rebuild time
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 723
Likes: 3
From: Cape Town, South Africa
You've certainly done your homework. 
Yes, your SCR will be in the 9.5 region, but more (or equally?) importantly, your DCR will be nice and high, but not too high.
Your cranking pressures will be healthy too.
Did you work out those numbers when you chose that cam ?
I hope the head assembler checked all the specs as thoroughly as you did with the ring gaps !!
Yes, your SCR will be in the 9.5 region, but more (or equally?) importantly, your DCR will be nice and high, but not too high.
Your cranking pressures will be healthy too.
Did you work out those numbers when you chose that cam ?
I hope the head assembler checked all the specs as thoroughly as you did with the ring gaps !!
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
i did my research and when i worked with Tim for parts i listened and took his advice so i would make sure things would work well together. The shop that rebuilt the heads has its hands in a little of every kind of engine, from tractors to race engines and i told them what i needed and they understood! so i am happy that i made it this far with so much help from everyone! i still have a long way to go!
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
I hope so!! I got my tractor engine fully rebuilt and had it running today, so 2 engines at the same time isn't to bad! Unfortunately life doesn't give me to much free time! Hahaha
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 723
Likes: 3
From: Cape Town, South Africa
No reason to be concerned with 0.011 below deck.
Now fit the remaining pistons and measure their deck numbers.
Once you have all 8 numbers, remove all 8 pistons, but number them 1 to 8 for re installation later.
You can then have the decks milled to give you EXACTLY zero clearances.
Trust no one, and oversee the milling machine setup and milling !
This is actually the correct way to build an engine although right now it probably seems like a nuisance.
You fitted the rings, checked them, removed them, filed them, fitted them, checked them.
It's the same principle with the pistons and deck clearances, except that you only mill and re fit once.
Ensure that the block is cleaned thoroughly once the milling is finished.
I don't think 0.011'' or thereabouts will cause issues with push rod lengths and intake manifold fitment, but double check with Tim.
Remove the crank and cam too before milling.
OR :
Accept the deck heights, and continue to build.
The engine would run fine, and you'd pass your exam. No distinction, and you'd know you cheated. LOL
By the way, is that the new spelling for 'USA' on that gauge ?
Now fit the remaining pistons and measure their deck numbers.
Once you have all 8 numbers, remove all 8 pistons, but number them 1 to 8 for re installation later.
You can then have the decks milled to give you EXACTLY zero clearances.
Trust no one, and oversee the milling machine setup and milling !
This is actually the correct way to build an engine although right now it probably seems like a nuisance.
You fitted the rings, checked them, removed them, filed them, fitted them, checked them.
It's the same principle with the pistons and deck clearances, except that you only mill and re fit once.
Ensure that the block is cleaned thoroughly once the milling is finished.
I don't think 0.011'' or thereabouts will cause issues with push rod lengths and intake manifold fitment, but double check with Tim.
Remove the crank and cam too before milling.
OR :
Accept the deck heights, and continue to build.
The engine would run fine, and you'd pass your exam. No distinction, and you'd know you cheated. LOL
By the way, is that the new spelling for 'USA' on that gauge ?
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
No reason to be concerned with 0.011 below deck.
Now fit the remaining pistons and measure their deck numbers.
Once you have all 8 numbers, remove all 8 pistons, but number them 1 to 8 for re installation later.
You can then have the decks milled to give you EXACTLY zero clearances.
Trust no one, and oversee the milling machine setup and milling !
This is actually the correct way to build an engine although right now it probably seems like a nuisance.
You fitted the rings, checked them, removed them, filed them, fitted them, checked them.
It's the same principle with the pistons and deck clearances, except that you only mill and re fit once.
Ensure that the block is cleaned thoroughly once the milling is finished.
I don't think 0.011'' or thereabouts will cause issues with push rod lengths and intake manifold fitment, but double check with Tim.
Remove the crank and cam too before milling.
OR :
Accept the deck heights, and continue to build.
The engine would run fine, and you'd pass your exam. No distinction, and you'd know you cheated. LOL
By the way, is that the new spelling for 'USA' on that gauge ?
Now fit the remaining pistons and measure their deck numbers.
Once you have all 8 numbers, remove all 8 pistons, but number them 1 to 8 for re installation later.
You can then have the decks milled to give you EXACTLY zero clearances.
Trust no one, and oversee the milling machine setup and milling !
This is actually the correct way to build an engine although right now it probably seems like a nuisance.
You fitted the rings, checked them, removed them, filed them, fitted them, checked them.
It's the same principle with the pistons and deck clearances, except that you only mill and re fit once.
Ensure that the block is cleaned thoroughly once the milling is finished.
I don't think 0.011'' or thereabouts will cause issues with push rod lengths and intake manifold fitment, but double check with Tim.
Remove the crank and cam too before milling.
OR :
Accept the deck heights, and continue to build.
The engine would run fine, and you'd pass your exam. No distinction, and you'd know you cheated. LOL
By the way, is that the new spelling for 'USA' on that gauge ?
I thought the new spelling was PROC.
it was a Meracle that I heard from Tim yesterday, he suggested that I just put it together and run it although the compression ratio is going to be a little bit lower in then 9 and a 1/2 to 1.
If that's the case then I will just put it together today after I get home from dropping my mom off the airport, it's a nice hour 1/2 drive 1 way to get to the airport
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 723
Likes: 3
From: Cape Town, South Africa
LOL, I now have a cartoon image in my head of a Chinese face with a really bad blond wig. 
Your SCR will be 9.2.
If you assemble the engine the way it is, I'll be the first to stop talking to you.
Rather do it properly !
Enjoy the cruise.
Your SCR will be 9.2.
If you assemble the engine the way it is, I'll be the first to stop talking to you.
Rather do it properly !
Enjoy the cruise.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
i got it taken care of, sorry for the late reply. it got really busy.... and i just graduated on the 11th.... so it was busy! i got it almost put together... and i just got my push rods from tim. and the last thing i needed was the last thing i needed! the oil pan and oil pump is on, i have perfect valve clearance, and the rocker arms are shimmed perfect middle to middle. and the rocker arms are on and ready and the roller tappits are soaking in oil so they will be ready!
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
so I'm open to suggestions from anyone that can help!
