Hello and ty for any help

I have a 2010 explorer 4.0 v6

Everything was fine then while going to the store i lost power
Put my foot to the floor and was going no where

I turned around tried to make it home. Truck died

Towed it home as it would not start

Friend put reader on it came up with alot of codes
Fixed everything it said
I.e
. o2 sensor
MASS sensor

Well here is the problem
It starts now BUT
RUNS WAY ROUGH

Put reader on it and it is reading i need to replace
MAP SENSOR

NO. Part store carries it .. Called ford deal they said my explorer does NOT. Have a MAP sensor

Why is it saying i need to replace it then
Still cant drive cause no power/ runs to rough

I thank you in advance for any help

 

There is no way for a "reader" to say that, you're interpreting something and assuming that it what it means, probably because you don't understand what's going on.

Post the EXACT DTCs that you are reading, not your interpretation or what your "reader" displays on its screen and that will allow us to provide informed advice instead of guesswork.

Your vehicle does not have a discrete MAP sensor, that's why you can't find one to buy.

 

I am now getting these 3 codes

I get this code twice
P0102
Mass or volume flow A circit low

p0106

Manifold absolute pressure / barometric pressure circuit range / performance

Again ty for your help
Im not to smart or handy when it comes to cars but i try
I am an older man but plz. Talk " dummie " for me so i can understand 😉
again thank you for helping

 

Did you perform a PCM reset after doing the previous parts swapping to make sure that any codes are "new", not from before the wrenching?

You need to resolve the P0102 first, then proceed to the P0106 afterwards if it still is present after a reset. FWIW, the MAP sensor is integrated into the EGR system module, it's not a separate sensor.

 

All was reset

The p0102 is the mass sensor .. Correct ?
That was changed
Will run all the codes again in a couple hrs when i get home
Again ty all for helping

 

Just because a part is new is not an assurance that it is actually good. It can only be declared to be "good" when it is proven to be so.

Check your connection at the MAF to make sure no pins are damaged and that the connector is fully seated.

 

ok got hom popped hood checked connection ( just to make sure ) unpluged plugged back in

connected the reader again
now the only code i am getting is still the
P0106

while out i went by parts store ( just to check ) to see how much a BARO sensor/ circuit would be
they again sain my truck has no MAP/ BARO

called ford dealer they said they had no idea i had to bring it in so they could test it ( at a cost of $149.00 to sest and $100 for towing )

im just at a loss no idea what or where to go / do

ty for all you are doing to help

 

I already told you you don't have that sensor that is individually replaceable.

Just because you have a fault code, that does NOT mean the part is bad. It means that the computer didn't like what it was seeing so it set an error code. That means the ACTUAL problem could be the source of the signal (sensor), the PATH of the signal (connections & wiring), the computer, or something else that is affecting one of those.

Fault codes are a STARTING point in diagnosing an issue, they are not a pinpoint indication of a bad part.

See post #4 for the location of your MAP sensor.

 

There is no MAP or Baro sensor for the engine. That system infers the barometric reading by the MAF reading at high throttle angles.
To properly reset it, you need to bring it up to temperature, clear the codes, then run it up a hill between 30 and 60mph at a minimum of half throttle. Do this a few times, and the computer will have it's baro reading, and will behave better.
If there are still issues, it will need some more in depth diagnosis.

 

Recheck your documentation for this specific vehicle's engine. Pay particular attention to the ESM's functions. See post #4.

 

ok this morning i tried everything i think you all are telling me
from post #4 i researched and found to do a PCM reset ... to take neg batt cable off for 20 min it would reset everything so i did

then after reconnecting my check engine light was NOT on and 0 codes found

cranked up truck and it started right up ... not ideling rough or anything
so i took it for a spin around the block

after about 1/2 a mile it started again
" chugging " even if put foot to floor i would go no where
then it would " rev " high then slam into gear
would never get past about 25 mph
then it died
after a few min of trying to start it finaly did
let it " coast" home

but now it sounds like it is out of oil ( like a lifter tapping )
dip sticks reads full
getting P0106 again
and ideling way rough again


im sorry if i am missing something you all are telling me
i now understand the function you are explaining about the MAP / BARO .. reading the MAF



not sure where to go from here being disabled and on fixed income cant afford $250 for towing n checking thats all before they even fix it


again ty for anymore info

 

You could try a new EGR System Module, they're about $120 if you order online. At a local dealer or parts store, it's going to run $200.

Note that this suggestion is without the benefit of an actual diagnosis, it's an educated guess only. If you choose to follow it instead of paying for a diagnosis and repair, you're on your own.

Good luck.

 

when looking up at the " rock " site for parts

would that be called the egr " valve" ( $87 ) as i search find nothing for system module

 

I was off a bit on my initial post. There is a MAP sensor, it is integral to the EGR valve and that whole assembly is the EGR module.
The EGV1055 EGR valve is the one you need.

 

cant thank you guys enough
i will istall it on Tuesday ( as the parts store here matches the " rock " sites prices )

so i will let you all know how it goes
again ty for your help