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Pipe and DP are 1/2 Square drive. seals on both ends look fine. It was not leaking in that area during the air test.
Nipple Cups are not sloppy loose , but they do move. I hear this is normal.
The OEM standpipes and dummy plugs are 12mm hex to remove and re-install. Not sure what brand would have the 1/2 square drive. I would change them out.
Not sure if you have seen the coffee table books or not, so I thought I would give you a link to the "04 updates" version.
The OEM standpipes and dummy plugs are 12mm hex to remove and re-install. Not sure what brand would have the 1/2 square drive. I would change them out.
Not sure if you have seen the coffee table books or not, so I thought I would give you a link to the "04 updates" version.
From my understanding the 04' had the 1/2" square drive dummy plugs from the factory that rarely fail, it was the 05' and up came with the 10MM and the updated ones are 12MM.
I don't have anything useful to add, other than the fact that if you happen to have a late '04/early '05 engine that uses the 1/2" square drive dummy plug and standpipe, they too can be replaced with the updated ones with the white Teflon seals using the 12mm hex.
A LONG LONG day it was. I try to net get in a hurry when doing this stuff as I tend to get pissed and throw stuff... Which means other stuff breaks. Nothing broke... Well because i was mad..
It was a good day..
Turbo came off no problems. Got all but the last three bolts out on the HPOP which from what a read and watched " Diesel Tech Ron" RIP... those 3 stay in for removal. Well.. The front 2 loosened up nicely... The back one... Impossible.. For me anyways. Extended wrench, Gear Wrench, nothing..
So intake time.. That is a PITA... It wouldnt be bad if i could lay on a mattress up there, instead of every little tool and sharp object giving me a C Section.
Hpop cover off.. had white/gey silicone on the rear so i though someone has maybe been in it but I'm thinking maybe this came from ford like this. EVERY... I MEAN every bolt was there... Not even the 2 PITA rear HPOP cover bolts holding the shield were missing... If i had not seen the silicone... Id say it had not been touched.
With the cover off its really hard to air test. I found a rubber tip spray nozzle to inject from the top of the pump and i didnt hear a thing. This thing... one minute it leaks.. the next its air tight.. lol.. I feel like im replacing a good pump... After fooling with that i pulled the pump and checked the o-rings.. they look fine.
NOW... ONLY A FOOL WOULD NOT REPLACE THE PUMP... Ive already told myself im only taking that HPOP cover off once..
I'm looking at pumps. I would love a nice High Output pump BUT... Chase Bank says otherwise.. I'm seeing around 500 bucks for Pumps.
The tube coming off the pump. After i unbolted it if just kinda flops over out of the way. Should this have any slop in it? It is serviceable or do i have to get a new tube.
Any ideas on why the air test leaked passed the second time. I think i just wasnt able to muster up the strength to hold it for a solid 2-3 minutes...
If any on has any comments, suggestions, thoughts, or wants to start a "Gp Fund Me" 6.0 Hpop Edition..
The OEM standpipes and dummy plugs are 12mm hex to remove and re-install. Not sure what brand would have the 1/2 square drive. I would change them out.
Not sure if you have seen the coffee table books or not, so I thought I would give you a link to the "04 updates" version.
Is there supposed to be an o-ring where the job tube coming off the pump snaps into the branch tunes ? I popped mine off and there doesn't appear to be one.
Never mind. It's actually built into the body of the tube instead of down at the bottom where I was looking. Looks good. O ring with a plastic ring backing it up
A HUGE THANK YOU TO ALL THAT HELPED AND THIS COMMUNITY
Truck is running like a dream
It turned out to be a weak HPOP. New one fixed her right up.
New Hpop, New coolant "Y" hose, New Radiator ( dont even ask..lol) , EGR Delete, New IPR, New Coolant Pigtail , New Injector,New Marmon Clamp for Turbo. Old ICP... <<<--- THis was horrible.. Few turned wrenches, bloody knuckles, and turbo off and on a few times and she is back like new.
It took me about a week and a half working on it almost everyday.10-5. Mind you the first few days waiting on the ELM and diagnosing with the torque app.
A lot of the time i was sitting around cleaning parts with brake cleaner waiting on UPS/Fed Ex for parts or online searching for parts or calling the Ford Dealer.
I took my time on purpose. I didn't want snapped bolts, things missing, falling in the dirt. I put each components bolts/nuts in labeled baggies and tried to stay organized. Going back i took my time and looked up torque specs for everything. This was my first time in that deep and wanted to take my time.
2 Hiccups. My New IPR. I installed while the truck was non running before i tore into it. When i went to take it off for Hpop cover removal it unthreaded from the body of the sensor Leaving the bottom half in the cover with about 1/2" of threads sticking out. Thinking all was well i just threaded it back on there. Put it all together and it leaked like a siv. Pulled turbo and had to jamb nut it while on the HPOP cover... This was a chore.. Returned and installed new, Fixed.
ICP- Stay away from cheap Amazon/Ebay ones for $30. I scratched my head literally for about 5 hours before I though to myself " what else did i touch" and unplugged the ICP only to hear it idles up and click and clank again
Before i swear it had ZERO boost and sounded like a new 4 cylinder gasser, I new it wasnt right. Not sure how it slipped but Torque was reading .4v with 110psi or so on Hpop. Cleaned my old one up after finding it wedged down by the shock( surprised it stayed after road test) put it in reading .2 and working beautifully. Glad I found it, $160 and some change for that gem.
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
