Not sure how to post directly to the Tech folder so all post this here & maby someone can link it to the tech folder.

Carrier Bearing Replacement!!
On a 2003 5.4/ Crew Cab, Long bed

Noticed some drive-line slop & noticed my bearing rubber insulator was rotted away pretty good.

Tools Needed,
12mm (4- drive-line axle bolts)
14mm (2 Carrier bearing bolts)
Shop press, or something equivalent off to remove bearing.
2 1/2 Pipe, with .125 sidewalls to hammer new bearing in.
Dead-blow hammer for hammering new bearing on
Blue lock tight.

Nice helpful to have! But could of been done without.
2 Jacks to hold drive-line up for removal & re-install
New hardware for carrier bearing install
Silicon spray for removing & installing new bearing
1-person to hold axle while hammering on new bearing.

The truck (Now minus running boards!! long wheel base + sharp turn + huge plow ice hardened bank + wife = no running boards.... also a mad wife.)


Tools


First I would start by soaking your carrier bearing bolts in some penetrating oil, seriously! Let that sit preferably for a couple hours or spray some on the day before.

Mine for literally seized & I don't know how I didn't bust a head off when it finally did give way.

(Refer to the picture for referance.)
FIRST MARK DRIVESHAFT!!! For installing back the same way, I used a paint pen.
Then place jacks under truck lifted against or close to drive-line.
Then remove the 2 CV-boot clamps.
Then remove carrier bearing bolts 2 14mm bolts, then the front 4 axle bolts 2 12mm bolts.
Carefully without it falling on you ease it down onto the jack stands.
The spindle should easily slide out.


Then remove the rubber around the bearing, I choose to simply cut mine off with a razor blade.


Next to remove the bearing I used a shop press as seen below. Some guys get away with using a simple 2 or 3 jaw bearing puller but my spindle was way to long for any puller I had.


This is the set-up I used to get under the bearing and pop it up & off.
2 steel channels, I believe they were 1/4 thick?
ALSO I prayed and soaked some silicone into the top of the bearing in an effort to help slid it off.
BE CAREFUL, mine took 2 tries, the first try the bottom the the bearing popped off, the second time the whole thing popped off.
When it did pop off it seemed to explode off!
May of been original bearing?? Truck has 175XXX on it now.


Next clean up the spindle, and spray some silicone around the base were the new bearing is going to go on. I used a piece of aluminum pipe, a block of wood & a dead blow with a friend holding the axle while I hammered the new bearing down. When you strike it try and strike it dead center downwards to help evenly press the bearing down. Mine went very comparatively easy going on.

I used 10" of pipe.


Reinstall!
Clean up any dirt on the spindle, and grease up the spindle part, also slide on the cv-boot down flush against the new bearing.


I choose to buy new bolt hardware for the carrier bearing because my threads were damaged from such a hard removal. Very cheap solid grade 8 hardware from homedepot. Here are the sizes and parts.


Hardware. (Zinc coated)


Axle install!
I was alone & used the jackstands for help installing. I sorta se-sawed it up the the stands.
First line up your axle marks to reinstall the same way then slide the spindle end in, my rear drive-line was supported by a jackstand, Then secure the carrier bearing loosely to hold it up. You'll tighten down after you secure the front 4 axle bolts.


Then with the axle supported by the carrier bearings NOT FULLY TIGHTENED YET! Remove the back jackstand so the drive-line can straighten out to install the front 4 bolts.


Once the 4 bolts are in the front, tighten those down and find where the carrier bearing wants to naturally rest on the mount then secure the carrier bearing bolts down. Mine were changed to beefy 19mm heads. I removed each side, added lock tight and tightened down.

Double check everything!Then test drive!

Wrote this pretty fast all correct anything I forgot later.

 

Nice! Good write up! Thanks!

 

I am nitpicking here but its not a nissan hardbody! Lol. Crew cab!

 

True, haha changing now.

 

Just an FYI the splines on the yoke will only let the driveshaft go together one way no reason worry about putting it back together different and it being out of balence or something.

 

I will add one comment. It looks like your new hardware is metric grade 8.8. That is actually equivalent to a grade 5 standard bolt. In metric, you would need a grade 10.9 to be equivalent in strength to a grade 8. Helpful chart:




Very nice work! I will add this to my collection for when it is time to change it on my truck. I have a new bearing on the shelf, I just haven't needed it yet