rear driveline

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May 1, 2017 | 09:35 AM

Brian Biel

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From: Lost Springs, Wy

rear driveline

hello guys.
gonna remove the remove the rear driveline which has the short one then attached to the carrier bearing then the long rear drive shaft. last night i sprayed penetrating oil on all bolts. every bolt bolt looks rusted pretty bad. as i noted before this vehicle came from a state that used salt or other chemicals in the winter time on their hwys and underneath is rusted pretty bad. it's a 2002 F250 super duty V10 crew cab automatic transmission. I've chalked all my wheels and ready here shortly to start on the project. the bolts on the flange on the transmission i'm afraid of breaking off. sure not a lot of room in there with that cone shape design from flange to transmission and the bolts for carrier bearing really rusted.
you all have a good day https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/i...ies2/wink2.gif

May 1, 2017 | 04:32 PM

Brian Biel

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From: Lost Springs, Wy

help...lol what size are the 4 ujoint cap bolts at the very rear of the drive shaft. right there at the differential. the ones up front were 5/16 but this has a little bit of play so I tried metric same thing. and great design ford, can't use a socket, it's too thick so have to use box end wrench. using 16 pt. end wrench. try some heat to it as been soaked with penetrating oil for a couple days. these are the only ones left. I think I did find my problem, the carrier bearing has quite a bit of play but with that many miles need to replace ujoints and ones that you can grease.

May 2, 2017 | 09:31 AM

Brian Biel

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From: Lost Springs, Wy

hey guys, well got the drivelines and carrier bearing off without too much cussing lol. definitely need new u-joints. The ones at the rear differential, 2 of the caps wouldn't even turn. Got a small pipe wrench to get the caps off so I could see if the inside was completely dry or had some grease. to my surprise had had very little grease but it was like the caps were froze, very rigid. thought the carrier bearing be really toast but not bad but will replace anyway. now the driveline that has about a 6in. rubber boot with 3 metal straps around that, whats inside that? is there anything in there i need to replace. and the nut that I have to take off to remove the carrier bearing most likely is metric. both drivelines are really pitted from rusting, is it ok to lightly sand blast them an then paint hem. i know they're balanced so that's why I was asking.
have a good one

May 2, 2017 | 12:13 PM

Im50fast

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From: Central Florida

Probably should have posted this in the f250 forum. You'd get more feedback.

May 2, 2017 | 02:54 PM

Brian Biel

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From: Lost Springs, Wy

i don't know how to use the site or post is my problem. i know theres alot of information a person can get from people in here but people like me who don't know how to use a computer is lost. thanks though.

May 3, 2017 | 09:29 AM

Diamnd1

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From: TN

Inside that rubber boot is the slip yoke for the shafts to mate up. You should put some grease in there before putting it back together. There is a recommended grease that you can get from the Ford dealer or, as I use, high temp wheel bearing grease. That is the only grease that seems to last the longest. I will get the drive-line "thump" when accelerating from a stop when it needs to be re-greased. You may want to get another clamp to replace as they can get damaged and can be a big PITA to re-install.

I think you will be fine with sandblasting and painting a light coat. Just don't blowoff any weights.

May 3, 2017 | 01:43 PM

Brian Biel

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From: Lost Springs, Wy

oh ok. yeah those clamps are small and look like they have like a hook on one end to secure the clamp and easily be damaged to pry it off. hope a parts store would have them as our Ford dealership left our community last year. thank you for the advise. it looks like it has 1 weight. i take it the round looking piece of metal embedded in the driveshaft is the weight for it to be balanced correctly.
thanks