Another question. I currently have the Ported Housing (no fitment issues). Should I keep that and get the 11 blade single plane wheel OR go back to the stock housing and get a 4/4 wheel?

Thoughts?

 

Talk to Clay if using his wheel. But I would keep the ported housing if you already have it.

 

Final update to this thread (build thread coming). Seeing I only have 100K on the stock injectors, I couldn't justify spending the money on bigger sticks and a turbo to support them. Also seeing that I already had a ported housing from when I bought the truck, I decided the 11 blade single plane wheel was the right course of action.

However, to add to the fun, I was able to score a like new TM73 wastegate. While I was working out that deal, the seller offered up his like new non EBPV pedestal AND 1.0 housing for a killer deal (thanks The Brad). I appreciate the great deals and willingness to help a fellow member on here. A true brotherhood if you ask me.

I have coined this an 'old school' build by today's standards but the way the numbers play out, I will be into this for less then $350 (this excludes the high flow outlet, TM73 and non EBPV pedestal all of which would or will move over to a 38r variant).

Summary: 11 Blade Single Plane billet wheel (RR), Ported Housing, 360 bearing, 1.0 housing and high flow outlet.

Let the fun begin

 

Sounds like you have a solid plan of action. You will have to let us know how it turns out.

Remember, we like pictures!

 

I think now would be a good time to ask about the benefits of cross drilling the divider on the exh housing to equalize drive pressure. Has anyone here done this? I haven't found much info on it, but it makes sense.

 

This is the only post I could find on the subject: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13499443

 

30 PSI? I don't like the strain that bushing is enduring. As long as roller bearings are part of the plan, that's all I have for input.

 

I don't think any one said the turbo was going run all day at 30 PSI. I simply said I can hit 30 PSI. The TM will limit boost and the 1.0 will reduce EBP both of which will make for a happy turbo.

 

My guess is that you're going to like the setup.

I recall a bit about drilling the divider....on another site....PS Army I think.

 

Please post a link here to your build thread so we can follow your progress

 

The 'strain' is only detrimental if the delta between EBP and boost is high. Even then, this does not produce a rapid failure.

Ive seen stock turbos beaten with 35psi for 100k miles. There will be play in the shaft prior to catastrophic failure and you can rebuild for <$100 and sell it when you upgrade...

Putting $$$ in s stock turbo (beyond rebuild) is like putting lipstick on a pig. Especially now that KC Turbos has drop-in alternatives. I don't even recommend upgrading compressor wheel anymore (it's generally not an improvement with stock injectors and it's not enough of an improvement by itself with bigger injectors).

The wastegate is simply not required with stock injectors. You cannot hurt the turbo with 'too much boost' (with stock sticks).

I'll be testing a KC369 next week (replacing a T4 set-up). With this turbo and the KC366 and KC363 as options, there is literally no need to 'waste' money on a stock charger. I ditched my 38R years ago. The thought of a $1500 'disposable' turbo just pissed me off and after Barney and others started blowing theirs up with <100k miles - I went to a T4/S366 on my truck (with 160/0's AC codes)

Rich, the KC turbos use a rebuildable dual ball bearing center section.

 

Jason Im talking with KC about the 63 now. Will know more this week

 

 

we shall see!

 

If the KC63 performs close to the BW SXE turbos, it'll be a game changer for those with stock to 160/30 injectors. I no longer have any need for my dual pyros while towing.