Brake booster help
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
Yeah I got distracted re-doing the interior of my Mustang. Time to get back to the '56!
Just got a nice long list of "this connects to that which connects to that and that to this" slowing things up.
Just got a nice long list of "this connects to that which connects to that and that to this" slowing things up.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
I have my my new MC all mounted. I'll be able to use the original pedal which will make everything easier. Now I need to make up new steel lines.
No more pictures from me until I figger out how to use a different photo hosting service.
I'm done with Photobucket.....
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
Yeah... new seats, steering wheel, horn, wiring (which was a pure mess), sequential turn signals, fog lights, rocker panel trim, badge trim and building a new center console. And then it's suddenly September and I realize I haven't done anything to my truck!
I'm in the process of mounting everything now. Course I just had to put that engine and transmission in so it's a bit more interesting for room lol.
Which way did you go to connect the rod from the brake booster to the pedal? Mine has the hole for the pin about an eight inch larger than the original pin was for the brake pedal. The other hole on the pedal doesn't have a lot of spare metal to widen the hole. I've made a solid rivet, peened it in the brake booster's rod, and am in the process of drilling out the hole (need a new bit, just working on it 10 minutes ago and it's a 0.45" hole ). I thought about threading the old rod with the new one since they are both 3/8" which would give me a little room to adjust the pedal to sit a little lower as my boot tends to catch it. But I don't know if that would be worth the effort or cause a bit of a weak spot.
I'm in the process of mounting everything now. Course I just had to put that engine and transmission in so it's a bit more interesting for room lol.
Which way did you go to connect the rod from the brake booster to the pedal? Mine has the hole for the pin about an eight inch larger than the original pin was for the brake pedal. The other hole on the pedal doesn't have a lot of spare metal to widen the hole. I've made a solid rivet, peened it in the brake booster's rod, and am in the process of drilling out the hole (need a new bit, just working on it 10 minutes ago and it's a 0.45" hole ). I thought about threading the old rod with the new one since they are both 3/8" which would give me a little room to adjust the pedal to sit a little lower as my boot tends to catch it. But I don't know if that would be worth the effort or cause a bit of a weak spot.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
I think the best way is to cut off the end of the rod on the booster and thread it about 2 inches.
Then use a rod-end at the pedal side with left hand threads.
Summit has left and right threaded weldable tube ends like this
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mez-re1013b
Then just use structural steel tubing the right length. That way you can use lock nuts and make easy adjustments by turning the tube as required.
Then use a rod-end at the pedal side with left hand threads.
Summit has left and right threaded weldable tube ends like this
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mez-re1013b
Then just use structural steel tubing the right length. That way you can use lock nuts and make easy adjustments by turning the tube as required.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
I like that idea.
Tried it a bit today, thinking about using a coupler, I'd have to pull the pin to turn and adjust the length but I don't see any difference other than that.
After threading one side and testing the fitment under the cab I don't think I'll want the rod much longer than what came on the booster. Reason being is the placement of the hole needed for the master cylinder cap. Right now I will be able to access it from a spot in the cab under the seat that you can't see unless you go looking for it, but is easy to get to. If the rod is an inch or two longer it will be a lot more difficult to access the master cylinder to fill. Unless it's way longer and behind the seat.
From what I saw on the underside the full motion of the pedal at the place where the booster will connect is about 2". Putting the pedal where I want it makes it just shy of 5/8" of that travel. So... if the new booster needs less than 1 3/8" of travel to fully use I can lower my brake pedal where I want it.
Tried it a bit today, thinking about using a coupler, I'd have to pull the pin to turn and adjust the length but I don't see any difference other than that.
After threading one side and testing the fitment under the cab I don't think I'll want the rod much longer than what came on the booster. Reason being is the placement of the hole needed for the master cylinder cap. Right now I will be able to access it from a spot in the cab under the seat that you can't see unless you go looking for it, but is easy to get to. If the rod is an inch or two longer it will be a lot more difficult to access the master cylinder to fill. Unless it's way longer and behind the seat.
From what I saw on the underside the full motion of the pedal at the place where the booster will connect is about 2". Putting the pedal where I want it makes it just shy of 5/8" of that travel. So... if the new booster needs less than 1 3/8" of travel to fully use I can lower my brake pedal where I want it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
Yeah. I am going to have mine pretty much under the seat. I will have to make it so I can easily tilt the seat or somthing so I can service it.
Evidently these hydraulic booster work very well with the drum brakes on an older medium duty truck like ours....Problem is, you have to have a hydraulic power source. I have one and would like to do power steering too. But if I cannot, I'll still use the PS pump for the brakes.
Evidently these hydraulic booster work very well with the drum brakes on an older medium duty truck like ours....Problem is, you have to have a hydraulic power source. I have one and would like to do power steering too. But if I cannot, I'll still use the PS pump for the brakes.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
So what size tubing did you guys use?
On my F600 looks like I have 1/4" lines stock. The hydrobooster in and are 3/8" tubes (measured outside with a caliper).
I'm guessing I need high-pressure lines between the hydrobooster and the pump, but since I'm not running power steering yet I need to connect that line to the return. Problem I'm seeing is that the line that runs to the powersteering is high-pressure, the line that returns to the tank is low pressure. Guessing running it through a cooler first?
Or a reservoir like this one?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...10sb/overview/
On my F600 looks like I have 1/4" lines stock. The hydrobooster in and are 3/8" tubes (measured outside with a caliper).
I'm guessing I need high-pressure lines between the hydrobooster and the pump, but since I'm not running power steering yet I need to connect that line to the return. Problem I'm seeing is that the line that runs to the powersteering is high-pressure, the line that returns to the tank is low pressure. Guessing running it through a cooler first?
Or a reservoir like this one?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...10sb/overview/
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 555
Likes: 5
From: Marysville, WA
I don't know how I missed this whole thread!
I actually ordered a used hydroboost earlier this year around May and it came all bent up shipped in a bubble wrap bag...ended up with a new one from rockauto
I think you will need to run all three lines on the hydroboost, bad things might happen if you block off the high pressure out line and just try to run the return? You could run the high pressure one to an oil cooler then your reservoir and the return straight to your reservoir?
I actually ordered a used hydroboost earlier this year around May and it came all bent up shipped in a bubble wrap bag...ended up with a new one from rockauto
I think you will need to run all three lines on the hydroboost, bad things might happen if you block off the high pressure out line and just try to run the return? You could run the high pressure one to an oil cooler then your reservoir and the return straight to your reservoir?
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
From what I've come across all 3 lines have to go somewhere. The solution I've come across from a few other people that have done it is to run the high-pressure line for the steering to a reservoir that the low pressure return also goes to, and then from the reservoir back to an optional cooler and then the pump. The high pressure and low pressure lines cannot be joined together, but they both must end up at the reservoir.
This would make it easier too when I do add Powersteering. I'm waiting right now since the new axles will change how the steering works, so no sense getting too crazy before then.
And from what I read you cannot just plug the line, it has to return to work, I believe it's actually the constant running line and the low pressure one is excess return (don't quote me on that just yet).
Did you mount yours to the firewall or under the cab?
This would make it easier too when I do add Powersteering. I'm waiting right now since the new axles will change how the steering works, so no sense getting too crazy before then.
And from what I read you cannot just plug the line, it has to return to work, I believe it's actually the constant running line and the low pressure one is excess return (don't quote me on that just yet).
Did you mount yours to the firewall or under the cab?
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 555
Likes: 5
From: Marysville, WA
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
Oh awesome! Can't believe I missed that one. Nice and clean with the hydraulic clutch too.
Man, I really wish I could work on mine from that angle. Granted I can sit under mine easy enough but it sure gets old working back and forth at just the underside.
Man, I really wish I could work on mine from that angle. Granted I can sit under mine easy enough but it sure gets old working back and forth at just the underside.
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