Hey all, I'm reaching out to the wonderful community here to help my with any ideas or suggestions. I was a member some time ago and you guys helped out a TON. I want to thank everyone in advance for the help

To the fun stuff..

Background: 2004 F250 6.0 168k No chip/Mods/

Does have Viper Remote Start

Just purchased my beautiful truck about 3 months ago. Ran Fine no issues ever. Then it started. I would be at a Red Light and go to take off and nothing. Truck moves at an idle and is idling even though the pedal is to the floor. Lift the pedal up and try again and it works. This happened once a week.. then maybe 2 or more as time went on. Lift the pedal and try it again and it may take 3 or 4 attempts but it will eventually catch and go. I had this pinpointed to the Pedal assembly. The cheapest i found was $600 and some change so I figured it could wait. Its the adjustable style.

Took it on a long trip and noticed the fuel gauge was stuck on half way for about 200 miles. Cycled the truck at rest area and needle jumps down to 1/8 of a tank. Ruled this to be the float sending unit.


Two days ago i hop in my truck and get running around 80 or so and it cuts out on me. 3-5 Seconds at WOT. I bring it back down to 75 and it acted ok. Throughout the day it felt sluggish... Could be me but it felt as if it had no pep. Headed home and it died on me leaving me roadside. It acted as if it ran out of fuel. Well with the knowledge of the fuel gauge acting wierd i figured it did. After 2 trips and 10 gallons of diesel it wouldnt start. Looked online and some show having to purge the air/ other say just KEKO for 15 to 20 times and it should work. Never started and eventually pulled it home. Took the fuel filter out and bowl is full. Dropped the lower filter and it had fuel as well.Replaced Filters. With Key on fuel is getting to the small under hood filter. No air bubbles.

It cranked on it today and it acts like it wants to start but is fuel starved. I cranked on it 3 times in a row and then turn the key to try again and nothing. No Starter Click... Nothing. Batteries at 12.7 each . Odometer reads 8888888. Took the key out and tried it cranks just fine but never fires.

I'm not sure where to start. I have a pretty good code reader but as usually wont show anything i want to see.. AKA ficm....ipr...icp..

I dont even know where to start... i get under the hood and get depressed... lol.. Fist thing i was going to do is test the FICM with a good ole multimeter and being careful not to short it out.

Then fuel pressure next I guess but not sure how to do this... "on a budget" ...

Any help is appreciated guys.. Sorry for writing a Novel i just wanted to give everything I knew up front. I bought it from a car lot which said an old man had it and took really good care of it... could be true... could be a pitch..

 

First, make absolutely sure you have good batteries.

Charge them and then individually load test them. Inspect the cables, connections and grounds.

 

I just added that i did test the batteries when i bought the truck at the parts house. Today they had 12.7 volts while cranking. I'll take em in tomorrow and see if they can load test them again.

 

Verify cam/crank sync and FICM sync when cranking.

Intermittent cranking (cranking and then not cranking) sounds like an electrical connection issue.

 

My scan tool will not show Ficm voltage or Sync.. Im trying to find the cheapest option to get this done. I have a few hundred into the scan tool i have now. It's basically a fancy code reader... which is useless to me right now. Why isnt there some software i can load to a laptop and use a obd to usb or something along those line.. that will give me everything?

It was wierd... the no crank happened twice.. one time it tool me taking the key out and trying again. The First time i did it and held it and a a couple seconds later it cranked. Cranks strong..

Wire Loom or ignition switch i assume..

I did tug and pull on the looms under hood and its still the same thing.

 

Maybe instead of throwing $$ at parts i should first invest in some sort of reader that will give me access to everything and freeze frames?

 

Otherwise i feel like I may as well work on this thing blindfolded..lol

Update: I cant afford $2500 scan tool..

 

Checking connections is free. Check the starter connections and the fan clutch wires also.

When the no start happens, try starting with ICP, EBP, EOT, ECT, and EOP all unplugged.

You can get what you need (scan tool) w/ an ELM adapter and a phone app (Torque, Forscan, DashBoss)

 

I'm actually off tomorrow and will check alll the connections and take the batteries into town. That will eliminate that. I got off at 7 today and had 30 min to mess with it and sure didnt feel like it after a long work day.

 

Keep us informed. Thanks for the good communication!

 

Thank you for the help. I'm trying my best to let you know everything I know. Will keep updated.

 

Oh, and the AutoEnginuity (computer based) is a very nice scan tool.

 

Thank you sir. I will google them

 

Will an ELM adapter with one of the apps show ficm voltage? Are there certain ones that show more than others or is it the app that has the info. I just want to be able to see as much data possible. If im going to buy one i want a good one with out spending an arm and a leg.

 

I use the Torque app. It shows the FICM voltages, sync, etc.

I have the BAFX Elm 327 adapter