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Hey, I am new to these older trucks and have never worked with a flathead before. I picked up a 1947 Ford Heavy Duty, was told it is a 2 1/2 ton, the leaf spring packs on this truck are massive, and the previous owner said that the valves were stuck. He had a battery and was able to get the engine to bump over, but didn't try cranking it. I was told the easiest way to unstick the valves is to pull the heads and pour some 5W20 down the cylinders. How do I know if the valves are unstuck though? I was told the truck was parked about 10 years prior and they would go out and fire it up until about 3 years ago the battery died and they let it sit since. The only reason they were selling is they could take the truck to their new place of residence. Also while I have the heads removed is there anything else I should be looking for? I know the motor is an 8BA, was told its a 255ci out of a Mercury instead of a 239ci Ford, and that I have to measure the strike to know for sure. Any help is appreciated because all the videos I've been able to find have been next to useless.
Welcome aboard. If it was my engine I'd use Marvel Mystery Oil to try to unstick the valves. Pull the heads and manifold and let the MMO do its thing for a week or so and then try to turn the engine by hand. Don't try to force it. Once you get the engine to spin freely you can measure the stroke to see if its a 4" or 3.75" bore. Hopefully the engine has a truck pan so you can pull the clean out plate so you can clean the oil pump screen prior to attempting to start the engine. If it doesn't have the clean out plate pull the pan. JMO.
Welcome aboard. If it was my engine I'd use Marvel Mystery Oil to try to unstick the valves. Pull the heads and manifold and let the MMO do its thing for a week or so and then try to turn the engine by hand. Don't try to force it. Once you get the engine to spin freely you can measure the stroke to see if its a 4" or 3.75" bore. Hopefully the engine has a truck pan so you can pull the clean out plate so you can clean the oil pump screen prior to attempting to start the engine. If it doesn't have the clean out plate pull the pan. JMO.
MMO has worked for me too. Do all of the above it possible. Good luck and welcome.
Hey,
Just keep in mind, that un-sticking the flathead so it rotates over is different then "unsticking" the valves. You may be able to get the engine to rotate fine, but the valves may still stick in the open position once opened by the cam. This was the problem I ran into with my engine. I used a combination of MMO/Acetone to get the engine unstuck, then rotated it to identify the valves that were sticking once the heads were removed. Over the corse of a couple days I would rotate it with the hand crank and continue to spray the valve stems / guides. When one of the valves would stick, I could usually lightly tap it with a very small dead-blow, usually just the weight of the hammer dropping from 3 inches or so was enough to get it to move (LIGHTLY TAP IT!!!). After a couple of days letting it sit, then rotating, the valves all freed-up. I ended up disassembling the valve-train and putting all new valves, springs, keepers, guides.. in so I have no idea how it would have run, but all the valves were freed up and returned to their seats once loose.
Pretty much what they all said, and congratulations on your find and welcome to the madness. Two speed axle? Brake booster? If so it's most likely a 2 ton, rather than a 1 1/2 ton. We have seen some 3 tons but quite unusual. Please keep us filled in on your progress.
I don't know where it's a 2 ton or a 3 ton, it does have a two speed rear end. As for the motor it does turn over by hand (with a prybar) but he warned that the valves may be stuck open. I won't know until I pull the heads. As for the 2 ton vs 3 ton, how would you tell the difference? Also I am only able to work on the truck for a weekend at a time and very few weekends back to back, will this be a problem in unsticking the valves? Also below is what the truck looked like before the previous owner got his hands on it and the second is as it sat last time I was able to get up north. I have a 1937 cab that is going on the truck and am getting the Chevy wrecker to put parts on the bed.
If the engine turns over, it would seem to me that one could remove all of the spark plugs and do a compression test. You could do this before pulling the heads. Any cylinders with no compression could indicate a valve is stuck. I would put Marvel oil in each cylinder to lubricate the piston rings. Initial testing for compression could be as easy as putting your finger in the spark plug hole and see if it gets pushed away by compression when the engine is turned. You can follow up with a compression gauge. Who knows?? You might not have to pull the heads.
Rickster makes a good point. AND,,, That is an awesome wrecker body. I sold my '37 1 1/2 ton about 2 1/2 years ago, just coming out of that recession. I always have a lot of ford trucks, but 2007-2015 cleared the lot pretty well. Can't wait to see the finished product. Did I tell you how cool the wrecker body is???
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