Summary: We purchased a 2015 Ford F150 with the idea we'd be buying a camper later. We looked at travel trailers but got a great deal on a 5th wheel. We plan on camping mostly on long weekends/holidays. Feedback welcome!

Tow Vehicle: 2015 Ford F-150 XLT 3.5L TT (356HP/420LB-FT) 4X4 FX4 SCREW, 3.55 w/ELD, Max Tow package, 6.5' bed, GVWR 7050LBS (Capacity 1699LBS). It's just me, the wife and the dog in the truck. Based on Ford towing selector, I should be within limits (10,100 Towing/16,100 GCWR) - http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...0_r1_Jan12.pdf

5th Wheel: 2018 Jayco Eagle HT RSTS (34' and loaded) - Estimated curb weight 8800. Here are the specs for the 2017 for estimates - https://www.jayco.com/products/fifth...heels/285rsts/

 

I've been towing fifth wheels for 20 years and there is no way in the world that I'd tow a 34' fifth wheel with a half-ton truck. They don't have the brakes or suspension for it. I had a similar weight 32' fifth wheel that I towed with an F-250 V-10, and even then I ended up changing the rear end from 3.73 to 4.30.

RV manufacturers are doing a terrible dis-service by advertising these as "half-ton towable". Notice that the "empty weight" doesn't include any propane, water, options, dealer installed accessories, or cargo. That "Dry Hitch Weight" also doesn't include any of those things, and most folks say to assume that 20-25% of your trailer weight will be on the hitch. I'll bet the hitch weight will be close to 2000 pounds once you're loaded and ready to go.

Also note that the Ford ratings assume a single 150 pound driver and NOTHING ELSE in the truck. No passengers, tools, hitch, etc. And though they don't state it they typically assume something like 1/8 tank of gas. The other big "gotcha" is the frontal area. At most Ford allows 75 square feet of front surface area on that truck. Your trailer is 8' wide and nearly 12' tall, which is more like 90 square feet. The first time you tow into a significant headwind you will be stunned at how poorly your truck handles it.

The only way to find out where you stand is to get your (heavy) hitch in the truck and get everything loaded up, then run it over a set of scales. I'd bet that you are going to be over on your rear axle and very likely on your GCWR as well.

Sorry to be a wet blanket but you are not the first to buy a trailer that is too large to safely tow (and more importantly stop) with an existing truck, and you won't be the last. I can't count the number of folks I know that started with a half-ton and ended up with a one-ton.

 

I know I am "sally safe" when it come to towing, but I have taken the time to speak directly with folks towing fivers with half-tons. Without exception, everyone said they could pull it, but were not positive about the handling. The dealerships I worked for would not have sold you this unit to tow with a half ton truck no matter what Ford says.

We have a 30-footer that scales at 9,000 pounds and just towed home with our F350 SRW through the winds in the recent storms here in the South. I am not saying we were blown off the road, but I would not have been comfortable in the combination you are planning.

Steve

 

I had one with a 26 ft pull behind. F150 and not sure but the deferential started to go out after the 4 pull. I then bought a F250 4x4 7.3 and that pulled it just fine. Then we upgraded to a 5er 34ft long and that made the F250 squat just a little when all was loaded. The 7.3 could pull it find but you have to make sure that you monitor the tranny temp and the EGT to ensure that you don't damage anything. We then purchased a 38 ft 5er and a F350 6.7 2012 and it hauls it perfectly and no squatting. Got the Curt Q20 for tight maneuvering, since the F350 SRW has a short bed.

 

In my opinion the trailer is too big/heavy for the truck, but I do see similar setups from time to time. I drive a 2000 7.3 F250 and tow a 2011 Montana high country 313re. The truck has had air bags installed, but they were only to keep the truck level. It only squared a couple of inches, but when you pull long distance that can make a difference.

If you decide to pull the trailer, give yourself 3 times the distance to stop and change your fluids 3 times as much.

Oh ya, I have the ZF6 manual transmission, so the trans temps are not a concern for me like they will be with yours.

 

OP, for short trips that don't involve elevation gain that setup might be OK. It's not one that I would want though. The thought of pulling that trailer with an F-150 through the mountains has me saying, "Nope, nope, nope."

 

Pulling that 5er with ANY 150 is NOT OK. It ain't the PULL, it's the "STOP".

 

Here's the way I conceptualize the relative importance of how things go on the road versus in the campground.

The campground issues are, to me, always of lesser importance as the worst that can happen, baring the totally bizarre, is you are uncomfortable if something doesn't work the way it should.

How things go on the road in terms of handling, braking, etc. is far more important because there you are talking about not only your safety, but the safety of other motorists who rely on us and our judgement to keep them safe.

That means the match up between truck and camper is really important. Whether I have five flat screens and lots of buttons to push when I am camped is way down my list.

Steve

 

I'll add my .02 and say you don't have enough truck. That 'estimated weigh' according to Jayco doesn't even include a 100 pound a/c, and probably doesn't include a 60 pound battery, two full 45 pound propane tanks or any water @ 8.3 ponds/gallon... and for sure nothing of a personal or maintenance nature such as hoses, cords, tools, spare tire, clothes, food, toys, etc, etc, etc. That 5er closes in on 10K real quick or the ~10,000 pound weight limit posted on the sticker on the LH side.

 

Heed the advice of these folks and do not attempt to pull that trailer with your 1/2 ton truck. If you do you and your wife may not live to regret it.

 

I made a comment like this once and a professional trucker said, "That's what the trailer brakes are for." There are MANY other concerns, though, including the rear axle and tire ratings on the truck, stability on uneven surfaces, etc. There are several folks over on the Grand Design forum towing the smallest Reflection fifth wheels with late model F150s with the Max Tow and Max Payload packages in addition to the EcoBoost engines. They make sure that the LOADED pin weight is under the scale-confirmed rear axle payload remaining after passengers, fuel and hitch are all accounted for. (Use 23% of the fifth wheel's GVWR off the sticker for an estimated loaded pin weight - FORGET curb weights!)These fifth wheels are under 30' and 10,000 lbs. loaded - NONE of them are pulling a 34' fifth wheel with a 1/2 ton truck. It's a recipe for trouble.

Rob

 

I think that rear axle will be so close if not over the rating that it would not last long.

 

(Capacity 1699LBS)


that is passengers and pin weight combined


so two of you, dog, supplies, that's only 1200 left


my pin weight was about 1900 for a 7500# 5th wheel.

 

Great advice above, nothing worse than being "under-trucked".....I formerly was too.

I highly reccomend a (f250 with camper package) or f350 diesel. Many will say get the F350 for the higher payload sticker and I don't disagree. SuperDuty's are designed for what you want it to do. The exhaust brake will be really nice to slow that thing in a mountain.

Best of luck!

 

NOTE: Ford's don't have an "exhaust brake". The turbo has variable vanes in it that close and cause deceleration.