Rumble Noise
#1
04-25-2017, 09:07 PM
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Lost Springs, Wy
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Rumble Noise
Hello,
Been wondering if anyone else has experienced like a rumble type noise, like if you drive over those highway rumble things on the edge of the road. It happens at low speeds like 30 mph or lower and more prominent when you come to a stop. It came on all of a sudden . Replaced new tie rods, dampener and stabilizer bar links and still have it. Tires wear great and thought the hub's were still turned in as it sounded the front differential drive line was going around. This is on a 2002 F250 crew cab. The complete tie rod kit that connects to the the pitman arm isn't cheap, it did need replaced as there was a lot of play in it but danm, when on a set income and it still have same problem , very upsetting. On social security disability and I told them that I can't keep spending money on parts that they told me were bad and it didn't work. Any one with same problem be greatly appreciated. Everything is tight on the wheel according to the tire shop , it takes me a while to get underneath and I can't find anything .
Thank you
Brian
Been wondering if anyone else has experienced like a rumble type noise, like if you drive over those highway rumble things on the edge of the road. It happens at low speeds like 30 mph or lower and more prominent when you come to a stop. It came on all of a sudden . Replaced new tie rods, dampener and stabilizer bar links and still have it. Tires wear great and thought the hub's were still turned in as it sounded the front differential drive line was going around. This is on a 2002 F250 crew cab. The complete tie rod kit that connects to the the pitman arm isn't cheap, it did need replaced as there was a lot of play in it but danm, when on a set income and it still have same problem , very upsetting. On social security disability and I told them that I can't keep spending money on parts that they told me were bad and it didn't work. Any one with same problem be greatly appreciated. Everything is tight on the wheel according to the tire shop , it takes me a while to get underneath and I can't find anything .
Thank you
Brian
#3
04-26-2017, 09:04 AM
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Lost Springs, Wy
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good morning,
transmission is good. i been thinking about the front brake or rotor. i know a warped rotor can cause issues but i'm not up to that kind of stuff. i've had both front wheels off and seems the driver side is harder to turn. i had the manual hubs repacked, should say they repacked and new seals inner and outer seals put in but after about 8 months i was underneath greasing all the zerks and noticed this ring hanging off both inner wheel assemblies, turns out those are the dust seals they put in and of course their warranty is only 30 days. after what i had to pay to have that done i was a bit ticked off and told them about their work and spread the word around town about their crappy work and won't back their work either. thanks
brian
transmission is good. i been thinking about the front brake or rotor. i know a warped rotor can cause issues but i'm not up to that kind of stuff. i've had both front wheels off and seems the driver side is harder to turn. i had the manual hubs repacked, should say they repacked and new seals inner and outer seals put in but after about 8 months i was underneath greasing all the zerks and noticed this ring hanging off both inner wheel assemblies, turns out those are the dust seals they put in and of course their warranty is only 30 days. after what i had to pay to have that done i was a bit ticked off and told them about their work and spread the word around town about their crappy work and won't back their work either. thanks
brian
#4
04-26-2017, 09:21 AM
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#5
04-27-2017, 10:58 AM
Join Date: Apr 2017
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hello, my truck is a 2002 F250 Super Duty Lariat, V10, Crew Cab, Automatic transmission, manual hubs. Last summer had taken it to a mechanic shop to have them repack the front wheel bearings. They said they repacked them and put in new inner and outer dust shields. I had crawled underneath to grease zirks and found this ring hanging from one of wheels. Called them and they said it was a dust shield must have came out and of course their warranty work is only 30 days. I snipped it off. a few months later the other side came off. I'm wondering if dust/dirt got into the bearings that I had them work on. It's weird the rumbling noise came on suddenly. Like going over those rumble things on the edge of the road. only at low speeds like 30 mph or coming to a stop. Was wondering if the carrier bearing at center rear drive shaft. When I go down the highway I thought I left my hubs in as you can hear a more whining noise I guess to best describe it. if you speed up and then slow down you can hear like if the differential is locked in but I checked that and the hubs aren't locked in and the front differential driveshaft doesn't rotate when hubs are not locked out. So I'm wondering if it could be the carrier bearing.
Thank you
Brian
Thank you
Brian
#6
04-27-2017, 01:50 PM
Posting Guru
Miles on this rig?
I'd be wary of a mechanic that said he'd repack your front wheel bearings unless it was a 2 wheel drive. Only one "dust shield" per side, not 2. The shields are a known problem until 2011 or so when Ford updated the design. The new design will fit the older trucks. Don't worry about it unless you frequently go mudding. Just replace them with the updated design the next time you pull the axles. There is an actual axle oil seal down inside the axle tube by the carrier on both sides to keep the oil in and dirt out. The "dust" seal just prevents large items and mud from getting in between the tube and rotating axle.
Here is a logical troubleshooting approach. The hubs, carrier bearing, and rear driveshaft can be easily removed to inspect and articulate the U-joints to feel for a bad joint or carrier.
If you don't find it then I'd say the front wheel hubs are growing and need to be replaced.
Find a good mechanic and take him for a ride.
I'd be wary of a mechanic that said he'd repack your front wheel bearings unless it was a 2 wheel drive. Only one "dust shield" per side, not 2. The shields are a known problem until 2011 or so when Ford updated the design. The new design will fit the older trucks. Don't worry about it unless you frequently go mudding. Just replace them with the updated design the next time you pull the axles. There is an actual axle oil seal down inside the axle tube by the carrier on both sides to keep the oil in and dirt out. The "dust" seal just prevents large items and mud from getting in between the tube and rotating axle.
Here is a logical troubleshooting approach. The hubs, carrier bearing, and rear driveshaft can be easily removed to inspect and articulate the U-joints to feel for a bad joint or carrier.
If you don't find it then I'd say the front wheel hubs are growing and need to be replaced.
Find a good mechanic and take him for a ride.
#7
04-27-2017, 06:00 PM
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It's a 4 wheel drive with 143,000miles. The passenger inner dust shield came off 1st then a few months later the driver side came off. It pissed me off for the amount I paid to have them work on them . It's a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Do the wheel bearings come sealed or do you repack them. I remember as a kid we would repack them . Now on the carrier bearing should I remove the rear drive shaft and see if it turns ?
Thank you
Brian
Thank you
Brian
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#8
04-28-2017, 08:08 AM
Posting Guru
That's why they redesigned it. They were installed incorrectly or they installed the earlier design. So were clear, the dust seal(not shield) is the black rubber seal that fits into the end of the housing tube by the front U-joints. The dust/stone shield protects the rear of the brake rotor.
The front hub bearings are a sealed unit, not serviceable. At 143K you're due. I recommend doing both sides. Inspect the front outer shaft(s) U-joints and ball joints while its apart. I'd just put new spicer U-joints in while its apart, cheap insurance. You will be doing it in another 20-40K miles anyway. Now is the time to do all of this when its apart. It will actually save $ because you won't have to go back into it 10K miles from now and have it taken apart again for one of the above-mentioned parts.
Do yourself a favor and put the Ford Motorcraft hubs in or a USA made hub. Same for the rest of the parts. The chineasium junk you will find everywhere is tempting at 1/2 the price, but it's half the quality or less and won't last 2 years before your in making the same repairs...so your not saving a dime actually it's more expensive using the junk because you have to do it again in short order. Always ask country of origin when buying anything, not just car parts.
As far as the carrier bearing and any u-joint you need to remove the shafts and articulate them to feel for bind and spin the carrier to feel for roughness. Both can look ok yet be shot. I'd remove both rear shafts with the carrier. Find a Fleet Pride or other driveshaft shop in your area and have them inspect it. Again your at that mileage point where I'd just install new U-joints and carrier. They will spin balance it for you as well.
The front hub bearings are a sealed unit, not serviceable. At 143K you're due. I recommend doing both sides. Inspect the front outer shaft(s) U-joints and ball joints while its apart. I'd just put new spicer U-joints in while its apart, cheap insurance. You will be doing it in another 20-40K miles anyway. Now is the time to do all of this when its apart. It will actually save $ because you won't have to go back into it 10K miles from now and have it taken apart again for one of the above-mentioned parts.
Do yourself a favor and put the Ford Motorcraft hubs in or a USA made hub. Same for the rest of the parts. The chineasium junk you will find everywhere is tempting at 1/2 the price, but it's half the quality or less and won't last 2 years before your in making the same repairs...so your not saving a dime actually it's more expensive using the junk because you have to do it again in short order. Always ask country of origin when buying anything, not just car parts.
As far as the carrier bearing and any u-joint you need to remove the shafts and articulate them to feel for bind and spin the carrier to feel for roughness. Both can look ok yet be shot. I'd remove both rear shafts with the carrier. Find a Fleet Pride or other driveshaft shop in your area and have them inspect it. Again your at that mileage point where I'd just install new U-joints and carrier. They will spin balance it for you as well.
#9
04-29-2017, 12:09 PM
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Lost Springs, Wy
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That's why they redesigned it. They were installed incorrectly or they installed the earlier design. So were clear, the dust seal(not shield) is the black rubber seal that fits into the end of the housing tube by the front U-joints. The dust/stone shield protects the rear of the brake rotor.
The front hub bearings are a sealed unit, not serviceable. At 143K you're due. I recommend doing both sides. Inspect the front outer shaft(s) U-joints and ball joints while its apart. I'd just put new spicer U-joints in while its apart, cheap insurance. You will be doing it in another 20-40K miles anyway. Now is the time to do all of this when its apart. It will actually save $ because you won't have to go back into it 10K miles from now and have it taken apart again for one of the above-mentioned parts.
Do yourself a favor and put the Ford Motorcraft hubs in or a USA made hub. Same for the rest of the parts. The chineasium junk you will find everywhere is tempting at 1/2 the price, but it's half the quality or less and won't last 2 years before your in making the same repairs...so your not saving a dime actually it's more expensive using the junk because you have to do it again in short order. Always ask country of origin when buying anything, not just car parts.
As far as the carrier bearing and any u-joint you need to remove the shafts and articulate them to feel for bind and spin the carrier to feel for roughness. Both can look ok yet be shot. I'd remove both rear shafts with the carrier. Find a Fleet Pride or other driveshaft shop in your area and have them inspect it. Again your at that mileage point where I'd just install new U-joints and carrier. They will spin balance it for you as well.
The front hub bearings are a sealed unit, not serviceable. At 143K you're due. I recommend doing both sides. Inspect the front outer shaft(s) U-joints and ball joints while its apart. I'd just put new spicer U-joints in while its apart, cheap insurance. You will be doing it in another 20-40K miles anyway. Now is the time to do all of this when its apart. It will actually save $ because you won't have to go back into it 10K miles from now and have it taken apart again for one of the above-mentioned parts.
Do yourself a favor and put the Ford Motorcraft hubs in or a USA made hub. Same for the rest of the parts. The chineasium junk you will find everywhere is tempting at 1/2 the price, but it's half the quality or less and won't last 2 years before your in making the same repairs...so your not saving a dime actually it's more expensive using the junk because you have to do it again in short order. Always ask country of origin when buying anything, not just car parts.
As far as the carrier bearing and any u-joint you need to remove the shafts and articulate them to feel for bind and spin the carrier to feel for roughness. Both can look ok yet be shot. I'd remove both rear shafts with the carrier. Find a Fleet Pride or other driveshaft shop in your area and have them inspect it. Again your at that mileage point where I'd just install new U-joints and carrier. They will spin balance it for you as well.
thank you
#10
04-30-2017, 01:09 PM
Posting Guru
Hello. Thank you for the advice. Welcome.
The driveshaft and carrier bearing was next on my list. It has a short drive shaft then carrier bearing then the longer drive shaft...thus the need for a carrier. Shorter trucks have one shaft no carrier. Grease the slip joint splines with the Ford Teflon grease while you have the shaft out. Search here we have explained this procedure several times as well as offer the ford part number for the grease. Dont use regular grease.
When I push around on them there's no sloppy play in them but will see when I take them off... Ya they can appear tight until you remove the shaft and actually articulate the joints. You will feel either the bind or the slop. if they are bad.
Done research and the vehicle came from Michigan and in the winter time they use some chemical on their highways to clear the roads but it sure rusted the heck out of that truck underneath...I recommend that everyone undercoats and rust proofs these trucks. But dont use the vendor that applies the black tar like substance to the chassis. Krown or Corrosion Free procedures are the best. Might be too late for your truck. Worth investigating.
The driveshaft is pitted bad. Would it be ok to sand blast the driveshaft then paint it?....no.... Sand blasting could warp the metal. If you did that, then painted it , it will likely throw off the balance. If its real bad have another one made and then prime n paint. Or look for one in a bone yard thats in better shape.
Also earlier where I had the front wheels inspected and they installed new u-joints, dont they make them where they have grease zirks... Look, they should be there. With the hubs unlocked you can simply spin the shaft by hand. I grease mine at least 3-4x per year. I also recommend locking in the hubs for a day or two during the warm season. You have to keep things freed up by using 4WD about once a month on dirt or grass.
The driveshaft and carrier bearing was next on my list. It has a short drive shaft then carrier bearing then the longer drive shaft...thus the need for a carrier. Shorter trucks have one shaft no carrier. Grease the slip joint splines with the Ford Teflon grease while you have the shaft out. Search here we have explained this procedure several times as well as offer the ford part number for the grease. Dont use regular grease.
When I push around on them there's no sloppy play in them but will see when I take them off... Ya they can appear tight until you remove the shaft and actually articulate the joints. You will feel either the bind or the slop. if they are bad.
Done research and the vehicle came from Michigan and in the winter time they use some chemical on their highways to clear the roads but it sure rusted the heck out of that truck underneath...I recommend that everyone undercoats and rust proofs these trucks. But dont use the vendor that applies the black tar like substance to the chassis. Krown or Corrosion Free procedures are the best. Might be too late for your truck. Worth investigating.
The driveshaft is pitted bad. Would it be ok to sand blast the driveshaft then paint it?....no.... Sand blasting could warp the metal. If you did that, then painted it , it will likely throw off the balance. If its real bad have another one made and then prime n paint. Or look for one in a bone yard thats in better shape.
Also earlier where I had the front wheels inspected and they installed new u-joints, dont they make them where they have grease zirks... Look, they should be there. With the hubs unlocked you can simply spin the shaft by hand. I grease mine at least 3-4x per year. I also recommend locking in the hubs for a day or two during the warm season. You have to keep things freed up by using 4WD about once a month on dirt or grass.
Which Rust Proofing Service Is Best?
https://www.krown.com/
#12
09-17-2017, 06:24 PM
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