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That still helps. With the 8020 stock there would be a lot of ability to alter the pivot point, so I really didn’t pay much attention to this aspect. Welding things gets no in-process adjustability
I really wanted to wait with the stand until I had the motor out and hanging. Maybe I really need to do that. From looking at pics it seems like the rear bolting locations are at the block centerline, so the typical tube or channel mounting just slightly forward will cause a heavier rear tail. Not that it would be excessive. Heads off of course alters everything. But with 8020 channels that’s an easy adjustment. The other thing that could be done is alter the pivot point at the stand flanges, to bring it exactly in line with the upper back engine mount bolt.
I think Joe’s statement is right, more time is spent on the stand then actual engine work.
Also I might as well say I think I’m going out of the box. The head gaskets are fine, factory installed and stock finishes. The problem is one lazy lifter, and the cam may be fine. So I thinking of going the way of asking a proctologist to remove your tonsils. Mount the engine on the stand, flip it, remove the covers, remove the bottom layers, remove the crank, remove the cam, pull the lifter(s) from the bottom. Evaluate the cam and go from there.
It’s just under 70k and I will never use tuning, although since I still have the ‘03 programming with pilot injection, it’s more aggressive then later programming. But pulling the heads and prepping the surfaces that don’t need shop work may be more problematic then leaving the heads (and bolts) as they are.
My stand "fine tuning" was done when the engine was out....only way because I had to customize the arms' length, although I predrilled the 1/2" plates welded to the arms which cut some time.
Why are you removing the crank....just curious?
At this point jack.....I'd almost say since it is out do the head gaskets.
I know it seems like a waste but it is out and it is SOOOOOOO much easier and stud it and be done.
Venturing out to the garage .... my wife just came home from her shop and said the garage is starting to look more like a metal shop rather then a woodworking shop. And again, she's right
I'll post up some of the measurements I have after drilling the plates to the brackets.
Three of the four locations line up in a rectangular pattern. The one mount has all four on a true rectangle.
For the horizontals, theres a few options.
I have plenty of 2.5" square stock in house, so that's where I was going. But if moved within the bolts horizontal it will be tight and at least a stud for the upper hole with a nut will be needed.
2" square would provide more room, I'll just have to acquire more then I have now.
Fitment on the flange of the axle would work like this. As you can see the 8020 aluminum profile with it's slots provides a lot of adjustablity. I drilled the flags for that.
And the horizontal could be side mounted to the flange's plate to bring the pivot centered.
A compound cut and weld can also be an answer.
Then 2.5" square would fit without issue, and could go a little higher then this.
Jack I was with you until pictures 10,11, and 12. . Don't explain. I'll just watch the build come together and the light will go off in my head and the oh, ok will come to me.
Instead of having the horizontal come out 90° to the block, it’s angled so the joining at the block plate is moved to the center of the plate for more bolt clearance. And you move the opposite flange more towards the rear of the block. It’s not laid to scale and the angle may not be 45°, but maybe 30° depending how far out from the engine block you want the flange.
This way the axle center is behind the rearset of block bolts, and more weight to the front.
Thanks Sean. I’ve dithered with this for so long I think they may be in earlier posts. . They place the pivot point within the bolting envelope, which again may be a little tail heavy. From the measurements I took on the screen it appeared they used 2” horizontals which would be absolutely fine deflection wise.
The other images I looked at that I don’t think were posted but show a 6.4 with the motor plate side were from Diesel Power magazine site. They show issue with the rear bolt location being at the center, between the middle cylinders.
In order to make sure the axles are aligned rather then trying to do a compound angle attachment at the motor plate and a 45° at the flange plate in a home shop environment it may be just better to offset at the flange plate as here.
We’ll have to see if the damn things fit. And that the motor doesn’t fall on my foot. That welder is 20 years old and I’ve probably laid 6 rods with it, including this burn. I weld once every ten years, whether I have to or not. And the thing is I kept it all in the fixture when welding, so half was vertical and the other 25% uphill. Haven’t done that in 40 years. Now that it’s painted and on the bench after tacking it I should have fully disassembled the pair and welded it up as all horizontal.
Root pass was 6011 DCEP and looked OK for an apprentice, then I added 7018 DCEP to cover the 90°s and just handled it poorly, dropped amps when I shouldn’t have and tried to do it in one pass. Rookie .......
. Don't explain. I'll just watch the build come together and the light will go off in my head and the oh, ok will come to me. 
. They place the pivot point within the bolting envelope, which again may be a little tail heavy. From the measurements I took on the screen it appeared they used 2” horizontals which would be absolutely fine deflection wise.
