did it...
After I got tired of pulling the "Life Time Garanty starter out every two years I put in a Power Master gear reduction unit and it has been in for years. I'm going through the original solenoid to the one on the starter.
If you can find a genuine OEM unit at the junkyard, I'll bet dollars against doughnuts that it will outlast a McParts store reman.
I have retrofitted the newer starter on my Mustang. I wired mine the way Henry wired the donor:
Move the original/existing starter cable from the switched lug on the solenoid/Fender-Mounted Starter Relay, to the always-hot lug, where the battery + cable is fastened.
Then run the smaller "trigger" wire from the switched lug on the fender 'noid to the spade terminal on the Starter-Mounted relay/solenoid...
I'll bet there are as many of these starter retrofits running around which are wired as PapaBearYuma described, as there are which are wired as I described. But I prefer to wire stuff as close to OEM as possible. I don't know why Ford wired it the way they did, but I suspect that their way is easier on the Starter-Mounted solenoid? I've never seen a Starter-Mounted solenoid fail on a Ford, but I sure have on GM products...
This is the size difference between the 93 460 gear reduction starter that will die the 351m or 400m engines. There is a difference between auto and manual trans starters so make sure to get the right one for your application. The orange is a fiberglass heat sleeve to protect the new battery cable
This is the size difference between the 93 460 gear reduction starter that will die the 351m or 400m engines. There is a difference between auto and manual trans starters so make sure to get the right one for your application. The orange is a fiberglass heat sleeve to protect the new battery cable
Is the new style able to function without the grease and grime?
Vehicles with a remote solenoidfor the battery cable (includes most Ford/AMC applications): There are two methods forwiring a RobbMc starter with a Ford style remote solenoid/relay. Method 1 isrecommended because it is simpler, doesn't require a diode, and extends thelife of the remote solenoid.
IMPORTANT: Donot use a short “jumper” wire to connect the small post to the large post onthe RobbMc solenoid. Installing a jumper wire on a permanent magnet motor canresult in current feedback. This will result in starter failure. http://www.robbmcperformance.com/ins...nIIstarter.doc
METHOD 1:(Recommended)
Note: The small wires connected to thesmall "I" and "S" terminals on the remote solenoid do notchange and remain the same as stock. Dave ----
BTW I use one of his starters on my AMC motored drag car and never had any issues.
This is exactly how I wired it up and everything works great. Move heavy starter cable to the constant hot post on solenoid and run a ten gauge or larger wire from the other side of the starter solenoid to small post of the new starter. Doesn't change the wiring on the truck and takes all the load off the fender mounted solenoid. Failures should be a thing of the past
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