Buggered up steering box mount
#1
Buggered up steering box mount
long story short, the PO mounted a Power steering box form something else and in the process removed any way to know the original location of the stock box. So there is, what looks like, a mounting area on the passenger side of the frame, did they do this just to be symmetrical ? and after i repair the frame how can i re-cut the original holes to mount a toyota box?
#2
I think the matching holes on the passenger side frame rail are there so Ford did not have to use special frames for the RHD export models. They are in the same location (distance wise) so you can use them to measure where the steering box needs to be.
After you repair the frame, make a template from the right side frame rail. I would have a buddy with plasma do the cutting just to save time with cleanup of the holes.
After you repair the frame, make a template from the right side frame rail. I would have a buddy with plasma do the cutting just to save time with cleanup of the holes.
#6
It takes 4 holes, one larger one to pass the pitman shaft and 3 (3/8" IIRC) bolt holes. If you have the conversion mount for the Toy box you can easily make a pattern to redrill the holes. The shaft hole in the frame should be plumb above the drag link end with the drag link horizontal and the wheels pointed straight ahead. I don't know about the other mounts, but the heavy "V" mount that Mid Fifty sells sits with the small flat at the point of the V on the lower frame flange.
I'd cut the shaft hole with a hole saw (up to 1/2" oversize is OK, the stock hole needs to be enlarged for the Toy box anyhow) to make a clean job out of it, then put the mount with the box attached (don't forget to cut the 1/8" off the box under the shaft so the box and mount sits solid against the frame) in place and locate and then drill the three bolt holes. A set of transfer center punches makes it easy to locate the exact position of the drill holes and should be in everyone's tool box: Transfer Punch Set - 28 Piece , otherwise trace the mount on light card stock (a file folder or poster board works well) and cut it out. To find and punch out the 3 bolt holes in the pattern, tape or hold the pattern on the mount, then lightly tap on top the holes with the ball end of a small ball peen hammer until the holes cut thru, a perfect pattern! A PO had buggered up the mount holes in my frame, so I bolted the mount in place with thick grade 5 fender washers on the outside of the frame, then welded the washers to the frame.
I'd cut the shaft hole with a hole saw (up to 1/2" oversize is OK, the stock hole needs to be enlarged for the Toy box anyhow) to make a clean job out of it, then put the mount with the box attached (don't forget to cut the 1/8" off the box under the shaft so the box and mount sits solid against the frame) in place and locate and then drill the three bolt holes. A set of transfer center punches makes it easy to locate the exact position of the drill holes and should be in everyone's tool box: Transfer Punch Set - 28 Piece , otherwise trace the mount on light card stock (a file folder or poster board works well) and cut it out. To find and punch out the 3 bolt holes in the pattern, tape or hold the pattern on the mount, then lightly tap on top the holes with the ball end of a small ball peen hammer until the holes cut thru, a perfect pattern! A PO had buggered up the mount holes in my frame, so I bolted the mount in place with thick grade 5 fender washers on the outside of the frame, then welded the washers to the frame.
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