So I made a post earlier about my 1992 F250 with a 460 stopped shifting on my way to work. I pulled codes and I got 34,41,62... I also got code 67 I wasnt paying attention to the reader. I managed to fix 41, I replaced the EGR position sensor on the truck and still coming up with 34. I dont have 62 anymore but can code 67 cause my E4OD to not shift properly? After I put the new sensors in Drove it down the street. I shifted in to Drive, Neutral, Park, fine but It would not go past 2nd gear or if it did it wouldnt like it and refuse to go into 3rd and when I let off the gas it would go back in to 1st. So am I looking at a potential rebuild? or is t it the safety switch that is giving me issues?

I was told its an EGR issue but I am having difficulty connecting faulty EGR valve and Transmission not shifting.

Here is the link to the original thread for reference. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-anymore.html

 

Code 62 indicates excessive converter clutch slip detected.
62 will not case it not to shift.

67 could mean that you left the AC switch on during the test.

 

The AC was not running during the test

 

Service Code 67 indicates that during Self-Test, voltage was high on Neutral Drive Switch or its signal circuit (A/T) (Pin 30) or A/C Cycling switch (Pin 10) circuit.

 

So at this rate. It needs a new torque converter?

 

If you replace the torque converter it isn't going to shift any differently. The torque converter isn't involved with shifting.

With the trans in D, when you accelerate what happens? Does it shift 1-2? 2-3? 3-4? Does it start and stay in 2?

 

When I take off from a stop the truck does not want to shift from 1-2. I can get the RPM high enough 2500-3000 it will but as soon as I let off the gas it will go back in to 1st then I will try to make it shift again and it will chug like its tring to go back into 2nd but it cant and it wont go past 15-20 MPH.


I try to manually put int into 2nd but nothing happens and same with 1st.


If I can get it to stay into 2nd it wont go into 3rd or 4th.


Sorry my knowledge of transmissons is very limited :/

 

So when you put the shift handle it 2 all you have is neutral?

 

No it stays in gear.

 

So in 2 it only stays in second gear. That's how it is designed. It will never shift when the lever is in 2.

My SWAG* is that you don't have a vehicle speed signal. The trans will shift by engine RPM if it loses the vehicle speed.


*SWAG = Silly Wild A Guess

 

You really need a manual to diagnose this transmission. There are specific tests in a specific order.

If the fluid is trashed you probably can't fix it. Driving it after it shows problems is absolutely the worst thing you can do. Well, it maybe a tie. Taking it to a transmission shop could be the worst.

You can do the driving test and the electrical tests. That's about as far as you get before pressure tests.

The MLPS was used to scam many owners. If the MLPS is not right don't do anything else until you get it right.

Was the fluid ever changed? Did you check the MLPS?

ATSG is probably your best bet for a manual.

 

Some person that had 94 460 4X4 truck with a E4OD and was having problems, so he had the E4OD replaced. He replace the E4OD and then the problem got worse and it was doing what yours is doing. So he sold it to another guy that waned the 4X4 out of it and put the E4OD up for sale.
I bought the E4OD all ready pulled for $50.00. They just cut the harness back from the plugs to save time when they pulled it out. When I got it home the wire going into the plug on the passenger side just pulled out and I could see the wires had not been making contact with the pins. The E4OD was in great shape with very low mileage.

Log story short check the plug on the passenger side of the transmission. Also make sure the heat shield is in place over the plug after you get done looking at the plug.


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I posted a thread recently on how to repin the plugs, shadetree manner.

If the plugs and pins are messed up by improper handling the pins won't lock in the plugs anymore. When you plug-in the plug it just pushes the pins out instead of making connection.

The E4OD is tough. The plugs, switches and such are not so tough if mishandled.

Solenoids go bad too.

 

Looked into the connectors and what not everything is okay. I am just going to order a re manufactured one I found for $1200.00 with all the upgrades I wanted and have it installed.

 

Keep your old one if you can. Turn in something else as a core. You can do an oil analysis that will tell you if the trans has mechanical issues.

I am on my original transmission and it has lived a hard working life. I am on my third MLPS and third fluid change.

You are jumping from 1 to five and skipping two, three and four.