Installing Red Head steering box....
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Connecticut
Installing Red Head steering box....
Pre paring for the worst, hoping for the best, Since OO-BGUB is a running truck, Swapping the box will be done in "tight quarters" Now if (most likely) it has the frame stress crack behind the box, I'm thinking , "will I have to remove the Front Bumper, Grille, Core support, Radiator, left inner and outer fender for work space?"
Hmmmmm..........
Hmmmmm..........
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Orlando area
Take some photos and make us a "guide". Hopefully it will be non eventful.
From Gary's Garagemahl website, this photo shows the steering box mounting area on the frame. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/frame1.html
I didn't recall that the frame was double wall in that area - but now that I look at the photo, it looks like if there was to be a crack it would be difficult to get at (to weld).
From Gary's Garagemahl website, this photo shows the steering box mounting area on the frame. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/frame1.html
I didn't recall that the frame was double wall in that area - but now that I look at the photo, it looks like if there was to be a crack it would be difficult to get at (to weld).
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Orlando area
Maybe a little flex is to be excepted when the bumper is off. I never checked mine before.
The bumper would certainly add reinforcement/stability to the frame horns (like a cross member) when firmly bolted in place.
The bumper would certainly add reinforcement/stability to the frame horns (like a cross member) when firmly bolted in place.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Connecticut
Well that sucks...... Removed the old box, cleaned up the area (even Gary's infamous Huck bolt) and I can't see any cracking, But it does look like the box mounting plate is "shifting around" on the motor cross member.
Well I guess all the slop in in the box..
Well I guess all the slop in in the box..
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Here is the complete Ford TSB on this frame rivet problem.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/970310.pdf
That might be a good addition to your frame page Gary.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/970310.pdf
That might be a good addition to your frame page Gary.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Here is the complete Ford TSB on this frame rivet problem.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/970310.pdf
That might be a good addition to your frame page Gary.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/970310.pdf
That might be a good addition to your frame page Gary.
On the picture above of Dad's frame I'd already fixed the crack and welded in a piece of angle to give extra support. But you can see all of that here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14225305
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Logistics Pro
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From: Connecticut
Since no cracks were found,Wondering if I should:
* Install ne box and go for it...
* weld in bracing because its open now......
* Install ne box and go for it...
* weld in bracing because its open now......
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FTE Legend
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From: Northeast, OK
Unless you have everything out/off, welding a brace in may not be easy. But if you can get to it the peace of mind might be worth it. As I hopefully explained in the other thread, the place it will crack is at the very edge of the box.
FTE Legend
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From: Northeast, OK
That's where Dad's frame cracked, but it could be any of the holes for the steering box. It was a really poor design with a very hard edge on something that doesn't flex, like a cast iron box, near a hole. So, I'm going to put a plate the same thickness as the angle to spread the load above the angle. And I'll bevel the edges so they don't create a hard spot.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Connecticut
It looks like I have a ware mark between the engine cross member and the frame, there's a "flat spot" about 3/16" where it looks like the cross member is wiggling R-to-L.
but the rivets show no sign of being loose....
but the rivets show no sign of being loose....
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Logistics Pro
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From: Connecticut
Everything is tight, rivets show no movement, revieled no crack.so I took a come-a-long to test.
I hooked it from one horn to another, and tightened, there was no movement at the box, but the bumper end deflected.
Determined the box area is tight, and put it in.
Red Head directions say to "fill the pump, with engine off and front wheels up, turn wheel R-to-L 15 to 20 times, re fill and let sit 2 hrs, overnight is better" that where I am, letting is sit overnight........
I hooked it from one horn to another, and tightened, there was no movement at the box, but the bumper end deflected.
Determined the box area is tight, and put it in.
Red Head directions say to "fill the pump, with engine off and front wheels up, turn wheel R-to-L 15 to 20 times, re fill and let sit 2 hrs, overnight is better" that where I am, letting is sit overnight........