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Boost leak testing confusion

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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 09:17 PM
  #16  
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This is one I took today (and I left the sound, so you can hear the truck getting it!). There's not as much variety in the stop and goes, just a heavy acceleration to build up boost. But I still didn't hit much higher than I did before the leak fixing. Which is surprising considering how bad the leaks were.

One other thing, what are the red and green tubes, and what are they for? I was getting some leaking from their area, and their rubber boots (the boots are partially disintegrated) but I don't know what they are to replace them.


 
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 08:16 AM
  #17  
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The red and green lines that attach to the sensor which is mounted on the spider control your waste gate. Many just eliminate that, others maintain it, your choice, like the EBPV.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 08:43 AM
  #18  
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I'd get rid of the "Intake" gauge on the left. That is doing the exact same job as the boost sensor on the right, but it includes your barometric pressure. That 240 PSI max is not gunna happen.

To fill that hole on the left, I would put your Exhaust Back Pressure gauge... this is helpful when sorting out boost questions. Max EBP range is 55 PSI (sensor limit). If you subtract the barometric pressure on the EBP gauge (for direct comparison with boost) then the max is 40 PSI. Max boost scale on a stock truck is 25 PSI (you won't see higher than 22 PSI).

WOT takes you into 3000 RPM territory... but I realize this scares people.

I thought I heard your cooling fan more than your engine. Was it engaged?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 02:49 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
I'd get rid of the "Intake" gauge on the left. That is doing the exact same job as the boost sensor on the right, but it includes your barometric pressure. That 240 PSI max is not gunna happen.

To fill that hole on the left, I would put your Exhaust Back Pressure gauge... this is helpful when sorting out boost questions. Max EBP range is 55 PSI (sensor limit). If you subtract the barometric pressure on the EBP gauge (for direct comparison with boost) then the max is 40 PSI. Max boost scale on a stock truck is 25 PSI (you won't see higher than 22 PSI).

WOT takes you into 3000 RPM territory... but I realize this scares people.

I thought I heard your cooling fan more than your engine. Was it engaged?


Yeah, I think you were hearing the cooling fan, (assuming you and I are hearing the same roaring sort of sound). it seems to be engaged either all the time, or most of the time. Just another thing that needs fixing. All repairs/upgrades that are non job threatening (I.e. I can still get to work, lol) have been put on the backburner for now, as we're trying to save money, and also speed up home repairs/improvements before our little one comes in October.


During normal driving, what kind of boost pressures should I be seeing if it's building boost correctly? I understand it's proportional to the rpms, so if I go WOT, I'll get more (most I can get seems to be 12ish) but without wailing on it, should I still be in that 12ish range?

I've got a couple more leaks to fix, then hopefully I'm done with em, and I need to replace the impeller (actually have one sitting here waiting on me to do it).
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 07:16 AM
  #20  
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Stock tune, injectors, turbo, and no other mods - about 17-18 PSI max at WOT in the upper RPMs (well above 2000 RPM).
 
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