1988 E350 7.5L Wont Start
#31
Thank you for all this info.
I have done timing only once before, but that was without replacing the distributor.
How do I find the compression stroke?
The SPOUT... Is that the grey module connected to distributor? - So, I have to disconnect this, connect to No.1 wire and turn her over to time?
There aren't any marks anywhere.... which is the balancer plate and how to I find center before marking it?
Thanks again for your help and patience
I have done timing only once before, but that was without replacing the distributor.
How do I find the compression stroke?
The SPOUT... Is that the grey module connected to distributor? - So, I have to disconnect this, connect to No.1 wire and turn her over to time?
There aren't any marks anywhere.... which is the balancer plate and how to I find center before marking it?
Thanks again for your help and patience
#32
To find TDC on compression stroke, you either have to remove the valve cover and watch the rockers, with the spark plug out...or feel for the compression stroke with your finger over the spark plug hole. After the intake rocker closes, TDC on compression stroke is when the piston reaches the top of its stroke (you have to make sure you are turning the engine the direction that it runs).
You can also do it without removing the valve cover, by feeling when the piston is pushing the air out and reaches the top, but it's less of a sure fire method.
You can also do it without removing the valve cover, by feeling when the piston is pushing the air out and reaches the top, but it's less of a sure fire method.
#34
When you are confirmed at TDC compression stroke on your #1 piston, take the opportunity to mark the plate and balancer, they should be aligned up.
The timing indicator plate is usually visible from the front passenger side of the engine compartment. About a 4" plate, just hanging over the balancer wheel a 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
The timing indicator plate is usually visible from the front passenger side of the engine compartment. About a 4" plate, just hanging over the balancer wheel a 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
#36
No, not the "grey module connected to distributor"
Google this; Spout connector 1988 econoline
https://www.google.com/search?q=1988...pout+connector
You will get a good idea of what the connector looks like. It's basically a shorting plug in a socket.
Google this; Spout connector 1988 econoline
https://www.google.com/search?q=1988...pout+connector
You will get a good idea of what the connector looks like. It's basically a shorting plug in a socket.
#37
I always liked to use the old Testors model paint and brush to put a nice white line on the mark.
The balancer may have 3 areas that look like marks, but only one of them is the TDC mark.
#39
Oh Wow ......... That's a lot of helpful information. Thank you guys so much.
So, The truck runs.... as it happens, the booster fuel pump on rails was failing - although new.
Yes, the timing was out by 3 teeth and you guys were spot on!! Thanks.
Problem I am having is when the truck runs, it will shut off because the PNK BLK & ORG WHT wires are heating up excessively. These are the very wires that go to the inertia switch which I bypassed (it was burnt).
I have replaced all the 5 wires that were melted all the way to the radio area.
I followed both wires to engine and cant seem to find the problem.
PNK BLK loops near driver side battery and then disappears
ORG WHT I found near passenger side firewall - close to the WHT RED wire that was shorting against the firewall.
I am at a loss and feel bad for my dad (75) who was really excited to hit the roads with this motorhome....
Not sure if you guys have come across this kind of problem... could it be something else making those two wires heat up?
Thanks for the help in advance and I really appreciate the time you have taken to guide me through this project.
So, The truck runs.... as it happens, the booster fuel pump on rails was failing - although new.
Yes, the timing was out by 3 teeth and you guys were spot on!! Thanks.
Problem I am having is when the truck runs, it will shut off because the PNK BLK & ORG WHT wires are heating up excessively. These are the very wires that go to the inertia switch which I bypassed (it was burnt).
I have replaced all the 5 wires that were melted all the way to the radio area.
I followed both wires to engine and cant seem to find the problem.
PNK BLK loops near driver side battery and then disappears
ORG WHT I found near passenger side firewall - close to the WHT RED wire that was shorting against the firewall.
I am at a loss and feel bad for my dad (75) who was really excited to hit the roads with this motorhome....
Not sure if you guys have come across this kind of problem... could it be something else making those two wires heat up?
Thanks for the help in advance and I really appreciate the time you have taken to guide me through this project.
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