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Gonna Drill out the rivets and use Grade8 Stove bolts, But If you look and the rest of your box brace for the P.S. box it is in fact welded.
I may run a stripe of "mud rod" where you can see the most movement, this way it's a visual for years to come, Weld crack = moving again.
Well I think the proper spot is almost a moot point, Since the one of the two mating holes must be egg shaped. Turning the wheel to the right or left the cross member moves, putting the wheel straight it seems to return to the same position. I'll bolt it down there.
(unless there are objections) We're talking 3/16" movement in frame rail width, could this make catastrophic alignment issues?
Someone could measure the left lower frame channel, to lower right frame channel on their nice, clean power coated-no engine installed rolling chassis, couldn't they?
There's no difference between a 2wd and a 4wd chassis. So, unless the cracking is related to extra forces on the steering due to power applied to the front wheels, a 2wd truck is as prone to cracking as a 4wd truck.
Except that a lot of guys with 4wd like to install big tires, and those big tires require more force to turn - so I expect more frame flexing issues are seen by the 4x4s.
True, but Dad's frame was cracked and it hasn't had anything larger than stock tires all its life. In fact, it hasn't ever been off paved roads, and the only use of 4wd has been in the snow.
Mine had most of its life plowing snow in Bangor Maine, and guess what, no cracks, but the crossmember rivets are lose and shifting around.
Gary, right now there is no reference pont to measure cause the motor and box are in the way, I'll pull the box again and see if there is reference.....
See below the "shifting"
Ron - If you can get to it why not align the holes as best you can and then drill them out for the next larger bolt? You may have to have the front wheels in the air to be able to move the frame, or turn the steering wheel while the wheels are on the ground, but you should be able to get it aligned pretty closely. Than drill the holes out and slip bolts and washers in there. Oversized Grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts tightened to specs should give you the clamping force needed to hold it.
Good advice here's the game plan, drill out the 2 flat-head rivets and then cut off the loose Huck bolt, replace with grade 8 Stove bolts, then weld in three 1/2" beads on the top surface from the box plate to cross member.
Before installing new bolts, make a brace from box plate to cross member, then fasten the bolts.
Sounds like a plan, assuming that the welding is after the bolts are tightened. But, I'm not sure I'd go with 1/2" beads initially. Instead I think I'd tack it in three places and then come back to add to each tack weld as the metal cools to keep the heat to a minimum.
here's the game plan, drill out the 2 flat-head rivets and then cut off the loose Huck bolt, replace with grade 8 Stove bolts, then weld in three 1/2" beads on the top surface from the box plate to cross member.