A/c compressor intermittent working
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A/c compressor intermittent working
Hello all. I have a 2003 f250 6.0. Recently, I have noticed that my air conditioner will work at first but once the compressor cycles off it does not come back on. I end up having to turn the a/c controls to off and wait about 5 min then turn them back on and it will work for a about 5 min then blow warm air again. This happens more when towing rather than just driving around. I have changed out the sensor on the canister but it was no help. The system is charged to the correct level according to my gauge. This occurs more often on hotter days than any.
While the truck has been running and the system is malfunctioning, I have crawled under the truck and noticed the center wheel of the compressor is not turning but can be turned by hand. Do I need a new compressor or am I missing something else that would be simpler? Any help you all have is appreciated.
While the truck has been running and the system is malfunctioning, I have crawled under the truck and noticed the center wheel of the compressor is not turning but can be turned by hand. Do I need a new compressor or am I missing something else that would be simpler? Any help you all have is appreciated.
Hotshot
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From: Jersey Shore
The friction material of the clutch has worn, and after a few minutes of cycling it slips. There is a spec for clearance and there are shim kits that are very inexpensive to reset the proper clearance. I'm away from home, but there have been threads on this subject in this forum before.
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I will check the pressures first chance I get. I looked on the forums here, but I couldn't find anyone with similar issue that posted what fixed theirs.
As for the shims, can this be checked and fixed with the compressor on the truck or will it have to be removed?
As for the shims, can this be checked and fixed with the compressor on the truck or will it have to be removed?
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I have also noticed that when the engine compartment gets hot, this happens more. But once the engine cools some while idling, the compressor goes back to working normally. Would the increased heat be affecting any of the electrical components?
I watched my temps closely with the torque app and the highest temps I had was 225 oil and 212 water while towing when this happened this last time. The engine compartment was hot and I couldn't tough anything in there until it cooled back down to 190 oil and 185 water.
I watched my temps closely with the torque app and the highest temps I had was 225 oil and 212 water while towing when this happened this last time. The engine compartment was hot and I couldn't tough anything in there until it cooled back down to 190 oil and 185 water.
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Ok. Thank you all very much for the quick replies. I will check those pressures first.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Jefferson, Iowa
Does your fan work properly? Do you get a fan speed input on your monitor? As said either the system is cutting out on high head pressure or the clutch gap needs tightened up. Get your gauges connected and go for a drive. Your high side should be 1.8 to 2.2 times ambient temp. If its higher suspect fan, condenser coil air side blockage, condenser coil blockage or orfice tube is blocked.
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Does your fan work properly? Do you get a fan speed input on your monitor? As said either the system is cutting out on high head pressure or the clutch gap needs tightened up. Get your gauges connected and go for a drive. Your high side should be 1.8 to 2.2 times ambient temp. If its higher suspect fan, condenser coil air side blockage, condenser coil blockage or orfice tube is blocked.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Jefferson, Iowa
I think even the dash gauges would be reading high, I dont know if it shuts off the air but i believe around 250 eot the pcm starts to defuel. What are the temps with a high ambient temp?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Upper Left Coast
Hello all. I have a 2003 f250 6.0. Recently, I have noticed that my air conditioner will work at first but once the compressor cycles off it does not come back on. I end up having to turn the a/c controls to off and wait about 5 min then turn them back on and it will work for a about 5 min then blow warm air again.
Before you start checking pressures, to rule out the clutch, connect either a volt meter or a test light to the clutch A+ wire and determine if the clutch is still powered when the A/C starts blowing warm air.
If the clutch is still powered but not engaging, the clutch is defective (or the gap is excessive etc)
If the clutch is NOT powered, then look for the reasons it might not be powered which could be more than a few.
Cheers,
Rick
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Recent update, I did remove the shim behind the clutch plate after I found that the air gap was out of specs. There was only one but I reassembled the clutch and the air gap fell within specs and has worked properly ever since. Thank you all for all your help.
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